Installing a sewer system in a country house by hand. How to make a sewer system in a country house. A more complicated option - installing a septic tank

This type of waste disposal consists of several components.

1. In the first compartment, heavy particles settle and the process of anaerobic oxidation of contaminants occurs. When enough large quantities The wastewater drainage role is performed by 2 tanks connected to each other by an overflow system.
2. Partially clarified water enters the soil filtration stage, which, depending on the type of soil and the level of occurrence groundwater can be presented in the form of a filtration well, filtration or absorption fields. Here, the remaining pollutants are retained in the filter layer, for example, crushed stone, and undergo further decomposition. Purified water goes into the ground.

There are ready-made models on the market, but you can also make a septic tank yourself. Most often used for this purpose:

• concrete rings;
• welded metal containers;
• Eurocubes or other sealed plastic containers.

Each of these types of septic tanks has its own installation features. In general, installation includes the following steps:

• digging a pit that exceeds the dimensions of the containers by 30-50 cm in length and width;
• leveling the bottom and filling a sand cushion 15 mm thick;
• for concrete and light plastic tanks– pouring the concrete base;
• installation of the container or its elements;
• connection to the supply and discharge pipes;
• arrangement of soil tertiary treatment;
• installation of hatches;
• backfilling.

To prevent the spread of stench from the septic tank and improve the cleaning process, it is recommended to add biological products to the tanks. About once a year you will need to hire a sewer truck to pump out the sludge from the septic tank.

These are the most modern and efficient systems. The degree of water purification in them is almost 100%. Water from the stations can be used for irrigation and other technical needs, or discharged onto the terrain or reservoir without damage to environment. Their distinctive feature is the presence of a compressor that pumps air, in the presence of which special microorganisms completely decompose pollutants.

The disadvantage of the system is cost and energy dependence.

You can set up an aeration station yourself, but it is better to purchase ready-made equipment in the form plastic container with compressor. There are many options available.

You can install them yourself. Installation is described in the instructions for the device and differs from installing a simple septic tank in that it is connected to the electrical network and there is no need to arrange soil treatment.

Note! To exit to effective cleaning happened faster, you need to add special river silt or crushed food products at the very beginning.

To maintain the station, you will need to call a machine once a year to pump out sludge and sediment from the sedimentation tank, or do it yourself.

Thus, to provide high-quality sewerage in country house It’s quite possible to do it on your own. The main thing is to draw up a detailed diagram and take into account all the nuances.

Video - Do-it-yourself sewerage at the dacha

The sewage system in the country can be made from barrels, concrete rings or other suitable containers. Often a cesspool is sufficient to collect wastewater, but when permanent residence It is better to install a septic tank in the house with the ability to pump out waste.

A dry toilet for a summer residence can be made either in the form of a separate portable toilet with a container, or in the form of a separate building.

Types of sewerage for a summer residence

On summer cottages They make 2 types of sewerage. The first option is the organization of a place for collecting pollutants, without a wastewater treatment system. The second type is a reservoir to which sewer pipes. They are laid from the house or other outbuildings.

A pit with a cushion of crushed stone can be made on your own in 1-2 days, but it is better to entrust the construction of the second type of sewage system construction company. Such a sewerage system will be installed automatic systems filters, they are configured by specialists.

Installation of a dry toilet

This is a simple solution, but it is a temporary measure. Then you still have to think about where to drain wastewater from the shower or kitchen. Summer residents should be prepared for the fact that the presence of a dry closet does not exclude the appearance of unpleasant odors in the area.

Cesspool system

A cesspool in a country house is not the best good decision for sewerage installation.

20 years ago this was the most common solution, but now there are more effective wastewater treatment systems. The only advantage of a cesspool is that its construction does not require any costs.

The disadvantages of this solution are:

• unpleasant odors near the toilet;
• Soil pollution;
• water consumption will be limited.

Considering the disadvantages, such a septic tank is worth making if there is no running water in a private house. A cesspool should not be dug in places where it can be flooded by groundwater. It should not be built in areas with clay soil.

Application of storage tank

This type of local sewer can be considered a modification of a cesspool. The difference between this system is the presence of a sealed container, so the soil on the site is not contaminated. But the tank fills up quickly, so waste has to be pumped out frequently.

Storage containers are available for sale different volumes and structures, they are placed underground or on the surface. If necessary, storm sewerage is connected to them.

When using a storage tank, you need to take into account the disadvantages inherent in this system. This is the need for constant monitoring of water consumption, the cost of operating vacuum cleaners that will pump out waste.

The scope of application of this type of autonomous sewage system is limited to a small country house not connected to a water supply. Storage containers installed in construction camps and other places of temporary residence.

The storage tank is most often made in the form of a serviced septic tank made of concrete rings.

Natural cleaning system based on a septic tank

The design has from 2 to 4 sections. The more there are, the better the wastewater is purified. The output is connected to the drainage system. Already on sale ready-made designs. The main advantages of such a sewer system: ease of implementation, low cost, no need to connect an external power source.

Other advantages include the fact that bad smell absent, the soil on the site is not contaminated.

The system has the following disadvantages:

1. The system should not be overloaded as this may cause an unpleasant odor.
2. Mechanical cleaners require periodic inspections. The inspection will determine whether the tanks and drainage system need to be cleaned. Frequency preventive measures– 1 time per year.

Septic tanks are installed in private houses with low or medium levels of wastewater.

Biological treatment method

The biological station runs on electricity. It resembles a septic tank in appearance, but differs from it in the presence of a biofilter. A pump is also installed, this allows purified water to be drained.

SNiP standards allow that such a septic tank can be installed near a residential building. The filter removes 98% of pollutants, and no unpleasant odors appear during system operation. The volume of non-degradable waste is minimal, so it rarely needs to be pumped out.

The only drawback of such systems is their high cost. But you can save money by making such a sewer system for several houses at once.

The optimal location of the septic tank is selected in advance, taking into account the dimensions of the product and the parameters of the site.

There are several factors that influence the location of the septic tank:

• terrain slope;
• depth of groundwater;
• the distance to which the soil freezes in winter;
• the presence of a nearby source of water or running water;
• soil composition.

When installing a septic tank, pay attention to the distance from the house; it must be at least 5 m. There should not be a well or well next to the collector, they must be at least 30 m away. Trees and other plantings must be 3 m away. Place for the tank chosen so that a sewage truck can drive up to it.

Work on the installation of internal sewerage

Work on sewerage installation begins after creating a drawing and purchasing materials. First, install the central riser. Cast iron pipes or PVC or ceramic products are suitable for this purpose; their diameter should be about 110 mm. To ensure good traction, the riser is placed in the attic or raised above the roof.

PVC products have an affordable price. They are not afraid of corrosion and do not overgrow from the inside. Smooth inner part ensures free movement of waste. Cast iron is reliable and durable material, but the pipeline made from it is heavy and difficult to install.

The cost of such products is much higher than the cost of plastic. Ceramic risers occupy a leading position in their characteristics, but are expensive.

The main riser is installed at a distance of 4 m from the windows, after which the pipeline is routed horizontally. There is no need to suddenly change its direction, this makes it difficult for wastewater to move. If you need to rotate it 90 degrees, it is better to rotate it 2 times by 45 degrees. A hole is left in advance in the foundation of the house for it. The sink and bathtub are connected to the sewer using a tube with a diameter of 50 mm.

The common pipeline is made at an angle, this ensures the movement of water in the desired direction. A check valve is mounted at the outlet; it prevents waste from flowing back.

Septic tank installation

Example of a septic tank with biological treatment in the country.

There are septic tanks different designs. Containers are made of plastic, reinforced concrete, brick, metal.

According to the method of waste treatment, all systems can be divided into the following:

• with biological treatment;
• requiring pumping with a sewer truck;
• Wastewater is filtered through the soil.

The last option is cheap, so it is widely used in dachas.

Two-chamber septic tank

A collector of 2 sections connected by an overflow pipe is considered the most convenient. It's easy to build with your own hands.

First taking into account sanitary requirements choose a place on the site, make a pit 3 m deep. A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit; its thickness should be at least 15 cm. After this, formwork is installed and reinforced with reinforcement. To do this, metal rods are used and they are tied together with wire.

2 holes are made in the formwork in advance, pipe cuttings are inserted into them. These entrances are needed for the organization of an overflow system and a sewerage entrance. Concrete is poured into the formwork and compacted using a vibrating tool. Filling is carried out at once; this approach allows you to make the septic tank monolithic.

The bottom of the first section is filled with concrete mortar; after it dries, a sealed compartment is obtained. Here the wastewater will be separated into fractions and settled. Large inclusions will settle to the bottom, and the clarified water will flow through the pipe into the adjacent section. In order for solid residues to decompose better, anaerobic bacteria populate the first compartment.

When building the second section, the bottom is not made, but a thick cushion of crushed stone and sand is poured. It will serve as a filter. The tank is constructed from reinforced concrete rings stacked on top of each other, or erected monolithic structure. The overflow pipe is installed between the 2 sections; it must be laid at an angle. Be sure to make a hatch and an exhaust hood, and cover the septic tank with a slab on top.

You can build not 2, but 4 reservoirs, then the water will be purified better. Such a septic tank will have to be cleaned once every 2 years.

Laying the external main

From the house to the septic tank there must be a slight slope of the sewer pipe. If it cannot be laid below the freezing level of the soil, the main line is made higher, but protected with thermal insulation.

To prevent it from moving, it is placed on a sand cushion. This is what they do when they are working on building a pit or septic tank. sand cushion be sure to compact it. After the septic tank is installed, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with a layer of earth.

Septic tank without pumping

This is a simple version of the sewer system; it consists of several settling tanks. The first tank is made the largest, the next ones are smaller.

If the septic tank is three-chamber, then the first 2 compartments must be sealed. In the last chamber, holes are made in the walls or filter materials are poured onto the bottom. Through them, purified water goes into the ground.

A septic tank without pumping at a dacha consists of 2 or 3 containers connected to each other.

Sizing

The size of the septic tank can be determined by the formula: V=n*Q*3/1000, where the number of residents is determined by the letter n, V is the total volume of the tank, Q is how much water 1 person spends per day. Number 3 is taken from SNiP. It shows how many days it takes to clean the wastewater.

Most often, a collector is made 3 m deep and 2 m wide. There must be at least 0.8 m from the bottom to the pipe through which the drain is carried out.

Treatment systems

The advantages of such a sewage system include the fact that anaerobic bacteria process waste. To speed up the process, they can be fed with oxygen.

Sludge accumulates at the bottom of the container. Over time, it becomes compacted, as a result it rises up to the overflow point. In this case, the septic tank must be cleaned. If the sewer is equipped with a pump for pumping out waste, which is powered by electricity, the process is carried out automatically.

Septic tank diagram with drainage well for the cottage and home.

Installation of a finished septic tank

Available for sale ready-made septic tanks. Their installation begins with digging a pit. It should be 20-30 cm wider than the container purchased in the store. If the soil is not heaving, the bottom of the hole does not need to be reinforced, but you still need to add a sand cushion.

After this, the septic tank is carefully lowered into the hole and connected to communications. If the purification system will be powered by electricity, it is necessary to ensure that the devices are above the ground after the tank is buried. If you neglect this rule, in the spring meltwater will flood the equipment, which will disable it.

The electrical cable from the cleaning system, powered by electricity, is routed to a separate machine from the panel. A corrugation is put on the wire and then placed in a trench next to the sewer pipe. The cable is connected to the septic tank through terminals.

Sewage system made of concrete rings

A septic tank is made from concrete rings if the finished plastic tank does not fit in size. Construction works It will be easier to do it together, so it’s worth calling an assistant.

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

The advantages of the system include the fact that concrete rings are cheap and can be purchased by the general population. During construction, no drawing is required; you do not have to contact a specialized company.

But there are also disadvantages. For example, no matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to make the septic tank airtight, so unpleasant odors will be felt near it.

You will also have to periodically hire vacuum cleaners to pump out the accumulated waste.

Scheme and calculations

An example of a septic tank layout at a summer cottage.

A septic tank is made of several rings, they are installed on top of each other. The treatment scheme may include 1 or 2 chambers. For a summer residence, you can choose a simple option from a sump, which is supplemented with a well for filtration.

When performing calculations, SNiP is taken into account. Based on the number of people living in the house, determine the required volume of the sump. It should be able to accommodate waste waste for 3 days.

Before installing concrete rings, a pit is dug. A septic tank and a well for filtration must fit freely into it. Sand is poured into the bottom of the hole and compacted. The result should be a pillow with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm.

The bottom of the pit is concreted. If this is not possible, you can purchase 1 concrete ring with a solid bottom. During installation, it is placed first on a sand bed.

Installation of rings

To install reinforced concrete rings you will need special equipment. They are fixed together with staples; instead of them, metal plates can also be used. Additionally, all parts are fastened together with concrete mortar.

After installation is completed, an overflow is made, and sewer pipes are connected to the concrete rings.

Sealing

To do reliable waterproofing, the solution must have a water barrier. The outside of the collector is covered with coating materials, but they can be replaced with built-up ones.

Plastic cylinders can be placed inside the concrete rings. This will reduce the likelihood of leakage to a minimum.

Installation of septic tank rings using special equipment.

Installation of floors and backfilling

The reinforced concrete rings are covered on top with a concrete slab in which a hole is made for sewer hatch. Fill the septic tank with soil mixed with sand. When the work is completed, the sewer can be put into operation.

Device for cleaning waste from barrels

The collector can be made from barrels. The principle of its operation is identical to the functioning treatment facilities built from reinforced concrete rings. The filtration system may have several chambers.

Barrel selection

In order to build autonomous sewerage, you can use plastic or metal barrels. They don't have to be new. It is acceptable to purchase old containers, but they must be intact.

Before being immersed in a pit, metal barrels must be treated on both sides with an anti-corrosion compound. Plastic containers this is not required, so they are most often used.

If you compare such barrels with those made of metal, plastic ones have the following advantages:

1. You can choose containers of different volumes and sizes.
2. Plastic products last longer. They are not afraid of the aggressive environment represented by sewage.
3. Low weight, which ensures ease of installation. All work can be done on your own; you don’t have to hire special equipment.

Plastic barrels do not need to be treated with an anti-corrosion compound. The products are highly impermeable, so you don’t have to worry about the soil being contaminated with wastewater.

To plastic septic tank not squeezed out in the cold winter or during a flood in the spring, the barrels are fixed to concrete base using a cable. To prevent the plastic from cracking, you need to act carefully when filling the collector with earth.

Materials and tools

To make a cleaning system, you need to purchase 2 plastic barrels of 220 liters each, geotextiles. You will need a sewer pipe and 4 tees for sewerage.

To dig a pit you need a hole, and to level the ground you need a rake. In order to quickly cut products, you need a jigsaw.

Plastic barrels for a small septic tank in the country.

Features of installation of plastic containers

Plastic barrels are placed on concrete slab, and then attached to it with cables. The holes for the ventilation riser and the overflow pipe are made using a jigsaw.

You will need to make 2 more holes. The first is necessary to connect the sewer. It is cut through at a distance of 20 cm from the upper border of the tank. The second hole is made with opposite side, 10 cm below the entrance.

The ventilation riser is made only in the sump; it is not needed in the second section. The same tank must be equipped with a lid, this will allow you to quickly clean the bottom of the collector from accumulated waste.

In the second section, 2 holes are made and connected to them drainage pipes. The joints need to be filled with sealant; two-component epoxy is best suited for this purpose.

Features of installing metal barrels

When installing metal barrels, the procedure is almost the same, only to connect the barrels to each other you will need welding machine. To make the product more durable, stiffeners are made. Without them, the tank may deform under the weight of the earth poured on top.

If the soil is heaving, anchor the barrels. To do this, they are attached with cables to a concrete base. To a tank made of metal barrels, can be attached plastic pipes. But all seams should be coated with sealant. Before covering the collector with earth, all metal parts are coated with bitumen. This will protect the tank from corrosion.

A house with a plot outside the city, where you can get away from the bustle and dust of the city, has today become not only a sign of prosperity, but also practically a necessity. Someone here breathes plenty of fresh air and finds rest after the everyday bustle of the city, someone is engaged in gardening and gardening, but literally everyone is faced with one problem, the solution of which determines the comfort of living in the country.

What has become an almost obligatory attribute of civilized life in the city is often completely absent in dacha conditions. This is sewerage, without which other taken-for-granted amenities are impossible. Therefore, having become the owner suburban area, a newly-minted summer resident most often thinks about the speedy creation of city amenities for everyone, and especially sewerage for the summer house. Moreover, if earlier many were content with primitive houses with a cesspool, hidden in a secluded corner of the garden, today it is no longer possible to do without more advanced, and most importantly, durable and safe structures.

Components of country sewerage

However, if a city dweller thinks little about installing a sewer network outside his apartment, then when arranging a sewer system in his country house, he has to deal not only with plumbing devices and internal communications, but also remember everyone components systems:

• About plumbing fixtures, risers and pipes inside the building that make up the system internal sewerage;
• About the pipe system located outside the house;
• About places of settling or purification of all waste leaving the house and collected from the site.

And if internal system similar to the one in the apartments, then the remaining two parts country sewerage differ significantly from the components of the central city and can be implemented using different methods.

Sewage scheme at the dacha

Therefore, before you start creating a sewer system in your dacha with your own hands, you need to determine the requirements for the system and, based on them, and develop a diagram of its main objects. The decisive factors here are the location of the house, the wishes of the owner of the site and the list of plumbing equipment used.

It is optimal if all the equipment that requires draining is tied to one common pipe that directs waste to a special place where the waste will either be simply collected or settled and cleaned.

If wastewater flows through different pipes, for example, if rainwater collection channels are connected to the system from different buildings or to the system, then maintenance of such sewerage can become more complicated, and sometimes require the installation of several containers for waste disposal.

In areas where winter period negative temperatures prevail, this feature must be taken into account, which affects not only the comfortable use of sewerage in the country at any time of the year, but also the safety of the pipes running under the ground and leaving the house. If the site is supposed to create a simple sewer system using a cesspool, then the groundwater level should not be lower than two meters, that is, the depth of the pit itself.

Internal sewage system for a summer residence

Internal piping in country house is planned based on the needs of residents and available equipment, and the sewer pipe is discharged through the external wall of the building or the foundation below the floor level. In this case, it is important to provide for a sufficient slope of the pipe, at which the drain inside the house is guaranteed to be higher than the level of wastewater in the cesspool or septic tank.

External sewerage pipe system

The external system is a network of pipes transporting wastewater from the collection point, be it in-house equipment, drainage channels or wells for rainwater, with a place for treatment or storage of waste. Today, traditional cast iron pipes or more modern plastic products are used for these purposes. Cast iron pipes require careful sealing, and the joints in this case are treated with a resin composition and cement mortar. Plastic pipes do not require such work.

When making a sewer system in a country house, it is important to ensure that the sewer pipes have such a slope so that wastewater can flow by gravity to a cesspool or septic tank. As a rule, this angle of inclination of the pipe is at least two centimeters for every meter of pipe laid in the trench. The depth of the trench is made at least a meter, and the width, so that the work can be carried out conveniently, is at least half a meter.

In this case, all pipes falling into the soil freezing zone must be insulated using mineral wool, heat-insulating sleeves or foam polymer material, expanded clay or foam. As a rule, all areas located above 30 cm from the soil level, as well as outlets from the house, are subject to insulation.

Near the exit point of the sewer pipe, a ventilation duct, preventing the spread of unpleasant odors in the local area.

Waste discharge location

If a centralized network is laid outside the site sewer network, then the summer resident should only organize the delivery of waste to a common pipe. There is no need to accumulate or clean them.

If there is no centralized sewage system nearby, then all problems fall on the shoulders of the owner of the site, and only he will have to take care of waste disposal. And for this you need to decide which design to choose: the simplest cesspool-storage or modern, but more expensive.

Sewerage in old traditions

What could be simpler than a cesspool?
This is probably the cheapest and easiest way to collect sewage waste. The design of the pit is simple, which allows you to build it without the help of specialists. However, before starting earthworks, you will need to find out the required volume of the structure. This can be done based on the average volume per inhabitant of the house, which is from 0.5 to 0.7 cubic meters of liquid.

When the volume is known, you can proceed to determining the location of the future waste storage facility. And since wastewater is not a very pleasant and useful neighborhood, a hole is dug taking into account the following rules:

• The minimum depth of the pit should not be less than two meters, which means that groundwater should not come closer to the surface of the soil even during the period of spring snow melting;
• The minimum distance from buildings is also determined - a distance of 5 meters is considered comfortable and safe;
• If the owners of the site use a water source located here, then the waste storage location should not be closer than 30 meters from the well or well;
• The presence of a cesspool presupposes the presence of free access for a vehicle that collects accumulated waste;
• If the site is located on rough terrain, then the cesspool is organized exclusively in the lowland.

The cesspool itself can be made of concrete rings or tires, lined with bricks or blocks, and the joints and bottom are waterproofed to prevent contaminated water from penetrating into the soil.

The sewerage system is equipped with a ventilation riser, and the hatch covering the pit must be designed in such a way that pumping out waste does not pose a problem. Sewage for a short-term residence can be done without a permanent drainage pit. If the site is intended for infrequent visits, then it is enough to place a sealed container with a volume of up to 2 cubic meters in the pit and connect a sewer pipe from the house to it.

Despite the cheapness and simplicity of organizing such a country sewage system, in addition to the unpleasant odor hovering over the place where wastewater is stored, it has another significant drawback. This is the need to regularly call special services involved in cleaning cesspools. Which is not always possible in remote areas or results in a large sum.

Septic tank - modern sewage system for a summer residence

The use of a septic tank, a more modern and, most importantly, efficient device, makes it possible to create a sewer system in a dacha without pumping. water is purified and discharged directly into the ground. Of course, a vacuum cleaner may be required to flush the container, but this service will only be needed in exceptional cases. This type of sewage system consists of a septic tank, where wastewater is settled and treated, and a drainage system.

A septic tank is a multi-chamber container through which wastewater is gradually separated into liquid and solid fractions and thus purified. Microbiological decomposition of waste can also take place here.

The easiest way for sewerage in a country house is to purchase a branded septic tank and install the structure according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. However, everything can be done and with my own hands. Several sealed chambers are installed in the pit, connected by pipes for overflowing wastewater.

The waste entering the septic tank is purified by 50–70%, and then it goes into a filter well or is discharged to a filtration field.

The design of a filter well is similar to a cesspool, with the exception of the bottom. Instead, a volumetric cushion of sand and gravel is built under it, allowing for additional filtration of water when it enters fertile soil.

In practice, filtration fields are an area with perforated pipes laid in the soil, through which purified moisture seeps into the ground in small portions.

Treatment plants can increase the efficiency of wastewater treatment to almost 99%. Today, this solution allows you to use waste water even for irrigation and create the highest quality and efficient sewage system in your country house. Final cleaning occurs thanks to the work of microorganisms that prevent waste from rotting, which means there is no unpleasant odor.

A treatment station is a sewage system in a country house without pumping out sewage; the water coming out of it has no repulsive odor and is completely harmless to humans and the environment; it can be used for irrigation and for filling a reservoir on the site.

The only drawback of the design is its considerable price, which is more than compensated for by comfortable use and the absence of problems with cleaning storage containers and odor.

Video: about sewerage

Who would refuse country house in the village? Nature, Fresh air, natural products and, if possible, the amenities to which we are so accustomed - water supply and sewerage.

But not in every rural areas there is such a service. Houses that have running water do not always have sewerage installed.

Sewerage at the dacha with your own hands is a labor-intensive task, but necessary. It is feasible for anyone who has experience in construction work.

Before you learn how to make a sewer system in your country house, you should understand the intricacies in order to avoid mistakes.

Preparatory work

The sewer system is a complex mechanism that consists of separate parts:

1. Internal sewerage is represented by a system of pipes inside the building. Its function: to remove waste water from plumbing fixtures to external sewerage.
2. External sewerage is a system of pipes that drain dirty water away from the building.
3. Treatment or storage device, where wastewater is treated or accumulated for subsequent removal.

Sewage installation begins with design detailed diagram. It will help you figure out what materials to buy and how much work needs to be done.

The sewerage diagram at the dacha reflects:

• Domestic wastewater sources. This includes a bathtub, shower stall, bathhouse, and sink.
• Method of connecting and laying pipes inside a building: hidden in the wall or under the cladding, brought out.
• The place in the house where the sewage system is discharged to the street;
• The trajectory of the external sewerage system;
• Place of installation of the sewer. The minimum distance from the house is 5 meters, from a source of natural water supply – 30 m, from trees and bushes – 3 m;
• Collector type (biological treatment plant, drain hole, septic tank).

When drawing up a diagram, you should take into account a number of factors that affect the type and design of the sewer system:

1. depth of groundwater;
2. the depth at which the ground freezes in winter;
3. soil type and condition;
4. landscape around the house;
5. water supply on site.

Consult survey documents for soil information. If there are none, ask your neighbors or indigenous people.

The choice of collector depends on the data you receive and the type of soil. If sand predominates in it, then the ground easily allows runoff to pass through. Getting into groundwater, they pollute the environment. Therefore, it is better to use a collector with a bottom.

A cesspool without a bottom is not suitable for soil with a high concentration of clay. The rock does not conduct moisture well, which leads to rapid silting of the sewer.

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out below the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, they will freeze and lead to breakdown of the drain system.

When developing a sewerage scheme, take into account that the water supply does not intersect with sewer pipes.

Arrangement of internal sewerage

Guided by the developed scheme, buy building material. As for pipes, choose products at your discretion:

1. PVC pipes. They are resistant to chemicals, do not rust, do not overgrow, and do not create obstacles to the movement of wastewater. Prices for the material are “reasonable”.
2. Cast iron pipes. They are distinguished by strength and durability. Disadvantages include: weight, complex installation, price.
3. Ceramic pipes. This the best option for internal sewerage. The only drawback is the price.

Installation of sewage system inside the house begins with installation central riser with a radius of 5.5 cm at a distance of 4 meters from the windows. After this, the water supply is laid horizontally.

When installing pipes, try not to make straight turns, as this will complicate the transportation of waste water. If this cannot be avoided, then it is better to use 2 corner elements 45 degrees each.

To connect a sink and bathtub, a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm is sufficient. To connect a toilet, choose a product with a diameter of 10 cm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a dacha involves a hole in the foundation of the house, which serves to lead the drainage system to the street.

The output requires mandatory install check valve, which prevents waste water from returning back.

Which sewer system to choose: common or separate?

At the beginning of construction, it is important to decide where wastewater from the kitchen, bath and toilet will be discharged: into one collector or into different ones.

As practice shows, it is economically profitable to make separate sewers. Waste water from the kitchen and bathroom is not considered hazardous to the environment. Therefore, a cesspool without a bottom is suitable for it.

A sealed cesspool or septic tank is made for wastewater from the toilet.

One pit for drainage will be expensive. The fact is that it fills up quickly and requires regular pumping.

Types of sewer system

The classification of sewer systems is based on the type of sewage facility:

1. simple drainage pit;
2. septic tank;
3. local wastewater treatment plants.

The choice of sewer type depends on the frequency of use, the number of family members, the possibility of frequent pumping of wastewater, whether there is a toilet in the house or on the street, and other factors.

Simple drainage pit

This type of sewer system is easy to install and does not require regular pumping. It serves to remove wastewater from the kitchen and bath.

These drains are not dangerous to humans and nature, so the sewage system is considered simple: a pipeline and a buried structure without a bottom with a filter.

The principle of operation of such a sewage system is as follows: penetrating with water, large particles are retained by the filter, and the water is absorbed into the soil and again enters our water supply.

Making a cesspool is not difficult. For construction they use brickwork or reinforced concrete.

Sewage installation is carried out in stages:

1. Select a location on the site for the pit. Be guided by the fact that the distance from the pit to the house is 4 meters. Considering that the structure is periodically cleaned of dirt and silt, place the pit in a place convenient for these purposes.
2. Dig a hole on the site for the drainage structure and from it a ditch 0.5 meters deep to the foundation of the house.
3. Install and route the pipeline so that the pipe at the exit from the house is higher than at the entrance to the drainage structure.
4. At the bottom of the pit, make a filter in the form of a two-layer embankment of sand and expanded clay.
5. Check how the sewer works. Turn on the water and watch for 5 minutes to see if there are any leaks.
6. Fill the trench 150 mm with sand and then with soil. Lay down the turf.
7. Close the drainage structure with a lid.

This sewer system does not require constant maintenance. But during spring floods, “keep your eyes open.” There is a risk that flooding will occur due to rising groundwater levels. In this case, the system requires immediate pumping.

Septic tank

This device is used to collect and purify waste water. It happens different types depending on the design, cleaning method and material. Wastewater treatment in the facility is carried out through soil filtration and anaerobic bacteria.

You can buy a septic tank in a store building materials or save money and do it yourself. The downside of a drainage facility is the need for regular pumping.

Before laying a pipeline for drains on the site, decide whether it will be brick, reinforced concrete, plastic or metal containers.

Sometimes a sealed container is installed on the site in which wastewater accumulates. Such a system requires regular pumping, which causes a lot of trouble.

To carry out pumping, sewage disposal equipment is called in, which costs a lot of money. More thrifty and practical owners of summer cottages use special pumps for pumping.

Diagram of the components of a sewage disposal machine

Most convenient option A collector with two chambers connected to each other by a pipe is considered. It does not require too frequent pumping, since part of the purified wastewater passes from one chamber to another, where it passes through the filter and is absorbed into the soil.

The service life of the device directly depends on the quality of these cameras. They are subject to the following requirements:

• Tightness;
• Resistance to aggressive substances;
• Resistant to temperature changes and mechanical stress.

DIY septic tank

To build a septic tank, carry out installation according to the instructions:

1. Dig a pit. If the territory has a natural water supply in the form of a well, then it would be correct to dig a hole at a distance of 30 meters from it.
2. Make formwork by dividing the pit into 2 unequal parts. ¾ of the structure is located in the settling tank, where wastewater is treated.
3. Concrete the base of the larger compartment;
4. Make the bottom of the smaller compartment deeper and fill it with crushed stone;
5. By using reinforcing mesh concrete the septic tank;
6. Make 2 holes for the drain overflow pipe between the chambers and for the outlet of the sewer pipe.
7. Close the septic tank with a lid and install a vent pipe.

When installing a sewer system, it is important to install the pipeline correctly. Plastic pipes are in demand. To prevent water from stagnating and destroying the septic tank and drainage pipes, lay the pipes at a slight slope towards the drainage structure.

It is recommended to install the sewer line along a flat path, avoiding turns. Otherwise, you should consider installing inspection wells. They will allow you to independently clean the system if blockages occur.

Treatment stations

If you have a large amount of money, then you don’t have to produce it. You can find models on the market treatment plants for every taste.

With the purchase of this facility you will make your life easier. You will not have a headache about sewerage repairs, pumping out wastewater and other issues. The experts will arrive, install the station, and you can safely use this result.

It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from the well or borehole and below them along the groundwater flow. Digging a hole with a diameter larger diameter barrels at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (deeper is better). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if it is metal, then with a grinder, if it is plastic, then with a wood saw with a fine tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, near the bottom of the barrel. We fill the bottom of the hole with at least 20 cm of crushed stone and place the barrel upside down, oriented the hole for the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground not far from a buried barrel, you can put a plastic mushroom, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer system for the home; it cannot cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or maintained in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m = 2.3 m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe can discharge water to drainage ditch on the border of the site, or may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to divert excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I’m a little surprised that someone’s sewer system can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there...

Reviews (38) on “The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.”

Thank you for the useful article and adequate answers. I’ll start doing it tomorrow. I hope the pipe in our Transbaikalia will not freeze. Of course, I agree with you that a significant inclination needs to be done. By the way, I don’t understand whether the pipe will be enough for 50 or is it necessary for 100?

1. Depends on the distance and characteristics of the problem being solved. It is better to make 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances of up to 5 (five) meters, you can make 50 (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as it is more durable and frost-resistant. This is, after all, an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. What can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up, get greasy, get soapy? Or will it clog up tightly?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or will it be gray (for internal wiring), since it will only be used in the summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) - LDPE - polyethylene high pressure. What do you say?
3. My plot has a slope. Along the fence just downhill. I realized that it was better to dig it in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rainwater from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers, Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loams, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, if the basic installation rules are followed.
   2. It definitely won’t work for “internal wiring.” We need PVC for external sewerage. For internal sewerage, PP is usually used. You won’t dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a LDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about LDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but problems may arise with connecting pipes to bends (turns) and exiting the house. If you are not a “specialist”, then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rainwater is usually directed into the drainage system around the house, which discharges it into a drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - “drainage”, corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
   In loamy soil for house drainage it is necessary to make at least a small irrigation field (small drainage system just for this purpose). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on the go,” then the usual crushed stone sprinkling around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can put rainwater drains into this sewer system, but... Then there will be a high probability of damage to pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe with ice) of these waters. That's why drainage pipes are made perforated, i.e. “leaky” so that the water can drain away on its own. And if you install drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt and get dirty”) and will not work. This is not to mention the possible unpleasant odors along the entire 20 meters of the pipe. So better sewerage separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60-cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I'll just poke holes in the side of the frame and then proceed with external wiring. Accordingly, I don’t want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go on the ground.
How to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 external wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn’t quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house you use fifty dollars for the interior, i.e. PP pipe. You let it out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “seal” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then move on to the 110th PVC, and you are driving it. From the exit of the log house to the 110th PVC you can use the same fifty dollars, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say, without imagining the possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And the 110th went.
   In principle, it is permissible to install a fifty-kopeck piece on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is advisable that it is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps on thermal expansion. Fifty dollars of PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you'll have to look for it.
   And general advice, just in case you are a fireman, avoid right angles. If necessary, make them prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, with inserts between them. Right angles get clogged well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you understood everything correctly. It’s just that not a single salesperson in stores (I visited about five) has come across PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of pipe 110, I need to walk about five fifty meters along the wall (from below there is an entrance to the garage). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were previously laid in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing cisterns suspended above your head

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely low-density polyethylene, the dye was just different. Look in specialized stores, at construction bases, where they sell professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes, without sockets. I'll tell you how to connect them, it's not difficult. There are tips for everything on the Internet. Look in the store at the address: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, “All Instruments” store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. As a last resort, you can install internal 50 mm PP pipes, you just need to watch them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I'll definitely check their website.
Just a passing question: will I finally find fifty dollars? PVC pipes. But all sorts of turns and other things also need PVC? This is probably completely unrealistic. I'll look on the Internet and on their website.
Thank you again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “scoured” the Internet in search of fifty dollars worth of PVC, I actually discovered that these pipes are only available in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, buy fifty dollars of PP, just look not for the standard cheap 1.8 mm PP, but for 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, fifty rubles of PP are installed in non-critical sections of the sewer system, without thinking about the consequences. You will just have to keep an eye on this area, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the dacha season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa is unlikely to be suitable, they are for protection electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer(!) is a mystery to me. So make fifty dollars of PP from the house to the fence. This is not possible, but if you really need it, then...

Thank you for this article for the advice. I just had a situation where I bought myself multistage pump. A plumber arrived and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork and there was no problem. When I was tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. But if I had a water drain, this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.