Do-it-yourself frame bath 5x5 project. Construction of a frame bath: fast and high-quality construction. Do-it-yourself frame bath project

There are endless articles on the Internet about how to build a frame bath with your own hands. However, often the text you read, at least gave you only a little necessary knowledge, and even worse turned out to be completely useless for you. In this article, we will try to convey to you only the information you need, which would be correct not only in theory, but also suitable in practice. So, where does the construction of a frame bath begin?

What do we know about frame structures

Your place in the sun frame housing construction has long been used in countries Western Europe, USA, Australia and Canada. There are neighborhoods where the presence of buildings of this type reaches 95% of the total number of buildings built. Slowly, they began to adopt experience in Russia, where, as statistics show, it turned out to be very successful.

Using frame building technologies, people in our latitudes build not only houses, but also other outbuildings such as: a bathhouse, a garage, a workshop, and so on.

Advantages of a frame bath

It is quite possible to build a turnkey frame bath in one month;
The finished structure is lightweight, so there is no need to build a powerful foundation;
Unlike a log, the walls of a frame-type bath do not shrink, which allows the installation of windows and doors immediately after the walls are erected;
For work, a whole team of professional carpenters is unnecessary, one assistant is quite enough;
Estimated cost spent on construction in 2 times lower than a similar structure erected from a log and 3 times below the bath from a bar;
Ease of installation of electrical, sewer and plumbing system. Without problems, everything can be hidden between the inner and outer walls;
Endless variety of finishes, both inside and out.

Disadvantages of a frame bath, owner reviews

Very often in various construction forums you can find reviews from users of such baths. In addition to positive reviews, people also sometimes leave negative comments. However, most often, this turns out to be only mistakes that were initially made in the design and construction of the bath, and not weaknesses buildings.

For example, people complain that the bathhouse began to get dark and after 2 years after commissioning, a fungus appeared on the walls. Such moments take place, but this is only a consequence of poor insulation of the structure, no more.

The fact is that with a sharp cooling, condensation forms on the walls, and this is the main reason for the appearance of the fungus. To avoid this, it is enough to use a high-quality insulation.

There are also comments about shrinkage. Users write that after some time there was a slight shrinkage of the structure on 3-5 cm. This can happen, but only if raw wood was used in the construction, which should not happen according to technology.

For construction, only dry and preservative-treated wood should be used.

Frame bath projects

There are two most popular sizes that are most often used in the construction of frame-type baths - 4x4 m. and 6x6 m. Dimensions depend primarily on the need. For a family of 3-4 people, a smaller sauna will be enough.

In the event that you have a large family, and you are also a big fan of taking a steam bath, inviting a couple of friends to visit you, then it’s better not to save money and build a bigger bathhouse, especially since the difference in cost is not so significant.

Despite the fact that the construction of a frame bath is not a construction site of the century and it is quite possible to build it without a detailed project, the presence of schematic dimensions and approximate plan placement of premises inside, it is still desirable to have. Here are two examples finished projects which you can use.

Frame bath 4x4

Most often, a bath of these sizes consists of only three rooms: a steam room, a sink and a rest room. Despite the small area of each room, there is enough space inside for a comfortable stay in the bath for 3-4 people at the same time.

Bath project 4x4

If necessary, you can increase the floor area due to the open terrace. To do this, a pair of rafter legs is added to the roof, which rest on two beams of the upper trim, reinforced with vertical pillars.

To avoid getting cold into the rest room, you can install a partition in it. Thus, another room will turn out - a veranda. It is usually used for storage outerwear and shoes.

Frame bath 6x6

If the size of the plot and the availability of extra funds allow you to build a frame bath with dimensions 6x6 m., then do not hesitate, build unambiguously. There will no doubt be enough space in such a bath for everyone, especially since most often baths of this size imply the presence attic floor in which the bedroom is located.

Baths with such dimensions have several advantages. Firstly, on the first floor it is possible to place a full-fledged corridor and a bathroom. Well, the attic can be turned into a living room combined with a rest room, where you can perfectly place, for example, a billiard table.

DIY frame bath

If you have at least a little experience in building using frame technology, you can independently make your own changes to a typical project. Design feature this type of buildings allows you to do this at any stage of construction.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation begins with the choice of a place for the building and the preparation of the site. Schematic marking of the foundation is made using a rope and pegs.

Since the structure is light in weight, it is possible to save money on the construction of a full-fledged foundation. It will be quite enough, a well-established foundation.

From a bar 150x150 mm. a lower harness is made, on which the supporting pillars and racks of the frame will rest. The method used to join corners is "in the paw", with reliable fixation between nails.

frame

The frame of the bath is made of dry, specially processed edged boards. The size of the board must be selected based on the calculations bearing capacity your bath and the insulation you plan to use. Usually a bar is used under the corner posts 100x100 mm., and for racks a board 40x80 mm. Pillars and racks are reinforced with corner braces, so the structure becomes rigid.

It is recommended to do the installation step of the racks 600 mm. It is this width that most standard heaters have, so it does not have to be adjusted to a different size, and its tight fit will eliminate the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. This step will subsequently be applied to floor logs and rafter legs.

The places where window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with a board of the same section as the rack itself. Simultaneously with the installation of supports and racks, a log for the floor is installed. For these purposes, a cutting board is used. 100x50 mm., fastening takes place on special metal shoes. Mounting step is the same 600 mm. By analogy with the bottom, the upper harness is made, using the same method of fastening “in the paw”.

Roof

For frame baths, due to their small size, it would be advisable to use either four-pitched. The roof frame is being made using an edged board with a section 150x50 mm., installation step of the rafter legs 600 mm.

For greater convenience, roof trusses can be assembled on the ground. To do this, you need to make a template, which is done as follows.

The ends of the two boards are connected at the edges with an ordinary nail. The second ends are installed in the marked place of the upper trim, where the place of the undercut for the supporting part is marked on them with a pencil. The structure in this position is fastened with a temporary transverse board.

Having lowered the layout down, mark the place of the upper connection with a pencil with a straight vertical line, so we get required angle. Having removed the nail, we washed it down according to the markings outlined above and below, then we splice the ridge part with metal plates on both sides. We replace the temporary jumper with a permanent one (crossbar). Check the resulting template again, if everything has become exactly according to it, we make the rest of the farm.

Fastening rafters with metal plates

Important! The attachment points of the rafter legs must coincide with the vertical posts. So you will significantly reduce the load on the structure.

The lower part of the rafter legs is attached with a metal corner and nails. Both roof slopes must be level. After installing all the rafters, we proceed to the installation of the roofing pie under the roof of your choice.

wall cladding

sheathing external walls usually produce wooden clapboard. You can paint it in any color you like, but true connoisseurs leave the natural color of wood, emphasizing its structure with only a layer of transparent varnish. Before nailing the sheathing, do not forget to sheathe the frame with a waterproofing film.

Modern market building materials allows you to choose another option for wall cladding. For example, it is not uncommon to find frame baths sheathed with siding or a block house.

Warming of the frame bath

How seriously you take this stage construction, the comfort and service life of your bath in the future will depend.

It is impossible to save on materials for thermal insulation of a frame bath. The best material for insulation is still mineral wool. It is an environmentally friendly product that does not lend itself to mold or burning. In addition, this material "breathes", which is its main advantage over other types of insulation.

The material on both sides must fit snugly against the walls of the side posts. All the work is quite simple, so no special recommendations are needed here. After all the walls are insulated, they are covered from above with a vapor barrier film made of aluminum foil.

For interior lining, lining made of pine or linden is well suited. In the steam room, it is better to use cedar lining, the unique aroma of the essential oils with healing properties make it indispensable for this room.

Interior decoration of the bath with pine clapboard

As you yourself could see for yourself, the construction of a bath using frame technology is a simple matter, or rather, very simple. admit serious mistakes during its construction it is very difficult, so even a novice carpenter can cope with this work.

Before starting construction, make sure that you have at least the simplest project on hand with a minimum set of drawing dimensions.

There is no money to build a bath from timber or brick, which means you have to use cheap construction technology frame building. And although a frame bath is a small cash investment, it will still meet the objectives. Of course, if you correctly approach the construction process itself. So, for those who want to build a bath using frame technology with their own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with its main stages and some of the nuances.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a frame bath

Like any building process, the construction of a frame bath is divided into several stages. Each stage has its own moments and requirements.

Foundation construction

First of all, you need to choose a foundation for a frame bath. Since this structure is light, two options can be offered:

Columnar.
Tape (shallow).

The construction of a columnar foundation for a frame bath is based on the right choice of a place for pouring them. Usually these are places at the corners of the bath and several intermediate foundations, on which the load-bearing walls will rest. The distance between the pillars is 80-150 cm. This indicator is determined by several factors:

Post dimensions;
Soil condition;
The weight of the frame bath;
Floors of the building.

If at the bottom of the well under the foundation an expanded space is made, which is called the fifth, then both the number of pillars and their size can be reduced. The thing is that this form of foundation pillar doubles its carrying capacity. To create such a form, you will have to use a special drill.

So, the installation sites for the foundation supports for the frame bath have been determined, now it is necessary to dig holes for them. To do this, you can use a garden drill with a diameter of 200 mm. Even a teenager can master this operation with his own hands. Well depth - 1 m.

Either sand or crushed stone of a fine fraction with a thickness of 10-15 cm is poured into prepared wells.
A pre-prepared reinforcing frame is installed in the form of a structure with a triangular or rectangular section from fittings. It should rise above the edge of the ground to a height of approximately 20 cm.
A cylinder is made of roofing material, which is lowered into the well. This is a kind of waterproofing layer and an element of formation smooth surface supports.
Above the well, it is necessary to install a small formwork with a height equal to the height of the ledge of the reinforcement cage. It can be made from a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 200 mm. By the way, this formwork can work as fixed.

Do-it-yourself concrete mortar is poured, which, as it is poured, is bayoneted with a piece metal fittings or pipe. Here it is important not only to compact the material well with your own hands, but also to remove the maximum amount of air that enters it during the kneading process. It is the air after the concrete hardens that will determine the number of pores, and they negatively affect the quality of the concrete structure.

Attention! Be sure to install an anchor board in each column during pouring of concrete. Its length is not less than half a meter, while above the surface of the support it should stick out 25 cm in size.

On this, the construction of a do-it-yourself columnar foundation for a frame bath can be considered completed. You can download it only after 28 days.

As for the construction of a shallow strip foundation for a frame bath, this design works great on sandy and soft soils. To do this, a trench 500 mm deep and 300 mm wide is dug along the perimeter of the future building.

The pillow is filled with coarse sand or fine gravel. You can use gravel. Cushion thickness - 150-200 mm.
The reinforcing frame is installed. In principle, these can be any metal profiles interconnected by a knitting wire. You can use a flat frame in one layer. It must be installed on supports, for example, on bricks. It is very important that the grating is inside the concrete layer, and not between the pillow and the foundation.
If the soil is sandy, then you will have to install a full formwork. If clay, then you can get by with formwork located above the ground.
Concrete is poured using the same technology as with a columnar foundation for a frame bath.

Do not forget to install anchors at the corners of the foundation structure and in the gap between them.

Bath frame assembly

First of all, a Mauerlat is installed (see video). These are beams with a section of 200x200 mm. They are installed on the foundation of the bath, the upper plane of which is waterproofed. This can be done with a roofing material, laying it in two or three layers, or using bituminous mastic. Through holes are made in the beams for fastening with anchors, so it is worthwhile to accurately determine the location of these holes. The Mauerlat is fastened with a nut and washer for each anchor. Beams are fastened together metal corners for self-tapping screws.

Now, vertical racks of bars with a section of 150x150 mm are installed at the corners of the Mauerlat, and intermediate racks will also have to be arranged from them (see video). The risers are fastened with the same corners and self-tapping screws. So that when assembling the upper screed, the racks do not deviate from the vertical position, they must be additionally fixed with jibs and scarves from bars with a section of 100x100 mm or 80x80 mm.

Now you can install the upper Mauerlat from beams with a section of 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. Its fastening is also made by corners. In principle, the frame of the bath is ready. As you can see, it was not difficult to build a frame structure with your own hands.

Installation of floors in a frame bath

It is necessary to understand the moment that the premises inside the frame bath bear their own specific loads, that is, each has its own purpose. Accordingly, the floors in different rooms will have to be built differently. For example, in the locker room, in the recreation area and in the steam room, wooden floors will look good. But in the washing room, where water flows in large quantities, it is better to install a concrete base with a slight slope towards the drain and drainage of dirty water.

A frame bath is a building in which you need to take care of thermal insulation, so wooden floors will have to be insulated.

Logs are installed, which with their ends will rest against the Mauerlat elements. Fastening - corners from steel and self-tapping screws. As a log, you can use boards with a thickness of 40 or 50 mm, you can use beams 50x100 mm.
Along the lags along the lower edges, longitudinal slats break through.
Sheet material is installed along the rails: plywood, moisture-resistant chipboard, metal, corrugated board, and so on, can be used.
A heater (mineral or glass wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam plates) is laid in the interlag space.
A waterproofing membrane is laid along the logs, which is attached to them with metal staples, they are nailed with a stapler, you can use carnations with a wide hat.
Installation of grooved boards.

The concrete base in the washing room of the frame bath must also be insulated, so the soil is removed in this place, perlite is poured (fine river sand, it is a heater in this case), waterproofing is laid (membrane or roofing material), a concrete solution is poured that forms the floor in washing. By the way, this can not be done if the frame bath will be used infrequently. You can simply lay the boards along the logs, between which leave gaps of 5 mm. A small amount of water will be absorbed into the soil, and so that there is no bad smell, in the foundation of the frame bath, it is necessary to leave two through holes through which both moisture and smell will be removed outside to the street.

The construction of the walls of the frame bath

As for the walls, their main task is not only to create indoor conditions, but also to make interior spaces warm with minimal heat loss. This is especially important for a frame bath, plus this is the side of savings. Money by reducing fuel consumption.

You can start finishing the frame both from the inside of the bath and from the outside. For the outer cladding of a frame bath, it is best to use sheet material: moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard, OSB boards. You can lining, and boards, and so on. For the interior decoration of the frame bath, the best option is lining.

For example, they sheathed the frame of the bath from the outside, go inside, where the process of thermal insulation of the walls is carried out. In order to increase the strength of wall structures, it is possible to mount a crate between the racks.

Attention! The insulation must be laid so that there are no gaps and cracks between it and the elements of the bath frame.

These are one hundred percent cold bridges, which will affect the quality of the building in terms of heat loss. We add that for frame baths it is better to use heaters with a foil side. This is another characteristic that will help reflect heat energy inside the bath.

Do-it-yourself installation and insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath

You can build a ceiling using the same technology as the floors - on logs. From the inside, the logs are sheathed with boards or moisture-resistant plywood. It is better not to use plywood in a steam room, it contains glue, which at high temperatures begins to exude harmful substances.

Insulation will have to be carried out from the side of the attic. Before sheathing the ceiling of the frame bath with boards from the inside, you need to lay it on top of the log with your own hands. vapor barrier membrane. The insulation is placed in the interlag space without gaps and cracks, a waterproofing layer is installed on top, and already last layer the structure is closed with durable material - the same plywood, chipboard, boards, etc., can be used.

Do-it-yourself frame bath roof construction

The shape of the roof of the frame bath can be any. The simplest is single-sided. Therefore, on the upper Mauerlat from the side of the facade of the frame bath, you need to install several racks of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat with metal corners. The number of racks determines the length of the facade of the frame bath at the rate of every 1.2-1.5 m. The height of the racks is up to 1 m.

A beam is laid on top of the installed supports, on which they will abut at one end rafter legs, in fact, these are boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm. The second end of the rafters rests against the back of the upper Mauerlat of the bath frame. You can fasten all this with corners, nails, wire. The distance between the rafters is 80-150 cm.

The next step is laying the crate. The elements of the crate can be slats with a section of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm, or boards with a thickness of 30-50 mm, a width of 100 mm. Fastening is done with screws or nails. And the last - the installation of roofing material. The choice of coverage is up to the customer.

Conclusion on the topic

Like this step-by-step instruction how to build a frame bath with your own hands. Let's face it, this process is simple, if we compare it with the construction of baths from more fundamental materials. But in any case, you will have to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of building a frame bath. Therefore, we suggest watching the video that is posted on this page of our website. The way it will be for you is like a video instruction.

The most economical both in terms of building materials and labor costs are frame baths. When erecting them, you will need one and a half, or even two times less wood than for analogues from timber and logs, moreover, such structures are lighter, and therefore have less load on the foundation. Therefore, the construction of a frame bath with your own hands is justified both financially and technically.

Many home craftsmen are interested in how to build a frame bath with their own hands, this will be discussed in the article.

We build a frame bath

Before you build a frame bath correctly, you need to carefully plan everything with your own hands.

Before creating a project, you should clarify the following points:

You need to decide whether this building will be built-in or freestanding.
Choose a building site. In this case, the need for laying engineering communications. In most cases, this factor determines the choice of location.
Determine the type of soil on the site. In this regard, the foundation of the structure is selected.
Plan the features of the building. For example, it will be one or two floors, it will have a terrace or a veranda, an attic, an attic, etc. Such buildings allow you to embody various design ideas. Determine where the heater will be located, what the design of the ventilation and chimney will depend on.
Define Communication Schemes. In particular, you should decide whether they will be laid from the main buildings of the site or whether they will be autonomous.

Choose roof type. Here it is worth choosing not only the type of coverage, but also paying attention to the configuration of the roof, on which the power of the floors and rafters will depend.

Which foundation to choose

Since the frame structure is characterized by lightness, its foundation is made according to a simplified scheme.

Given all the features of these buildings, two types of foundation should be distinguished:

For the construction of such, poured under the walls around the perimeter of the building.
Also a good option would be a columnar foundation, which is formed from asbestos-cement pipes poured with concrete.

Advice! The columnar foundation can only be installed on stable soils. Otherwise, the building may collapse.

Installing a column foundation

Consider how to :

We mark the building site. The distance between the posts should be from 1 to 2 meters.

Advice! Pillars should be located around the perimeter of the building and under its most loaded elements, including corners, load-bearing walls and a stove.

Accordingly, we dig holes for poles to a depth of one and a half meters.
We fall asleep in the pits of 10 cm of gravel-sand mixture.
We install the pipe. The best option is asbestos-cement pipes.
We insert from 2 to 4 reinforcing bars into the pipe, which will be the basis for the formation of the grillage.

Pour concrete into pipes.

The foundation should settle for a week, after which the construction of a frame bath with your own hands can begin. However, before building walls, you should install a grillage - that part of the foundation that connects the tops of the pillars, strengthening the foundation.

The grillage is poured in several stages:

We install formwork from boards on top of the pillars.
We knit reinforcing cage and put it in the formwork.
Fill the frame with mortar.

Bath construction

So, we build a frame bath with our own hands.

To comply with all the subtleties of these works, there is a simple instruction:

We begin the installation with a basement piping, which consists of four boards (5x10 cm), which are laid under the future walls of the building. The boards are laid with the outer edge along the outer contour and fastened with nails at the corners. After laying, check the levelness of the boards with a spirit level.

To make the frame, we first assemble frames consisting of harnesses, racks and crossbars. Therefore, before you start building a bath with your own hands using frame technology, you need to have a construction plan indicating the frame nodes. According to this plan, the frames are assembled.
Crossbars, strappings and racks are connected with nails of suitable length. Preferably. So that each side of the building consists of a separate frame. This way you can create more solid construction. The weight of such frames, depending on the type of wood, can be about 200 kg, and therefore you will need several people to carry out the installation.

Advice! For the walls of frame steam rooms, dried planed hardwood boards are excellent. They have low thermal conductivity and do not warp.

Now we assemble the frames into a frame, fixing them on the strapping boards with nails. It is desirable that the gap between the racks of the frames be no more than 60 cm. Above the window and doorways, in places where walls and partitions are adjacent to each other, additional racks are needed. Therefore, in such places, the pitch of the racks must be changed.

Now the walls need to be sewn up. For this, boards are used or sheet materials according to the type of OSB or DSP. Excellent material for outer skin is coniferous wood. When sheathing boards end-to-end, waterproofing should be placed under them - roofing material or roofing felt. For the inside of the dressing room, any boards can be used.
Having sheathed the bath from the outside, lay the thermal insulation in the frame of the building. Here you can use various heaters: mineral wool, fibreboard, wood concrete, etc. It is best to use mineral wool boards, because given material has high technical specifications while the price is very reasonable.

Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing. Most often used as a waterproofing polyethylene film, 150-200 microns thick

The interior cladding completes the construction of the walls. Here you can use boards or lining.

Conclusion

Building frame baths with your own hands is a very responsible process. Traditionally, such buildings are made of logs, and therefore it is very important to strictly follow the technology so that the frame structure you create has all the requirements for such structures ().

The above information will help you avoid the traditional mistakes that many beginners make. And also the video in this article will help to understand this issue deeper.

The construction of a bath is necessary on any suburban area and at the country house. But traditional options that use brick or timber have a number of disadvantages. But deprived of them frame structures must be built using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from brick or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials, prepare flawless drawings. And without the help of someone, it will not be possible to do such a job at all. therefore frame projects deserve more attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood, compared with conventional timber structures, is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings are relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance manifests itself even more. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously finish the external and internal walls, and the overall installation speed increases markedly. The smallest area of the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm for the foundation, which are filled with concrete.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are alternately lifted and placed above the frame racks. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame, the bath is divided into separate rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantages of the construction of frame baths are:

Ease of construction;
cheap construction (small payment for materials);
simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
poor thermal conductivity;
the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

exclusion of shrinkage;
no need for complex construction equipment;
environmental safety (a rarity for country budget buildings);
the ability to perform all the work without the involvement of specialists;
exclusion of wet work - you can build in winter and even where there is no sustainable water supply;
a wide variety of finishes.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately find certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated by timely measures, only because it is necessary to properly understand possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form cool down quickly, and therefore inside through a short time an ugly fungus appears. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality heaters.

Styrofoam or plain mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the life of the shield bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the frame shrinkage is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the outer and inner finishes are deformed. You can reduce this risk if you take lumber that has undergone chamber drying.

Design subtleties

The ease of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely get to work without preparation. Even the presence of experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out project and drawings of the future structure will help to avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is required to maximize the intensity of space use. As much as possible small baths should generally be avoided if there is sufficient land for development.

The most simple circuit- when the steam room, shower room, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini structures or transportable baths, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create even with the smallest dimensions, albeit very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath may well be heated by a small boiler or a wood-burning stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimal-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

low consumption of building materials;
almost complete exclusion of waste;
high speed of work;
strength and reliability (since it is not required to save on the quality of components in a small area).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house must be registered with the cadastral authorities.

On a larger plot, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will already allow not only to wash off the dirt from itself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides imply a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, it is there that they also have a staircase connecting the first floor with the attic.

A two-story bath is superior to a one-story bath just because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to the frame technology, the vast majority of the costs relate to the base of the building, and if it already exists, the subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation of supporting pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building a bath truss system from boards with a section of 10x5 cm, and a 2.2 cm thick board usually goes to the crate.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy constructor. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a pool, then they are only placed on a prepared frame. The kit usually comes with a detailed technological instruction that helps to avoid mistakes - if only it is strictly observed. In case of mobile baths still simpler - they are not assembled on construction sites, but on industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is only to add ready blocks the necessary details.

Most projects involve the use gable roofs, attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Inside, they often put bath equipment. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. The design indicators of insulation depend on whether the bath will be used all year round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the amount of materials

The need for metal frame nodes is not so difficult to calculate: any seller can do this by learning required dimensions and execution. AT standard projects the exact consumption of metal is normalized, and if they are made to order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But all the same, they must be controlled, since even on iron material, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the needs for wood, you need to choose whether a beam or a log will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
work is greatly simplified.

The strongest timber, according to experts, is made from conifers, besides, they are less susceptible to destructive action wood-eating insects and microorganisms. The standard dimensions of the timber, taken into account in the calculations, range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters say that you need to add 10-30% to the result. But this step is frankly stupid, because on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on window and door openings.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with an area, and then they are forced to stop work, buy the missing materials and spend money on their transportation. In order not to be mistaken, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, the price tags and in the speeches of sellers indicate several big sizes bar than it really is.

To further save money, you can change the timber to boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. When working, only boards of the highest category are acceptable.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and choosing the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to deal with the sequence construction works. Fundamental differences From the construction of other baths or city houses, there are no stages in order, but each of them has its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when building a base, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then they mark out the external contours and, with the help of a drill, drill openings that go 2 m deep.

For your information: the depth in some cases may be more or less. This decision is made based on soil type and depth. groundwater. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and covered with coarse sand from above, besides, it is thoroughly rammed. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

1 part of cement M200;
4 parts of sand;
7.5 parts of small gravel;
3 parts pure water.

According to the step-by-step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The mounted pipes must dry, and only then comes the turn to the installation of the lower trim. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the strapping, a draft floor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure from the log and the strapping, a roofing material is laid, sometimes this place is abundantly smeared with mastic.

The construction of the foundation under the frame bath, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases are allowed only for miniature baths, the total area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the beam and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to put several bars on the same level, trimmed around the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well on clay soils, where they serve stably for many years.

During the construction of baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using beams or channels. Such supports help to build even on a hillside or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the involvement of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

On every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. According to the technology, it is forbidden to extract structures that have bent during twisting to the outside, their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and reinforcement fragments. After completing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, heads are welded on top of them; the drain in the bath is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many try to put a bath on strip base. Such a solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both technological schools are simple, but require careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and prefabricated foundations are only laid and connected. Most often, they are guided by a shallow depth (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the bearing walls.

The choice of a suitable foundation option is often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be done independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are recognized by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level at which the earth freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared in advance of grasses and bushes, flowers and turf. There should not even be stumps, roots and any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markup, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared guideline. The pillow of the building is made of sand, which is abundantly filled with water and rammed. Then cover the first layer with rubble. Waterproofing is placed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing material is used, although more and more often it is being replaced by a more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. wire reinforcement, wound up 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is carried out with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel, in terms of density it is similar to dense sour cream. Additional hardening is achieved by plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than getting ready mix from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold joint, avoid water seeping through it, which would spoil the base. And, importantly, the differences in cost can be neglected. After completing the work, the foundation is covered with a liquid-impervious material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but it will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using even and strong panels so that its appearance is perfect. Nails are hammered in strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, it will be much more difficult to remove the shields. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about outlets for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not immediately provided, then it will be necessary to hollow and violate the quality of the monolith.

Put strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under the bath from the frame, it is quite acceptable if the fertile layer of soil is taken out and replaced with sprinkled sand.

Both a monolithic solution and a shallow structure, and a non-buried base must be protected from the force of frost heaving. For this use:

drainage means;
side edges;
insulation around the blind area;
removal of heaving soils with their replacement with sand or crushed stone.

Shallow depth belts should not be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed below. A properly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; such a step will make the basement part of the structure optimal, it will be possible to form both the overlap of the beams and the dirt floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by placing special racks that will be fixed by the upper strapping. In the intervals between them, other racks are added. They will make the bath stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, attached to the screws. Consistently assembling the details, they form the final design.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are mounted immediately, without waiting for the complete completion of work.

In most frame baths, floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers may well get by with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on a bar with a section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the lags, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the lags of the finishing decks are corrected taking into account the thermal insulation layer created.

As for the basic materials, all long-serving types of wood are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But poplar and other soft wood are unacceptable. Before buying and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should come from the same kiln-dried lot.

It is desirable to make a finishing flooring from an edged or tongue-and-groove board, since it does not need to be further polished, but draft base it may also be uncircumcised.

alternative wooden structures often protrudes self-leveling floor. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling floor can be considered:

integrity of the created coating;
high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
zero level of fire danger;
absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
care is much easier than for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, the self-leveling floor finally hardens only after a few days, when you can walk on the wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such a coating is very high. Any bath floors are recommended to be made with a slope towards the drain, this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be done horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to perform, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

The self-leveling floor cannot be simply “poured”: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree, you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it rapidly loses fluidity, and if this happens before the end of work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, the floors are poured together.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front skin is made on the basis of lining or chipboard. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under outer skin. Only then is a heater used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and safe in terms of fire. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A year-round building should have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. Polyethylene film is considered the best solution for it.

Painting wall sheathing, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because even the safest paint and varnish vapors can be harmful to health. When thinking over the design of the walls, special attention is paid to how ventilation ducts will pass through them and electric wires. Since flammable materials are used for exterior decoration, and air is often present excess moisture, it is worth giving preference to closed, thoroughly insulated cable channels.

If the rooms are finished with boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers, with a larger one, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of the frame bath are gradually laid and assembled together directly on the site. The farm should stand on the prepared frame base. To simplify the work on creating a roof, placing it on a rough boardwalk helps. An exemplary pie always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counter beam is filled with a vapor barrier. The crate must be attached to the beam.

Then it's time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest shed roof, which is performed quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose absolutely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work competently and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions turn out to be 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. With the right calculation, a covering with one slope will last for many years and all this time it will be extremely convenient to use.

flat roofs do-it-yourself baths are not recommended. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation with natural weakness absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a shed roof should be located under a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. Under this condition, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend.

There are two ways to create a slope: intentionally making the walls uneven in height or installing racks. With the second option, the material is spent less, but the heat will keep worse.

Roofers with experience know for sure that as the angle of the roof decreases, it is necessary to use more and more smooth facial materials. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even best solutions do not allow to get rid of the formed puddles and drifts of snow. Mauerlat is formed from a coniferous timber with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm. Outside, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing (lubricated with mastic or wrapped with roofing material). Rafters are made exclusively from flat boards with a section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hardwoods.

With such dimensions, an optimal margin of safety is achieved and it remains possible to mount insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. For your information: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for power plates, which are fastened with nails or metal overlays. The crate is attached to the legs of the rafters at a right angle.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, an inextricable crate based on moisture-resistant plywood is necessarily created.

In other cases, they put lattices of slats, their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness should be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover the baths with pitched roofs ondulin, corrugated board, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is required to lay a slab or roll insulation. Regardless, use:

hydrophobic film;
flame retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
fasteners of a special sample;
carefully selected and tested tools.

Shed type roofs should be supported by rafters spaced in 0.5-0.8 m increments. roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including caps made of synthetic rubber. These tops help block water seepage. If there is no specialized fastener, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the pediments are sewn up, the drain is equipped - this completes the external work on the frame bath.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not work to be limited to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Exterior wall decoration helps developers and designers to express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to sheathe them with siding, clapboard. Slightly in popularity, these materials are inferior to the block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the draft walls. They should not even have minor cracks, the skin joints should fit snugly against each other. With the help of vinyl siding, you can create a variety of visual pictures: and imitation simple tree, and a "brick" wall, and something high-tech in spirit. Performing just as well plastic panels, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bath to the limit, you should choose a block house.

In the case of choosing a lining, it is required to withstand several days in order for acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than from the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials, their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. Dressing rooms are trimmed with both hardwood and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose the color as calm and balanced as possible, given the purpose of the bath.

photos

Washing departments covered with clapboard, pre-impregnated with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. In the steam room there is no place for coniferous wood, with the exception of cedar. Among the hardwood varieties, the first place is invariably linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term operation. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a bath brick oven with the help of tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. Tiles should not be hung on masonry, they should rest on the base of the stove. Simple plastering should be abandoned, it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. Good results sometimes bring the use of decorative stone.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is delivered to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

photos

Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of stale air will not give anyone pleasure. All these problems are solved with the use of carefully thought-out ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at about the same distance below the ceiling.

It is possible to equip the outlet at the bottom only when using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The cold air inlet can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected with ventilation. outdoor air or other premises. For baths built into the house, forced ventilation must always be used.

What to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bath. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Due to the large amount of air inside, they perfectly retain heat, and heat melting allows you not to be afraid of a fire. Often frame wall it is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally safe and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness, resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation is allowed to be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be covered from contact with water and water vapor. Wet heaters quickly deteriorate and lose their positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating furnaces and their surroundings involves the use of various materials asbestos. It can be used in the form of plates or canvases. But given the danger of asbestos fibers for humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

basalt fiber;
isolon;
needle-punched mats.

The heat in the bath can go not only through the walls; most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. In wall insulation, it is used less and less, because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available counterparts. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in terms of heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer grows. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

Insulation has a rather long history frame buildings sawdust. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but putting such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood chips are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. AT major city sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but there the price level is even higher than at sawmills.

For work will do only hardwood shavings. The maximum allowable humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust at construction sites has not been used for a long time, because they settle and form voids, a fungus may appear inside.

Be sure to process raw materials boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Bulk laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binders, then the composition is poured into wood molds over which the floor is laid. The base is protected from moisture with kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area, it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what the design looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. In front of the door there is a kind of platform, on which you need to climb a small staircase. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of the building. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

With proper execution, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. The modern approach to baths often involves the use of minimalist style. A striking example presented in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-trimmed walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, moreover, in as soon as possible. Using any of the presented varieties of washing is easy and convenient.

If own bath until now only in dreams, it's time to leave them and move on to action. In fact, everyone can build a bathhouse in their yard. The main thing is to know in what sequence and what actions to perform. The article will provide step-by-step instructions that will allow you to do everything yourself.

Drafting a project

No building is complete without good project. With regard to the bath, you will need to think about the number of rooms. A steam room will be obligatory for a bath. Its size will depend on the desired number of people who will be in it at the same time. If it is possible to make a steam room in a bath with a size of 3 × 2, then you can be sure that six people can easily fit in it. In addition to the steam room, a rest room is needed in the bath. Usually it occupies the largest space in terms of area. In this room in the bath, as a rule, they install the necessary furniture for a comfortable pastime.

Another room that is necessary for a bath is a washing room. It can accommodate a shower and a bathroom. This room does not require a large area. If you separate the bathroom, then the washing room can be an intermediate link between the rest room and the steam room in the bath. It is also worth providing a hallway or dressing room in the bath. He will provide air cushion, which will prevent the rapid release of heat.

Step-by-step instruction

The step-by-step instructions describe the entire assembly process of the future structure, indicating the nuances and practical tips. Any construction begins with the construction of the foundation.

Foundation

The frame structure is lightweight due to its features. This means that for such a bath it makes no sense to fill in a slab or strip foundation. An excellent solution would be to use screw piles. They are metal pipes, at the end of which there is a small drill. Thanks to the drill, the piles can be easily immersed in the ground to the required depth. The length of the piles should be such that its lower part can pass through heaving soils and fix below the freezing level of the soil. At the same time, her top part must protrude above the surface at a given distance.

Some craftsmen do not recommend marking for screw piles, which will serve as the foundation for the bath. The argument is that it is quite simple to orient the position of the piles for the bath relative to the fence or other structure. If the construction of a bath is carried out in an open area, then marking for piles is indispensable. The photo above shows how this can be done. According to the developed bath project, the dimensions are transferred to the site where the construction will be carried out.

Pegs indicate the places where piles should be screwed. The distance between the piles should be 1.5-2 meters. Everything will depend on the applied load, i.e. on total weight buildings. After the markup, one of the corners of the bath is selected, in which the first pile will be mounted.

To simplify your installation task, you need to make a pit. The depth of the pit should not be less than the diameter of the pile screw. It will help start the rotation and deepening of the screw pile.

The photo above shows that for quality installation three people are needed. Two carry out twisting with the help of levers, and the third holds the pile in a vertical position. At the same time, the use of a magnetic level to track the vertical position is not yet required, since the pile does not have a strong fixation in the ground.

After the pile is firmly planted in the ground, you can fix the magnetic level. The photo above shows that it is fixed perpendicular to how the levers for twisting are located.

Two people continue to twist the pile, and the third monitors its position in level. Thus, it is necessary to fix all the corner piles of the foundation for the bath. After that, two ropes are stretched between the piles, as shown in the upper photographs. They form a figurative channel into which the rest of the piles will be mounted according to the markings that have been applied. Piles are required not only for the main walls, but also for partition walls. After the piles are installed in their place, it is necessary to align them.

To solve this problem, you can use the hydraulic level. It is first necessary to expose one of the piles so that it is a control one. A mark is applied to it, which will be transferred to the rest of the piles. One part of the level is applied to the control point, and the second to the opposite corner pile. As soon as the water inside the level has ceased to fluctuate, a mark can be applied.

To transfer the markup to the rest of the piles, there is no need to approach them with a level. It is necessary to stretch the fishing line between the extreme piles so that it touches the intermediate supports. After that, a mark is made on the line. According to the marks, the supports are trimmed. Next, a metal square with a side of 25 cm is welded onto them. It is necessary to hold the lower trim of the structure.

Next is the strapping for the bath. To do this, you need a wooden beam with a size of 15 × 15 cm. It is laid on prepared sites on piles for a frame bath. The photo above shows how the individual elements are connected at the corners. It is necessary to make a slot half the thickness of the timber, and also cut out a part that will be equal to its width. It turns out a recess with a size of 15 × 15 cm. The same procedure is repeated for the second log. After that, they are connected to each other and fastened.

The photo above shows how to deal with the strapping for the partition walls. A similar recess is made, but already in the middle of the beam. After that, the second part is laid on top and fixed. The result should be something like the one shown in the photo below.

Waterproofing is laid between the metal platform and the beam. Be sure to check the diagonals so that the walls at the frame bath turn out to be even. If the beam for the foundation of the bath has to be increased, then this is done in the same way as the connection of two elements and always on a pile so that there is the required emphasis.

After assembling the strapping, SIP panels are laid, which will act as an insulated subfloor. The panels are screwed to the bath piping with self-tapping screws, this is done for temporary fixation. The panels sag quite easily under weight, so they need to be reinforced with a beam, as shown in the photo below.

In order for the beam to be well fixed in the SIP panel, it is necessary to apply mounting foam. A gap of 5 mm is left between the individual panels, which acts as a thermal seam.

Wall assembly

The next step in the construction of the frame bath will be the assembly of the walls. For these purposes, you will need an edged board with a size of 15 × 5 cm. Such a structure is assembled from it, as shown in the photo below.

The distance between the individual vertical posts is equal to the width of the insulation that will be used for the bath. When the assembly is completed, the wall frame for the bath is installed. Separate elements are temporarily attached with jibs, as seen in the photo below.

The finished design looks similar to the one shown in the photo below.

It is worth noting that the places where window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with vertical and horizontal struts.

Roof

An excellent solution for a bath would be a shed roof. Its equipment is somewhat cheaper and also simpler than a gable. In the photo below, you can see that the truss system has three support points.

Rafter legs are located in increments of 60 cm from each other and are fixed to the upper elements of the wall. To achieve the required roof slope, it is necessary to calculate in advance the height of all walls so that an angle is formed between them. The angle of the roof slope for a bath is determined individually for each project. Much depends on the meteorological conditions in a particular area, as well as on the type of flooring chosen. If it is a metal tile, then the minimum slope should be 16 degrees.

The photo above shows that the front wall had to be slightly raised. To increase its strength, jibs were installed on the sides. Roof overhangs are made in front and behind so that water flows down unhindered. Waterproofing, control lathing and lathing under the roofing deck and the roofing deck itself are fixed to the rafter legs. A video of the construction of such a bath can be viewed below.

Warming and finishing

Due to the fact that SIP panels are laid on the floor, it does not require insulation. Finishing the floor is carried out at the request of the owner. A warm floor can be mounted on it and a screed is poured on top or a laminate is laid. Walls require a special approach to insulation. First of all on outside the walls of the bath are waterproofed so that water does not get on the insulation.

In the prepared gaps that were left between the racks in the walls of the bath, a heater is installed. An excellent option for a bath would be mineral wool. It has a certain vapor permeability, which will contribute to the partial air exchange of the bath and the street. The insulation should be inserted with little effort so that it is well fixed inside. After the installation of the insulation, the vapor barrier of the bath rooms is performed. For a steam room in a bath, you will need thick foil, as shown in the photo below.

From the inside, the walls of the bath can be finished with a clapboard, and a block house will look better from the outside.

Installation of both the first and second versions of the material for the bath is carried out on a wooden crate. After facing, the arrangement of the bath is carried out. An oven is installed in the steam room, interior doors. If the bath is to be used all year round, then you should think about an autonomous heating system. Additionally, you can build a small terrace where you can spend time with friends.

Summary

As you can see, the construction of a frame bath has its own difficulties. Some stages of the construction of a frame bath can not do without the help of a partner. An important stage of construction is the supply of various communications. They include plumbing, sewerage and electricity. All wires inside the frame bath must be double-braided and non-combustible corrugation laid. Moisture-resistant lamps are used for the steam room in the bath. To minimize the consumption of electricity in the bath, it is possible to provide for the use LED lamps. As windows for the bath, you can use metal-plastic frames with wood trim. They will cost a little more, but they will look quite harmonious.