How to lay tiles on the wall: do-it-yourself tiles with photo instructions. How to lay tiles on the wall correctly: a master class on facing the bathroom Laying small tiles with your own hands

Ceramic tiles are traditionally laid in rooms with high humidity such as kitchen, bathroom and toilet. True, in recent years the scope of its application has expanded significantly due to the appearance of underfloor heating and great choice beautiful and high-quality samples of ceramics. Walls or floors covered with tiles, due to the strength and wear resistance of this material, retain an attractive appearance. long years. Nevertheless, there comes a time when, when carrying out repairs, you want to completely update the interior of the apartment, for example, change the wallpaper, install new lamps and, of course, put new tile. Or, if you have purchased a new home, this is the first time you have to do this in it.

Figure 1. Marking various kinds tiles.

This is where the question arises: lay the tiles yourself or hire a qualified craftsman? The cost of high-quality tiles is quite high, but the work of a professional will cost about the same. Therefore, any home master with experience in construction will most likely prefer to do this work on their own. In fact, knowing certain rules, put ceramic tiles on the walls or on the floor is not so difficult. The skill will appear during work. If the only tool that you are reasonably proficient with is a computer mouse, then it is better to trust a professional.

How to take preliminary measurements

Before purchasing tiles for cladding, it is necessary to calculate the amount that will be required for repairs. To do this, you will need to measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls or floor on which it will be glued. To measure, if there is no laser level, you will need an ordinary tape measure and a pencil.

Figure 2. Classification of tiles by wear resistance.

First, you need to check how correct forms has a room. To do this, the walls are measured diagonally. If the corners in the room are not straight, the walls will have to be leveled, which will increase or decrease the size of the room. You should take this into account and make an adjustment in the calculations. When measuring a wall in length, the tape measure is pulled strictly horizontally. When measuring height - exactly vertically. Otherwise, the wall area in the calculations will be slightly larger than the real one.

Floors are also measured diagonally, only in this case they calculate the number and location of the tiles that will have to be cut to cover the entire floor area. This is if you have already chosen a tile and its dimensions are known. If not, this will help to choose its optimal size. If the floor is planned to be made with a slope, measurements are taken at the appropriate angle. You can, for example, pick up a rail of the desired height as a template to create the desired angle.

Now, armed with measurement data, you can proceed to the preparation of a preliminary laying scheme, counting Supplies and budgeting.

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Preparation of materials and tools

We won’t talk about what shade to choose a tile for walls or what color to lay ceramic tiles on the floor, it’s up to you. The main thing is that tiles for walls and floors have, as a rule, different properties, mainly wear resistance, that is, resistance to abrasion. In addition, if smooth glossy or glazed tiles are usually glued to the walls, then tiles with a rough, non-slip surface are more suitable for the floor.

Tools for laying tiles: spatula, scraper, spacer.

The purpose of the tile is indicated on the packaging with icons:

• in the form of a hand - for walls;
• in the form of a foot - for the floor.

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Markings for different types of tiles can be seen in fig. 1. When purchasing a tile for a particular purpose, you must carefully study all the markings on the box.

A foot on a shaded background indicates increased wear resistance of the tile. Wear resistance is conditionally divided into 5 groups, from PEI 0 to PEI V. Wall tiles laid on the floor will not last long. The classification of tiles according to wear resistance can be seen in Fig. 2.

• glue "Universal";
• glue "Superpolymer";
• glue for porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles and others.

Diluted adhesive has good adhesion to concrete, plaster, brick. After gluing, the tile is stable on a vertical surface, does not slip. In addition, the mixture can be used to level walls and other surfaces.

In some cases, concrete and plaster mixes, putties and impregnations. But each case requires separate consideration.

In addition, for preparatory work and laying tiles, it is advisable to have on hand:

• perforator;
• screwdriver or drill with a mixer;
• tile cutter or grinder with a diamond segmented disc;
• diamond crowns;
• ax, hammer, chisel, pull out;
• levels, long and short;
• construction plumb line, lace;
• trowel, rule;
• spatulas simple, rubber and comb;
• rubber mallet;
• containers for glue, putty, etc.;
• roller

For tiles, you will need to prepare crosses, corners. Crosses are usually used no more than 2 mm thick. To work with walls, a drywall profile may come in handy.

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Preparation of surfaces for cladding

In order for the tile to lay correctly, a flat, solid surface is required.

This requirement is true for both walls and floors. The surface of the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of old tiles, wallpaper, paint, dirt and greasy stains. Extra coatings in the form of linoleum, wood, etc. are removed from the floor. If necessary, a new concrete screed is made.

Cleaning the walls of wallpaper and old tiles is not a particular problem. Wallpaper is soaked warm water and removed with a spatula. For old tiles, you will have to add a chisel, hammer and ax to the spatula. The hardest part is removing the paint. There is no single solution here, chemical solvents and heating with a hairdryer are associated with unpleasant and harmful fumes. A grinder with a disc or cord brush raises too much dust for a living space. You can use a rotary hammer with a wide blade, included in the impact, or a rotary hammer with homemade nozzle from the chains at the end of the bolt, which beat off the paint as it rotates.

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Therefore, sometimes, if the wall is even, the paint is not completely removed, but a frequent notch is made with a hammer and hatchet, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive to the wall. But this is not the most correct option.

The cleaned wall is checked with a plumb line fixed under the ceiling in the corner. The deviation of the wall should not exceed 2 mm for each m in height. The same can be done with a long level. With the same level or rule, you can check the wall horizontally. All deviations from the plane must be eliminated plaster mortar under the rule. It is desirable to treat the walls in the bathroom with waterproofing mastic.

The floor surface under the tile is first thoroughly cleaned of debris, chips and cracks are found. The floor plane is checked with a long level, deviations are found in the same way as on the wall, only horizontally. Defects are removed with cement mortar. But often you have to take the floor to a new level, to the height of the floor of the next room.

If you need to remove the elements of an old damaged screed, you can use a puncher.

Along the perimeter of the room, mark the height of the new screed in order to bring the floor, taking into account glue and tiles, to the desired level. It is more convenient to use for this laser level.

If necessary, beacons are set up and a new screed is poured under the rule, horizontally or at an angle.

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Moving on to flooring

Before you start gluing the tiles on the floor, we dilute the glue. To dilute the dry mixture, water is first poured into the bucket, then the mixture is added in the proportions indicated on the package. The glue is thoroughly mixed with a drill or screwdriver with a mixer until the desired consistency is obtained. Usually, you quickly begin to determine the amount of the mixture by eye. When mixing by hand, this must be done especially carefully, stirring the solution to the very bottom.

The plan for gluing tiles must be drawn up in advance, whether the tiles will be laid in a straight line or diagonally, whether friezes will be used, where the trim will fit. At diagonal laying the surface of the tile can be drawn diagonally with a paraffin pencil. So, it will be more convenient to align it. At the entrance to the room and in the center, the tile should be intact, the trimming is placed in less noticeable places, or where the furniture will hide it.

If the floor is well leveled with a screed, it is not necessary to install beacon tiles. Otherwise, the first beacon tile is placed on the glue at the highest place and seated with a rubber mallet, it is set at a short level. The next beacon is placed at a distance of a long level according to the same principle.

First, in accordance with the developed plan, the whole tile is laid. The adhesive is applied to the floor surface and leveled with a comb for 1 - 3 tiles at once. Each tile is lightly seated with a mallet or by hand in its absence and leveled with a short level. A long level checks the horizontalness of the entire row, especially if work is going on beacons.

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If the tile is too deep, it is better to pull it out immediately, add glue directly to it, level it with a comb and put it back in place. If it seems to you that there is a void under the tile, it is better to remove it too in order to avoid problems in the future. Crosses are placed between the tiles, if necessary, the tiles can be knocked out from the end with a mallet to align the row. With a cross, you can immediately clean the seam between the tiles.

You can use a manual tile cutter to cut tiles. After making several movements with the roller, press on the handle, and the tile breaks off at the place of the cut. Floor tiles, especially porcelain stoneware, are quite hard to cut, so according to the plan, it is better to immediately reduce the number of cuts.

Probably, no renovation is complete without tiles. Ceramics has many advantages over others finishing materials in many situations. And when it comes to decorating the bathroom, then tiles are absolutely the leader. However, laying tiles is not a cheap pleasure, and it is also a terribly interesting activity. These factors provoke many home craftsmen to work with their own hands. Practice, if possible, should be preceded by theory, so we tried to make the article give an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to lay tiles on a wall.

We do not consider floor cladding here, but we assure you that if you master laying tiles on the wall, the floor will seem like an easy base. Vertical surfaces involve fighting gravity, having to deal with complex geometries, and taking into account many more parameters. However, it is not the gods who burn the tiles, and it is also not the inhabitants of Olympus who are engaged in tiling ...

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Surface preparation

Ceramics can be laid on two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special cases and have nothing to do with everyday construction tasks. Substrate preparation depends on the type of mortar. Having given preference to glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or sheathed with drywall. In any case, the base plane should tend to the ideal.

Gypsum plaster Knauf Holtband Beacon profiles are leveled in a flat plane and fixed to the mortar. The plaster is applied to the wall and smoothed out according to the beacons.

We drill channels for pipes.
We bring pipes for the bath and hide them in the wall.

Tool

Wall cladding requires a special tool. Make sure you already have:

• trowel or spatula;
• comb (notched trowel);
• bubble level;
• hydraulic level or laser;
• wire cutters;
• tile cutter;
• rule 1.5 m;
• grinder with a diamond wheel;
• tile crosses / wedges;
• foam sponge;
• rubber spatula.

Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list, it is understood that they already exist in every household. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with a nozzle, so its presence is also desirable. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.

markup

The basic rule of facing: visually important places should be given a whole tile. The lot of the cut tile is located where it will be less visible or hidden. Calculate the number of slabs before leveling the base. You may need to level a little more if the geometry calls for too small a piece of tile in the corner. It is better to lose a little in the area than to admire for many years a two-centimeter "stub". If the corners are visually equal, it may be worth reducing the trimming to the edges, and the same. Although there are certain design rules here, in fact, the taste of the owner puts the point in question.

The vertical layout is based on the whole tile at the top rule. But, again, there are exceptions, so use common sense. Do not forget to take into account the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as slab joints. Over a large area, with seeming insignificance, the latter play an important role, accumulating in total up to several centimeters.

• "seam to seam";
• scatter;
• diagonally;

It is unlikely that you will start with the last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates brickwork, gluing tiles in this way is the easiest. The most popular type is the first, it requires careful observance of vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
Good video about the correct layout:

Gluing, as a rule, should be started from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover the floor tiles with wall tiles:

• it looks better;
• water flowing from the walls does not flow into the contour seams;
• cutting wall ceramics is much easier;

If you have already laid the floor (although this sequence is not according to the rules), start laying the tiles on the wall from the very bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without trimming.
Having decided on the lighthouse row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using a water level. The presence of a laser will facilitate the work, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. Plastic tubing is much cheaper, and if you don't have to lay tiles in a large area, forget about the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the work of the hydraulic level.

Mark the horizon immediately around the perimeter, make sure that there will be no trouble with possible cutting around the pipes. Sometimes it is necessary to shift the marks to avoid a difficult cut. Further on the marks you can:

• pull the beacon cord;
• draw a solid line

The first option is still preferable, as it gives you full control over the horizon and the plane. We make a reservation that wall cladding for mortar involves only this item. Plumb lines will help control the vertical or, much more often, when tiling with glue, the same line, but already along the Y axis.

To prevent the tiles from sliding down, we fasten the profile 27x28 mm according to the marks. In this bathtub, a uniform layout from the center is chosen so that 2 identical undercuts are obtained along the edges.

Laying tiles

You need to glue on a tile adhesive that matches the task. Do-it-yourself kneading does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile with a spatula. After application, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of grooves will remain on the surface. Choose a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

After a day, the support bar is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.

Tile cutting

When tiling with your own hands, you can do without expensive cutting tools. If there is a tile cutter - good, no - use a glass cutter or a scriber with a victorious solder. Mark the cutting line, fix the plate on a flat surface and draw along the line several times with the tool. Next, you need to put the tile with cutting marks on a couple of nails and gently press - you have a finished trim. If you use a tile cutter, run the roller once, repetitions lead to marriage.

In this way, they cut straight, but tiling the walls also involves curly cut. Cut holes for the pipes with a grinder with a diamond wheel. If there are few holes, but there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated canvas. But this is a labor-intensive and long process, and is justified only economically.

Grouting

After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed with a special compound. The grout is applied to a rubber spatula and the gaps between the plates are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and craftsmanship, 1-4 square meters are processed in one approach. The remains are removed with a foam sponge. With it, the filler is brought to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly over the seams.

Do-it-yourself wall cladding that you mastered on basic level requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:

• Before laying the tile, check its quality, geometry and calibration. Sort by size to make it easier to get even seams.
• Carefully prepare the surface, do not spare the primer and observe right angles.
• Use on outside corners. Although it is not so beautiful, it is safe.
• Glue the tiles on a dry surface.

Costs

Costs for facing a bathroom with an area of ​​3.5 m²:

• 2 guide profiles 27x28 mm - 90 rubles.
• (25 kg x 3 pcs) - 717 rubles.
• Soil strengthening Plitonit 1 l. - 98 rub.
• 300 pieces of plastic crosses 2 mm - 60 rubles.
• Grout Kiilto 3 kg - 320 rubles.
• Self-tapping screws, dowels - 20 rubles.

Total laying cost us 1305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work (plaster). If you are doing wall cladding with your own hands, you will need to invest in the missing tools. For wall cladding in a bathroom of such an area, the tiler will take at least 13-15 thousand rubles, along with grout. Buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of the master and calmly drink tea during styling - everyone will decide for himself.

Laying tiles on the floor is an extremely popular solution for decorating many rooms. However, not everyone knows that you can lay tiles different ways, and in the process of working with different bases, certain nuances must be taken into account. Consider how to lay tiles on the floor: laying methods, technology features and the specifics of choosing the right material.

Many owners give a large number of time and attention to the choice of a suitable finishing material, focusing on its color, texture and size. Of course, it is extremely important to choose a tile right size so that it is commensurate with the room, but the question of choosing the installation method should also not be left aside. Consider all popular options.

The traditional way of laying tiles on the floor: rules and features

The traditional method got its name because it is used many times more often than all the others. Such popularity is due to the ease of installation, as well as the ability to use both square tiles and rectangular shape. In this case, the elements are laid in even rows parallel to the floor. At the same time, it is extremely important to place them as close as possible to each other and to observe an even arrangement of rows.

Helpful advice! To give the traditional way of laying an unusual look, you can use multi-colored tiles. This option will make the coating original, but at the same time it will allow you to maintain a high speed of all necessary work.

Despite all its simplicity, this method, like others, has certain nuances that must be taken into account even before laying work begins:

• all defects, irregularities and other factory defects will be very noticeable if the tiles are laid in this way. Therefore, you must either carefully examine each element and eliminate inappropriate ones, or choose another, less demanding method;
• if the lining is made with tiles of the same color, then the coating will look rather monotonous. This is not to say that this is a disadvantage, but it is worth considering;
• this option is well suited only for seamless ceramic tiles.

While laying tiles on the floor traditional way it may well be carried out independently and in the absence of special skills, you still have to pay attention to the issue of masonry uniformity, as well as the size of the seams (both vertical and horizontal).

How to lay tiles diagonally: the most beautiful way of laying

Laying tiles on the floor diagonally can rightfully be called the most beautiful of all options. But at the same time, the technology of its laying is the most complex, although at first glance it may seem that the basis is a simple traditional way. The main difficulty in this case is that it is necessary to accurately mark the diagonal axes, which will serve as guidelines for laying out the tiles.

Moreover, it takes a lot of time and effort correct cutting tiles, which also presents additional difficulties in the process of laying tiles in this way. However, thanks to this method, it is possible to hide almost any surface irregularity. This option looks especially good when facing the floor of small rooms.

Important! During installation, the grid of the pattern must be placed at a 45 degree angle, so only tiles are suitable for this method. square shape. This must be taken into account before you lay the tiles in the bathroom yourself in this way.

Interestingly, the drawing itself is quite self-sufficient, and even if a plain tile is used, it always looks extremely interesting. But before laying tiles in this way, you need to understand that in the process you always get a lot of scraps. And this may not please the economical owner who does not want to overpay for beauty, but if we are talking about the need to visually expand the room or hide irregularities, then this method is undoubtedly the best.

As already mentioned, the main difficulty of this method is the calculation of the diagonal scheme. In addition, a thorough surface preparation must be carried out by dismantling the old coating, removing paint residues and priming the base before laying the tiles. So you can arrange the tiles as evenly as possible, spending less adhesive solution on this.

Laying the first row is done in the traditional way and for this, rectangular tiles are used. At the same time, the length of its diagonal must correspond to the diagonal of the square tiles that will be used as the main ones. Laying the second row is done using pre-prepared tiled triangles. Further, everything is quite simple - the rows are stacked according to the principle of diagonal layout in horizontal rows.

The technology of laying tiles on the floor with an offset (in a run)

Perhaps most of all, this method resembles brickwork. This solution looks original and is used quite often. In this case, a plain rectangular tile will look best in this case, although you can often find the use of square tiles.

If, when choosing how to lay tiles in the bathroom, you preferred this option, then with its help you can solve two more additional problems- hide minor defects, as well as make the design of the floor interesting and original. And when correct selection color solution, tiles laid in a run-up can give the room a special atmosphere. According to the recommendations of experts, this method is best suited for decorating rooms such as a kitchen or a corridor.

As for the features of the very technology of laying tiles on the floor, it is important to know that the tiles must be laid in horizontal rows, moreover, each element next row must be located so that its middle coincides with the seam of the previous row.

Important! It cannot be said that the laying procedure itself is something significantly different from the traditional one, however, there is one feature - the thickness of all seams must be the same.

As unusual solution you can consider examples when laying with an offset is done diagonally, that is, at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the wall. But in this case, it is extremely important to take care that the surface is prepared in advance and is as even as possible. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be achieved.

You need to start laying with the location of the lighthouse plates in the corners of the room. So it will be possible to determine the level of the floor and correct the existing defects. After that, the screed is moistened with water and proceed directly to laying tiles using a solution. They do it in rows and along the lighthouse.

Then the masonry is leveled with a hammer, and the lighthouse slabs are removed. After complete drying, which can take from two to three days, the seams are filled with a grout or cement.

How to lay tiles on the floor "herringbone": options and technology

Laying method floor covering"herringbone" is most often used for parquet. This option looks very unusual, especially if you use non-oblong wooden elements, but a tile. Naturally, only rectangular tiles are suitable for this purpose.

There are two options for laying herringbone tiles:

• simple, which is no different from how it is done in the case of laying parquet;
• with an attachment, for which additional tiles-inserts are not used big size. Often use elements of a different color or mosaic.

Speaking about the fact that this method was originally intended for laying parquet, we can conclude that such a coating will look best if its surface imitates wood. But for a tile that looks like a stone, this option is not very suitable, since it looks rather unnatural in the end.

An example of a successful use of the ceramic herringbone laying method

In order to get the desired result and lay the tiles in a herringbone pattern, it is necessary to rotate the elements to the right or left during the laying process, depending on the diagonal position of the tiles. The amount of waste in this case will be minimal, and the visual effect is amazing.

How to lay tiles on the floor: modular installation

Modular installation is a great solution for those who are new to tiling. At the same time, the method allows you to decorate the surface as the owner wishes. It is enough just to think about how to lay the tiles in the bathroom on the floor, design a suitable pattern and make some necessary calculations.

A modular pattern will be an excellent solution for small rooms, especially since you can choose the right color and pattern yourself, taking into account the features of the interior. It is advisable to make as accurate a drawing as possible, which includes an indication of the size of the tiles, as well as the location of the joints.

Helpful advice! If you don’t want to develop the project yourself, you can purchase a ready-made tile set and a diagram that demonstrates in detail how to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

The simplest solution is to use a modular effect, when many small elements of various formats are depicted on one large tile. In this case, the main thing is to observe the principle of the model grid - the same pattern must be repeated many times. Given this, you can independently decide how to lay out the tiles in the bathroom in a beautiful and original way.

How to lay tiles on the floor in an original way: the "maze" method

The “maze” method, or as it is also called “braiding”, can be performed in various ways, but in the end it always gives the impression of intertwined stripes, inside of which there is a square of a different color or shade.

In order to lay out the intertwining stripes of the pattern, you need to use rectangular tiles, and for the inside - smaller square elements.

Helpful advice! In order not to be mistaken with the size of the tile when buying, it is best to immediately fold one of the elements of the pattern in the store. This way you can make sure that all the elements match and look good together.

This method looks decent in any room, but when it comes to laying tiles on the bathroom floor, then this option can be called ideal. Even with a small area of ​​​​the room and the absence of a window, the right shade of yellow in combination with such a pattern can create a backlight effect and make the bathroom lighter and more comfortable.

Related article:

Stages of preparation and laying tiles. Complexities and features of the process. Creation of the base and screed. Insulation and waterproofing of the coating.

You can also consider how to lay porcelain stoneware on the floor. With the use of this material, this pattern also looks very attractive.

Laying tiles on the floor "Deck": technology and features

The "Deck" method is undeservedly used in flooring not as often as others. After all, in fact, this way of laying the coating perfectly imitates the deck board, which brings a certain mood to the interior. In this case, the tiles are laid with an offset and it is extremely important that the distance is the same throughout the floor plane without exception.

You can see that this method is somewhat similar to brickwork. This is true, except for the fact that the elements should not be displaced by half of each tile, but only by a small segment of it.

It is worth paying attention to the choice of color and structure of the coating. By opting for a tile that imitates wood and does not have an unglazed finish, you can create a very convincing semblance of a wooden floor.

Tiles with imitation of natural wood are often used when laying the "Deck" method

How to lay floor tiles using the "Carpet" method

"Carpet" is one of the most sophisticated options for laying tiles on the floor, which provides the opportunity to decorate the room in accordance with the theme of the interior, as well as your own preferences. The essence of this method is that two, three or more colors of the tile are used, as well as a border that frames this pattern around the perimeter.

How complex and beautiful "carpet" you can create depends solely on your imagination, as well as skills in working with tools and materials. It is best to use this method on a fairly large area of ​​​​the room, for example, in a hall or bathroom of impressive size.

How to lay ceramic floor tiles using the Kaleidoscope method

One of the most unusual ways how to lay tiles in the kitchen - "Kaleidoscope". Just like the previous version, it allows you to independently come up with a pattern that will decorate the room. But here it is extremely important to strictly adhere to the plan, since it is very easy to get confused in the elements. It is best to pre-draw the floor surface in an appropriate way, thus facilitating your work.

When using the Kaleidostop method, you can use multi-colored tiles with different patterns

Important! Another difficulty of this method is the need to prepare in advance ideally level ground, since all the bumps will be very noticeable.

As you can see, laying tiles on the floor is an art that will take time and attention to detail to understand. So it's worth considering everything existing options, and having decided on your own capabilities and preferences, proceed to the implementation of the chosen method of laying floor tiles.

Before proceeding to consider the features of laying tiles on various grounds, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the recommendations provided by experts. According to the statements, taking into account these simple tips, you can significantly extend the life of the coating, making it as durable and reliable as possible:

• preparation of an even foundation is the main task to be solved;
• the prepared surface must be vacuumed again immediately before laying;
• adhesive composition, which will be used to fix the tile, must be selected taking into account the level of humidity in the room in which to work;

Before you should take care of the quality of the base

• for any method that is more complicated than traditional or diagonal, it is advisable to mark on the floor;
• for complex patterns, the tiles must be cut in advance and then laid out on a floor surface covered with a cloth in order to look at the result before starting to apply the mortar;
• at easy way laying can start from the corner, but in the case of most complex patterns, you need to find and designate the center of the room;
• liquid preparations for pre-treatment of the base - ideal to provide the tile with a more secure fixation;
• before proceeding to laying tiles, you need to wait for the impregnation to dry completely;
• grouting floor tiles can be started no earlier than the period indicated on the package, which is necessary for the adhesive to dry completely;
• the color should match or match the color of the tile to create a single beautiful flooring.

The basics of choosing and laying tiles in accordance with the interior of the room

Pick up the most suitable option tiled flooring You can by considering a few examples of finished interiors using this material. At the same time, it is important to understand that in residential premises, tiles are almost always combined with a heating system, because otherwise, walking on the floor in the cold season will be quite uncomfortable. You need to read and watch additional training videos on how to properly lay tiles in a bathroom that has an underfloor heating system.

If we are talking about laying floor tiles in the living room, then ideal option can become a coating that externally imitates a laminate. This is a suitable option for a modern interior that will harmoniously fit into a room of any size. AT large rooms it is better to give preference to calm, solid colors that will not make the floor too colorful and tiring to look at.

If you want to lay tiles on the floor in the bath, then due to the small area it is permissible to use brighter and more original colors. Do not forget that the selected color and texture of the coating can influence the perception of space. So, for example, a glossy surface of a light shade will expand the room, while a dark one will matte tiles will work the other way around.

Before laying tiles in the kitchen, you should make sure that the material chosen is not too easily soiled. In addition, you should not buy slippery tiles, because in the kitchen the flooring is constantly in contact with water, which can lead to dangerous situations.

How to lay tiles on the floor: features of working with various surfaces

Having familiarized yourself with the various ways of laying floor tiles and choosing the most suitable option for yourself, you can safely proceed to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the laying procedure. Given the considerable cost of laying tiles for square meter, many want to refuse the services of a specialist and do everything necessary on their own. To do this, first of all, you need to stock up on tools that may be required in the process of work:

• building level;
• hammer;
• glass cutter, or grinder;
• wire cutters;
• roulette;
• notched trowel;
• simple pencil;
• sponge and clean rags.

Helpful advice! It is worth taking care of the availability of personal protective equipment in advance and purchase, at a minimum, safety glasses that will protect your eyes from dust particles generated during the tile cutting process.

If during the installation process there is a need for curly cutting, for example, to bypass a riser or heating pipe, then a drill with a soldered hard alloy is used for this, as well as a string with an abrasive coating.

Also, in addition to the tile, you need to purchase special crosses that are used as separators, tile adhesive, grout, as well as sealant and silicone sealant. All this will allow you to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands.

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete floor: features of base preparation

The first point of the preparatory work that needs to be carried out before laying the floor tiles is the dismantling of the old coating and cleaning the surface of all existing stains: oil, paint, grease, etc. Then the existing base is checked using the building level, as well as visual assessments: if there is significant damage, potholes, cracks or deviations in height, then a new cement-sand screed must be made.

It is important that before gluing the tiles to the floor, the surface is hard and as even as possible. Otherwise, you will have to spend more glue on laying, and tiles laid on a soft base are much more susceptible to damage as a result of the load: cracks, chips, and simply falling off.

After you are convinced of the quality of the old screed or have made a new one, you should take care of laying the layer thermal insulation material. This will reduce heat loss and reduce the consumption of resources spent on heating. Another option is the arrangement of a heating system, which is the best solution of all possible.

In the second case, the thickness of the screed should be at least 40 mm, and to further strengthen the base, it is worth using a reinforcing mesh.

If concrete base is in an acceptable condition or for some reason it is impossible to make a new screed before laying the tiles in the bathroom, and you have to work with what is, then all the depressions can be smoothed out with cement mortar. But for protrusions, it is best to use a chisel, with which you can relatively easily knock off the interfering parts of the coating.

You can also use a grinder for leveling. And in order to ensure reliable adhesion of the base to the adhesive composition, it is necessary to first apply a layer of primer.

All of these methods of preparation are relevant for concrete structures or monolithic slabs. But laying tiles on a wooden floor is also possible. Consider how it is worth installing in this case.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor: features of surface preparation

For a wooden base, on which it is planned to lay a tile, the same requirements are imposed as in the case of concrete. First of all, the surface must be smooth and durable. The presence of old, worn or rotten boards is unacceptable, as it can lead to the fact that the tile covering at some point simply fails as a result of the destruction of the base. Therefore, all imperfect boards must be replaced.

Helpful advice! If a good, at first glance, board, as a result of the load, begins to “play”, then this defect can be eliminated by laying additional lags under it. Although in some cases it helps to simply replace the fasteners (nails or screws) with new ones. In any case, it is imperative to carry out an appropriate check before laying tiles on a wooden floor.

Another way to mount a solid and solid foundation for laying tiles in the case of working with a wooden floor involves the use chipboard sheets, OSB or plywood. In this case, it is very important that the material is resistant to moisture.

In the process of laying such an additional layer, it is necessary to leave gaps of approximately 5-8 mm between the sheets in order to allow the material to compensate for changes in air humidity without surface deformation. The laid out sheets are attached to the base with self-tapping screws and opened with a layer of primer before laying the tiles on the wooden floor.

Considering the fact that ceramic coating does not allow air to pass through and does not allow air to penetrate to the base, it is worth taking care of the presence internal ventilation so that an environment favorable for the growth and reproduction of harmful microorganisms is not created inside. Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is quite possible. The main thing is to pay due attention to the issue of preparing the base, and before laying the tile on the wooden floor, treat it with special protective equipment.

How to choose the right adhesive for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Regardless of the type of foundation, the laying technique is always the same. But the choice of a suitable adhesive composition should be approached with special attention, since depending on the surface on which it will be applied, its composition should be different. For a concrete floor, a cement-based adhesive must be used. In order to prepare it, it is necessary to add the amount of water specified by the manufacturer to the finished dry mixture.

A completely different glue is used when working with a wooden base. In this case, adhesive solution has the consistency of mastic, which, among other things, is able to compensate for deformations resulting from changes in the humidity of the air in the room.

Apply with a notched trowel reverse side facing material. In this case, grooves should form on the surface. Then the tile is pressed against the floor surface and gently tapped with a rubber mallet. You can learn more about how to glue tiles in the bathroom using one or another method of preparing the mixture from the photo or video instructions.

Rules for cutting and calculating tiles on the floor

It is practically impossible to lay tiles on the floor in such a way as to avoid trimming and fitting the material. One way or another, the material has to be adjusted to the required size at the edges of the room or in places where heating or plumbing pipes are located. Special attention it is worth paying attention to how to lay tiles in the toilet, because in this case an even more difficult tile cutting will be required.

It is far from always possible to use a conventional glass cutter for fitting, since manufacturers usually use a stronger material for the manufacture of floor tiles than for wall tiles. In addition, the thickness of the floor tiles is greater, which means that it will be even more difficult to cut it properly.

In this case, it is best to use the grinder, which allows you to curly cutting, albeit with an uneven edge. All imperfections made as a result of such trimming can be eliminated using special tongs (nippers) manually.

Most convenient option cutting tiles - the use of a tile cutter, since with its help all procedures can be performed as quickly and firmly as possible, and the edges are smooth.

Important! Despite all the positive characteristics of such a tool as a tile cutter, it is impossible to cut a thin strip (less than 10 cm) with it. In this case, it is better to do it manually using wire cutters.

It is very important not to forget about personal protective equipment, which must be present in the process of cutting tiles. Sharp pieces, which, one way or another, will scatter to the sides, can cause serious injury. Therefore, it is important to protect the eyes (and preferably the entire face) and wear tight clothing that can provide protection.

After everything necessary elements the tiles are cut and laid with the help of an adhesive composition, it remains only to wait for drying and wipe the seams. How exactly this procedure is carried out should be considered separately in order to take into account all the subtleties and nuances. After all, it will depend on the final stage how long the coating will last in the end, and how hygienic its use will be.

Grouting tiles on the floor: what is it for

In order to pay due attention to grouting between tiles, it is necessary to understand how important this process is in terms of its further operation. First of all, it is worth noting that the seams are the gap that remains between the elements after they are laid.

There are certain norms and rules that indicate the main guidelines that you need to rely on in the process of work. So, the basic rule is that the larger the width of the tile, the larger the seam should be. Usually it is from 2 to 5 mm.

The need for grouting is due to several reasons:

• over time, the walls undergo natural shrinkage, so some free space is needed so that the tiles can move without damaging the surface;
• due to the presence of cracks in the dense lining, the walls "breathe";
• the use of a special grouting compound prevents the penetration of moisture, and hence the development of mold, fungi and simply the accumulation of dirt in the crevices;
• due to the presence of grout, adhesion between individual fragments of the cladding is improved;
• grout has a significant decorative role. Properly and neatly designed seams can mask minor tile defects, such as notches and chips. In addition, using grout, you can hide the remnants of the solution.

Thus, the service life of the flooring, as well as how attractive its appearance will be, depends on the observance of the grout application technology. That is why it is worth considering in more detail on what principle it is worth choosing a mixture and how to carry out everything necessary work on one's own.

How to choose the right grout mix

In order to avoid any problems during the grouting process, it is necessary from the very beginning to choose a mixture that is ideal in all respects. This seemingly insignificant nuance plays an important role, so you should pay attention to the following aspects:

The color of the grout is the main criterion that most people pay attention to in the first place. The color of the grout can both positively and negatively affect appearance the entire coverage. A universal option that is appropriate almost always - white. But in combination with colored tiles, it will not give the feeling of a single canvas. For this. you can choose a grout shade that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. Contrasting colors are used less often, since choosing the right combination can be very difficult.

Helpful advice! To get the grout of the desired shade, you can simply add to the base mix white color right amount color.

The composition and properties of the grout also play an important role. Depending on what components are included in the mixture, and it can be alabaster, gypsum, epoxy resins, Portland cements and others, the characteristics will also be different. Here you need to focus on what conditions the material will have to face.

So, for rooms with high humidity, for example, when it comes to a bathroom, you need to choose compositions that include water-repellent components. If the surface is subject to serious loads, then you should pay attention to the wear resistance of the composition. The best solution is epoxy mix.

The composition of the grout will differ depending on what surface it is intended for. For example, if we are talking about tiling the wall surface, ordinary grout is used, which, under significant loads, can wear out over time. For flooring, it is worth purchasing a more tenacious mixture, designed for constant contact with shoes, furniture, etc. The main thing is that the grout structure is not loose.

Technology for preparing grout for tile joints on the floor

Today, many different manufacturers are engaged in the production and sale of high-quality grout. Such wide range of allows you to choose the most suitable option for a particular situation. On sale you can find two types of grout for joints: dry powder and mass ready for application.

In the first case, the main difficulty is the dilution of the required amount of the mixture, since it can be difficult to understand exactly how much you may need. Therefore, the best option is to dilute the powder little by little, gradually using it as needed. Usually, manufacturers indicate on the packaging as accurately as possible how much water needs to be added to obtain the desired consistency, but you can also adjust it yourself, by eye determining whether the result you get tired of.

The second option is a mass that is completely ready for use. It can usually be purchased in jars or small buckets. The main advantage of this solution is that there is no need to bother with breeding on your own and the ability to carry out all the necessary work as quickly as possible.

The disadvantages of the finished mass primarily include short term storage. For this reason, leftovers that have not been used will most likely have to be thrown away. Given this, we can conclude that self-dilution of grout from a dry mix is ​​more profitable.

If there is a desire to save money on the purchase of grout, you can consider the option home cooking. To do this, you can use alabaster diluted with water to the consistency of a plastic mass. The main disadvantage of this option is the short service life, since usually such a grout crumbles quite strongly. You can add a gypsum mixture to strengthen it, but this will only slightly improve the situation.

How to grout the seams on the tile: the technique of applying the mixture

In order to apply the finished grout to the seams and bring it all into proper shape, you will need a container into which the solution will be poured, a brush, a construction mixer, as well as a foam rubber sponge and a small rubber spatula. It is best to dilute the grout gradually, in small portions and in a small container.

Helpful advice! Using a mixer is justified only if you have to work with a large area. In all other cases, to obtain the desired consistency of the mixture, it will be enough to mix it for some time with a spatula.

The grouting procedure is as follows:

1. Tiled joints with which to work must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust, and fungus. For this, a special tool is provided.
2. Using a brush previously dipped in water, the seams are soaked to increase the quality of adhesion between materials.
3. Then you need to dilute a small amount of grout in a prepared container.
4. Using a rubber spatula, the elastic mixture is applied to the seam so that the gap is completely filled. In this case, additional tamping is necessary to avoid the formation of voids.
5. All excess that has fallen on the tile can be easily removed with the same spatula.
6. To prevent future cracks, at this stage, the grout in the joints must be moistened with water.

Important! To provide maximum protection against the effects of water and the formation of fungus on the surface, it is recommended to additionally treat the places where the plinth will be laid with a sealant.

You need to understand that the procedure for grouting joints on the floor and walls is somewhat different. And if in the case of wall covering, the seams must be sealed from top to bottom, then for floor covering the rule applies - from the far corner to the exit. Before starting work, it can be extremely useful to watch a training video. Grouting floor tiles in this case will certainly be carried out better.

In order for the grout to dry completely, it is necessary to leave it for a day. And after that, you can proceed to the final processing of the seams. To do this, use special antiseptic agents that can prevent the appearance of fungus and mold, protecting all vulnerable areas of the coating.

One way or another, if we are talking about laying ceramic tiles on the floor, some moisture will accumulate on its surface and, over time, may begin to penetrate through the seams. To prevent this, use . Its application is the final stage of seaming, which provides the maximum level of protection.

Final cleaning of the tile surface before use

In order to start using the coating that resulted from the work, it is necessary to give it an attractive and complete appearance. The main task is to eliminate as much as possible all traces of excess mortar and putty. And since rubbing is usually carried out in several approaches, since the mastic tends to partially sag as a result of drying, surface cleaning should be done only at the very end.

In order to effectively clean the surface, you will need a foam sponge moistened with water. The tile must be wiped so that the grout, which is located on the surface of the tile, is slightly soaked. Then, using a scraper or the same spatula, you can remove all excess. All stains are easily washed off with a damp cloth or sponge.

Helpful advice! If a relief tile was laid, then it will be quite difficult to clean it with a sponge. In this case, it is best to use an old toothbrush.

It is best to clean the surface before the final drying of the grout occurs, since after that it will become very problematic to soften it. Of course, even in this case, it is possible to completely remove the excess, but the process will take much longer and require a lot of effort.

Scraping completely dried putty must be done very carefully, as it is very easy to damage the surface of the tile, especially if the tile surface is glossy. Concerning relief surface, then it will be almost impossible to remove pollution here, so you need to do this as soon as possible.

Tips for caring for floor tiles

It may seem like all you need to know how to tile your bathroom floor is to get a beautiful, durable finish. But in fact, it is constant care that is the key to a long service life of the tile.

In this case, you need to learn two fundamental rules:

1. Only regular cleaning of the seams can guarantee the absence of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. At least once a month it is necessary to clean the grouts in the tiles on the floor. How exactly to do this, everyone decides for himself: you can resort to using special detergents or soapy water, you can also use vinegar or lemon. Chlorine is suitable for surface disinfection. In addition, a steam cleaner will do a wonderful job of cleaning.
2. If possible, you need to save the remains of the grout in order to be able to produce regular grout, which, one way or another, will be needed. Such re-grouting is done as needed if the old seams have darkened and cracked. In this case, the old putty is cleaned, after which the seams are treated with an antiseptic, and a new layer is applied. If it is also necessary to remove a layer of sealant, this can be done with a blade.

By following these simple recommendations, and regularly paying attention to the condition of the tile, you can significantly extend the service life and keep it in its original appearance. It will also be useful to read recommendations and user reviews on the Internet on how to clean the seams between the tiles on the floor. Often on the forums you can find useful ideas and tips.

How much does it cost to put tiles on the floor: prices for services

If after you are fully familiar with how to properly tile in the bathroom, the task still seems too complicated for you, it may make sense to seek the help of professionals. Experts know exactly how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, kitchen or corridor by any method and will cope with the task as quickly as possible.

So, it remains to find an offer at the most reasonable price. Many masters offer to lay tiles on the floor, but this service should not cost less than 550-600 rubles per 1 m². Of course, there are a huge number of masters whose services are much more expensive, so here the choice is solely up to the customer.

In any case, take a look at pricing policy it will be useful, and if such a cost seems excessive to you, then you can always read the instructions again, watch the video about laying tiles on the floor and try to do everything yourself.

Bathroom tile laying technology: video instruction

Having thoroughly familiarized yourself with how to lay tiles on the floor, as well as with how to properly grout the seams on the tile, in most cases you can get to work without hesitation. However, it can also be very useful to watch a training video, which demonstrates in detail each stage of the work and provides useful recommendations from experts in this matter.

It used to be that in order to lay tiles on the floor or walls, it was necessary to call a specialist by all means. But earlier, the technologies were different, much more complex (which cost one kneading of the sand-cement mixture).

Modern materials have greatly simplified the process, and now you can handle laying tiles yourself. The main thing is patience! About the main stages of laying and important nuances says Sergei Merkushin, foreman.

Tiled places

This is not only a bathroom, where the tile shows itself as a finishing material with the best side. Now tiles are actively used for finishing the floor in the hallway (there it can also fit on the walls), and in the kitchen.

Why? Why, tile is so easy to care for! It is enough to wipe it with a rag - and here it is, the desired cleanliness! Linoleum is also easy to clean, but how can you compare its durability and tiles? The latter easily wins.

You can lay tiles not on the entire floor surface in the hallway, but only on the one at the door, where most of the dirt that comes from the street. But in this case, you will have to make sure that the junction of the tile and other material, such as laminate, is properly designed.

First, it is necessary to minimize the difference in the height of the coatings, or to ensure that it does not exist at all. Secondly, close the border between the coatings with a special corner gasket. They are sold in construction stores, look in the same departments as the plinth.

This is the question where everything should start. Good result possible only if the tile lies on a perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, her life will be short.

An uneven surface results in voids under the tile and then either cracking or peeling off the tile. Dry mixes will help you achieve a “smooth relationship” with the floor. In hardware stores you will find huge selection options.

Pay attention to following characteristics:
- for the possible thickness of the fill. There are mixtures that provide a small thickness - from 1 to 5 mm, and there are those that create a flat surface with a fill thickness of up to 50-60 mm (this is true if the surface is completely uneven). It is important to choose the right mixture to avoid the appearance of voids and cracks in the floor and a long drying time.

For curing speed. There are high-tech dry mixes that create a walking surface in as little as 6 hours! And their price is quite acceptable - from 370 rubles per bag of 25 kg. Less "advanced" mixtures cost an average of 250-280 rubles per bag. Do not chase after imported mixtures. Today, high quality is offered by most domestic manufacturers.

The amount of mortar to fill the required area and obtain the appropriate height should be calculated individually, using the data from the manufacturers, which are indicated on the package with the mixture.

The standard calculation formula is that for one millimeter of layer thickness and square meter of area, 1.8-2 kg of a ready-made mixture is required (not dry!). Leveling floors is easier than walls. You may still have to call a specialist to level the walls if you are not sure of your qualifications.

In the case of both the floor and the walls, it is first necessary to carefully clean the surface from easily lagging layers of plaster, old finishing materials, and finally from dust.

After you have prepared a perfectly flat base, you should proceed to the calculations. Decide how many tiles will settle from wall to wall. It is extremely rare that the boundaries of the tile and the room coincide.

It is good if it is possible to disguise an incomplete row of tiles by hiding it under the bathtub. If we are talking about a well-visible space, for example, about a corridor, then there, if the tile does not fit in width, it is best to center it. In this case, whole tiles will be in the middle, and equally reduced ones will be located along the edges, for example, reduced by one third.

For reliability, you can first draw a diagram of the location of the tiles on your floor. Just do not forget to leave room for seams between the tiles, otherwise all calculations will “fly” when laying live.

Leave 6-8 mm for expansion joints between tiles and walls. If you want to lay tiles in some creative way, with a special pattern, also practice first, first on paper, and then on the floor, with real tiles, but without mortar. To withstand the distance that will go under the seams, you will be helped by special seam crosses, which are sold in hardware stores in the ceramics departments.

Later, they will be useful to you in the main work, so that the tiles are at the same distance from each other. Please note: under no circumstances should tiles intended for walls be laid on the floor!

There are many tile adhesives in hardware stores. Choose the option that suits your conditions. For the street, one type of glue is used, for interior work - another, for wet rooms- third. You will learn how to prepare the glue from the manufacturer's instructions printed on the packaging. Stick to them carefully.

As a rule, first you need to pour the required amount of water into plastic container(preferably a bucket), then add glue powder. Then the mixture is intensively mixed (well, if you have a drill with special mixing attachments - this will be a real construction mixer, very effective), and then it matures in about five minutes. Then it is mixed again. Everything, the glue is ready!

Now - to work! Just learn by heart the open glue time for your option. It is always indicated on the packaging. After this time, the adhesive begins to harden and becomes unusable. Usually this time is 20-40 minutes. Therefore, it is not necessary to immediately knead a large amount of glue, especially if you have just started work and are not confident in your abilities. Don't think you can improve an already hardened adhesive by adding more water to it.

Glue can be applied on the tile itself, and on the wall and floor. The latter option is preferable, it gives a better result. So, you apply glue to the wall and distribute it with a notched trowel, as if combing it. Make sure that the trowel always goes at the same angle. Please note: the larger the tile format and the more embossed it is, the greater should be the depth of the tooth formed by the adhesive (up to 8 mm).

When you have installed the first tile, be sure to check with a spirit level that it is horizontal. You can adjust the fit with a special rubber mallet. First, the surface is lined with whole tiles. You will deal with corners and incomplete tiles a little later. Flooring tiles traditionally start with outer corner which is best viewed.

We cut and cut

Cutting tiles will be needed in many cases. Most often, tiles do not fit completely, and our floors and walls do not differ in straight lines. In this case, you need to somehow decorate the curvature. For such work, it is worth buying a simple tile cutter in hardware stores. It costs from 350 rubles, and it is much more convenient than a glass cutter. A tile cutter allows you to cut tiles into much thinner strips. If you need to make a hole in the tile for a pipe or socket, then get special tile pliers, they are often called the “parrot's beak”. It is important that you have a certain percentage of tiles for marriage. It's unlikely that everything will work out perfectly the first time.

If the tile is stained with glue, then it is better to remove the glue right there, with a damp sponge, before it dries. It's much easier than scraping it off afterwards.

Before you start this part of the work, wait for the time required for the glue to harden. Look at the deadlines the manufacturer sets (usually 10-15 hours, but it is better to withstand the day). Prepare the grout and apply it to the joints with a rubber spatula. You should drive the rubber diagonally relative to the seam, periodically changing direction - either from right to left, or vice versa. This way you fill in the seams well.

In conclusion, you need to start cleaning the seams with a slightly dampened sponge. Control that when flushing, the protrusion on the seam is removed, but the seam itself is not washed off. Seal expansion joints with silicone sealants.

Everybody! Now we bring final cleanliness and enjoy the beautifully laid tiles!

Ceramic tiles have a lot of advantages over other finishing materials. This is what made it so widespread and popular. Most often it is used for lining the bathroom, kitchen and corridor. Products resistant to moisture, easy to care for, and the finish will last a long time. It remains to find out the answer to the question of how tiles are laid in the bathroom.

The principle of working with tiles

Laying tiles is not just sticking products to the surface. The work is carried out in stages, according to the instructions and other recommendations. Before laying tiles on a wall in a bathroom or other room, you need to determine the amount of work and its sequence. Although a beginner can cope with the work, he needs in advance:

1. Make sure you have the right tools.
2. Make drawings of the future layout of the tiles.
3. Perform preparatory work in the room.
4. After that, you can start laying the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

This set of works will allow you to complete the task for any room. It remains only to deal with each stage.

Stage 1 - selection and calculation of material for work

Ceramic tiles for the bathroom should have some features. The main criterion is resistance to moisture. The second point is the surface. It comes in matte and glossy. On sale you can find plain products and with patterns, in the form of mosaics and large sizes. What to be guided by when choosing?

1. The tile should fit into the interior of the room.
2. Be chemical resistant.
3. Characterized by high quality.
4. Be easy to care for.

Having settled on a certain type of product, you need to calculate the amount of material. What is needed for this? First, measure each wall. Secondly, determine the area of ​​​​the walls. Thirdly, add 10% of the stock to the resulting number, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall involves fitting and marriage. For example, to determine the area of ​​walls, you need to know the sum of the widths of all walls. For example, the width of one wall is 3 m, and the other is 4 m. Since there are 4 walls, the total length of the walls will be as follows: 3 + 3 + 4 + 4 \u003d 14 m. It remains to multiply the length by the height of the walls. Suppose it is 2.3 m. As a result, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls will be equal to: 14 × 2.3 \u003d 32.2 m2. We add 10% to this amount and get 35 m2. It remains to clarify in the store that you need wall tiles for 35 m2 of walls.

Note! The sizes of bathroom tiles on the wall are different. The most popular are 10x10 cm, 20x10 cm, 15x15 cm, 20x20 cm, 20x50 cm, 30x60 cm.

Stage 2 - preparation of tools

The good news is that high-tech tools are not required to perform the work. They are simple and a beginner can work with them. So, before you put the tiles on the wall, you need to stock up on such tools:

• building level;
• notched trowel;
• tape measure, marker and pencil;
• dowels;
• rule;
• Bulgarian;
• mallet (rubber mallet);
• tools for cutting ceramic tiles in the bathroom;
• brush or roller;
• rubber spatula.

As for the materials, the work will require a tile, glue or cement-sand mortar, a primer. Some people ask, should the walls be primed before tiling? The primer will improve the adhesion of the solution to the surface, which will extend the service life.

Stage 3 - markup

Wall tiling is based on the following rule: visually important places are finished with solid tiles, and trimmed material is used in areas that are not conspicuous. The number of tiles is calculated before leveling the base.

Vertical marking is based on the following rule: the whole tile is at the top. This takes into account the height of the floor and ceiling, the seams between the plates. Exists different types product layouts, the most popular:

For beginners, it is better not to use the last method, it is complicated. The second method can be used to create an imitation of brickwork, it is simple. However, the first option remains the most popular. It is important to observe the vertical and horizontal. A slight deviation is easy to notice.

Laying tile tiles begins with 2 or 3 rows. The fact is that 1 or 2 rows are sometimes made from floor tiles. Ideally, the walls are finished first, starting from the top, leaving room for laying the floor material from below. It will look better, water will not flow into the contour seams. When the floor is already laid, the tiling in the bathroom starts from the bottom. Having decided where the lighthouse row will be, you should break through the marks of the upper edge of the starting row using a water level. With a laser level it will be even easier. The horizon is marked along the perimeter. After that, a beacon cord is pulled or a solid line is drawn.

Stage 4 - preparatory work

Now consider how to lay tiles on the wall. For this, two types of mixtures are used:

• tile adhesive;
• cement-sand mortar.

Each of them is used for certain circumstances. For example, tile adhesive is suitable for walls with ideal flat surface. To do this, they need to be plastered or sheathed with drywall. Do drywall need to be sanded before tiling? Experts say that this must be done, since without this layer the tile will not adhere well to the drywall sheet.

As for the cement-sand layer, it is suitable for curved walls without prior alignment. In this case, the layer thickness increases, as does the flow rate of the mixture. Since the thickness of the adhesive when laying tiles is less (5–7 mm) and the technology itself is simpler, we will consider this particular installation option.

Now about preparing the walls for work. It is performed as follows:

1. Removal from the walls of the previous finish.
2. Cleaning the surface from dust, debris and dirt.
3. Putty cracks.
4. Plastering uneven surfaces.
5. Waterproofing works.
6. Primer before laying tiles.

I would like to pay special attention to alignment. To work with glue milestone. It can be implemented in several ways:

• for living rooms gypsum is used;
• for bathrooms, kitchens and other wet areas - cement mixture;
• for concrete and brick - plaster;
• if surface defects are large, then drywall is used.

Note! The advantage of drywall is that it can be used to insulate the room. And if you use it for wet rooms, you will need a moisture-resistant GKL.

When the preparation of the bathroom for laying tiles is completed, you can proceed to the main process.

Stage 5 - wall cladding

Work begins with laying the first row. As mentioned above, it is not made from the floor, but from the intended line at a height of 2 or 3 rows. For the convenience of marking, it is installed metallic profile for drywall or other even guide support. On it, you need to lay out the first row. It should be perfectly even, as subsequent rows are guided by it.

Next, you need to prepare the adhesive composition according to the instructions on the package. Then, with a trowel, the mixture is applied to small plot walls. It is not necessary to treat the surface completely, the mixture should be enough for laying 2-3 tiles. The thickness of the adhesive layer on the wall is 5–7 mm. It remains to take a notched trowel and stretch the applied layer.

Before attaching the tile to the wall, it must also be treated with glue. A thin layer is applied to the surface of the tile and also stretched with a notched trowel. These irregularities will improve the adhesion of the material. Now the tile needs to be pressed with force into the layer of glue that was applied to the wall. Using the level, the correct position of the tile (horizon and vertical) is checked. The first tile must be perfectly level.

Important! Laying tiles on drywall is done in the same way. Only before the work of the GKL it is required to putty.

The surface of the tile wall will be even and beautiful if there is an even distance between each tile, a perfect seam. For this, crosses are used, which are inserted into the seam for the same gap. Their thickness is 1.5 mm, which is enough for good seam. And how to lay tiles on the wall in the corners? To do this, it must be cut to right size and use the corner element.

When performing laying work, you must not forget to check the evenness of the surface. When the first row is ready, you can proceed to the next. It is easier to do this, as it will focus on the first row. To create a seam, all the same crosses are used. Glue is applied to the wall, a stretch is formed with a notched trowel, glue is applied to the tile and it is applied in its place. The bathroom has pipes and other elements in the walls. For laying in such places, the tiles are cut to the desired size.

Advice! The glue protruding from the seams, during indentation, must be removed before it hardens.

When the surface of the walls is processed, grouting can be done. For this purpose, a special dry mixture is used, which is diluted with water. The solution is applied to the seams with a spatula, and the excess is removed with a damp cloth.

Conclusion

We looked at how to lay tiles on a wall. The work consists of certain stages, namely the purchase of material, the preparation of tools, the creation of an ideal surface and the laying process itself. If you follow the instructions, the room will be processed correctly. This finish will last for decades.