How to make a ledge from drywall. Design features of the protrusion for lighting on the plasterboard ceiling. How to make a round drywall wall - step by step diagram

Economical and easy-to-install LED strip is widely used for light decoration of the ceiling. And in most cases, such decor provides for the installation of a drywall niche for LED lighting - a special ledge on which lighting elements will be placed.

In our article, we will describe the manufacturing technology of such parts. false ceiling, and also literally in a few words we will tell you about the features of connecting LED lighting.

Materials and tools

A drywall niche for LED lighting is a special-shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the elements of a multi-level ceiling.

You can see examples of such design solutions in the photo in this article.

It is also possible to manufacture recesses in the wall with decorative lamps. True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used, more often used Spotlights.

To build such a structure, we need:

Drywall (regular or moisture resistant).
Profile (start and main).
Ceiling straight hangers.
Fasteners (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for the profile and drywall).

Among the tools that will be used to create a design for plasterboard lighting, we need:

Perforator or hammer drill with a victorious drill.
Screwdriver.
Nozzle for a screwdriver for working with drywall.
Metal scissors.
Pliers.
Mounting knife.
Screwdrivers.
A set of tools for putty and finishing GKL.

All these tools should be at our fingertips - only then can we get to work.

Mounting the led strip cornice

Frame assembly

GKL cornice for installation led strip mounted on a special frame. For the manufacture of the frame we use galvanized metal profiles used to assemble the lathing of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Note! The structure can be mounted both on a capital ceiling, and on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

We assemble the crate according to the following scheme:

With the help of the level on the walls we apply a horizontal base line. The indentation of the line from the ceiling should be 7–10 cm.
Along the perimeter of the room along the base line, we fix the starting profile for the GKL.
Stepping back from the wall 150-200 mm, we fix the same starting profile on the ceiling, forming the inner perimeter.
To the starting profile on the ceiling, every 40-50 cm we attach segments of the main profile. The length of the segments must be equal to the distance from ceiling base to the baseline.
We connect the wall starting profile with hangers from the main profile with 300 mm long panels. The protrusions of 150 mm will be the main for the bearing cornice.
Frames of large dimensions can be additionally reinforced with main profile panels, fixing them on the underside.

Note! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring for connecting electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to vertical posts with clamps.

Profile sheathing

When the frame is assembled, you can begin to sheath it with GKL sheets.

Most likely, you are already familiar with the sheathing technology of the crate from the numerous videos on our website, so here is only a general instruction:

We cut off a narrow strip from the drywall sheet and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, we roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
We sew a GKL strip on the lower part, forming the base of our design.

Exist different types plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.

At an open ledge, you can immediately install electrical appliances, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:

Closed drywall niches with illumination are equipped with a special rim that directs light to the ceiling (see also article about).
To form it, we fasten the starting profile to the edge of the ledge from the gypsum plasterboard and fix a strip of gypsum plasterboard up to 50 mm high to it.
On the outer corner we glue a special plastic or metal pad, which should protect the drywall sheathing from damage.

After the frame is formed and sheathed with plasterboard, it can be puttied and finished (painted, plastered, wallpapered). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - installing the LED strip with our own hands.

Backlight connection

Before installing the LEDs in a drywall niche, the tape must be prepared:

From the bay of the tape we cut off a fragment of the length we need. You need to cut the tape only in places with special markings.
If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also just solder the contacts using a soldering iron.

Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.

We connect the LED-lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% more than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
Of course, the price of such a power supply will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.

To connect the color backlight, we use a special RGB controller.
We check the performance assembled system. If everything burns the way we need, you can stick the tape on the cornice.
We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the crate.

Summarizing

A properly equipped drywall niche for lighting can radically transform appearance premises. So if you are interested in light decor - we hope this article will be useful to you!

Photo gallery

In any construction work technology is always important, it is it that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the result of the repair. But, often, builders allow technological "blunders", some out of ignorance, and some out of inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Consider the main mistakes using the example of working with and a metal profile.

1. Violations of the frame mounting technology

Non-compliance with the technology with a metal profile or profiles that do not correspond to their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for the profile for curved ceiling surfaces.

This photo shows that, unfortunately, the master, in principle, does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers, the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the drywall sheets are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this design will be flimsy, and the drywall fastening is unreliable, which will lead to a crack after repair.

2. Mistakes when cutting a profile

For uniform cutting of the profile for the purpose of mounting curved structures, in no case should an angle grinder (grinder) be used. At high speed, the metal overheats, in addition, galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which, in the future, this place will be subject to corrosion. Work on cutting a metal profile should be carried out only with special metal shears (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf, on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.

3. Wrong profile selection

A common mistake among builders of different qualifications is when the construction of the box for partitions is made from a ceiling profile, instead of a rack-mount (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).

The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a design immediately becomes questionable.

Using a ceiling profile for a partition frame is a complete discrepancy with technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed on the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.

4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame

During the construction of a false ceiling, builders are faced with the problem of foundation - what is the frame to be fixed to? At best, this is concrete, but if it is a tree or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise here, as in the photo. In this case, builders in some places decided to completely abandon the use of hangers for the frame of a two-level ceiling of the P-112 type.

As a result, the main profile 60/27 is screwed rigidly to the carrier profile without a two-level connector. The carrier profile itself is pressed against the boards also without suspensions. This technology will lead to the fact that after a while cracks will necessarily form on the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. Broken and scheme frame, - step profiles are chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. Subject to the technology, the carrier profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be fixed to special perforated or spring suspensions. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).

5. Extension of the profile walls

A vivid example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers, the profile was simply unbent.

And here, the bearing crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also deployed horizontally, and its stiffeners are unbent.

This is extremely wrong. Unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is violated, since the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.

6. Fixing the GKL sheet on the wrong side

Some builders consider the question of which side to fix drywall to be irrelevant - front or back? The photo shows how, when sheathing the wall with GKLV sheets, some of them are sewn with the back side out. The peculiarity of this drywall is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet during wet rooms and the formation of fungus.

7. Error fixing drywall sheets

Another of the popular mistakes, leading to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall, is its incorrect fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in a run-up that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. It's a sheathing Low quality. Sheets must be taken to the maximum of a larger size, and small pieces should not be joined on an area of 1 sq / m.

Even experienced craftsmen it is worth improving your knowledge, for example, in the Knauf Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems from gypsum boards and profiles is associated with compliance with the technology!

Attention is paid to the design of the ceiling, various solutions are used to implement the design ideas. Each of the selected options has advantages and disadvantages. Plasterboard ceiling with illumination is popular.

Plasterboard ceiling with illumination is a popular design solution. The use of a backlit plasterboard structure solves a lot of issues regarding the lighting of the room, direct adjustment of the light power.

The installation of structures made of gypsum boards with backlighting has a number of positive aspects:

the acquisition of an even ceiling covering;
preparation is not required before installing a plasterboard ceiling;
easy to hide communications;
multi-level structures with illumination are created;
Properly selected lighting will emphasize the interior of the room;
finishing the ceiling with plasterboard embodies a design of any complexity with lighting, built-in niches for lighting;
excellent sound and heat insulation;
plasterboard ceiling is installed in a dry way, which means that time is not spent on drying the solution.

The ceiling of the plasterboard has disadvantages:

the ceiling will drop by 10 cm;
installation of drywall sheet structures is simple, but requires experience with electricity.

Important! Electrical skills - obligatory moment. Since a properly made fastening drywall coating will protect the structure from unexpected short circuits, and therefore from fire.

When planning the construction of a backlit GKL structure, pay attention to the following points:

lighting (backlight) is better done for some areas;
think over to the smallest detail the orientation of the illumination;
correctly located illumination will help to adjust the proportionality of the room. Thanks to the direction of light, you can visually expand the room;
if there are different fully functional zones in the room, then it is better to install separate lighting fixtures;
if the room is small in size, then you should not choose multi-level structures;
Before fixing the ceiling from drywall sheets, make a clear design drawing.

Types of lighting fixtures

To make the right choice of lighting fixtures for illumination, you need to know their types.

Main types:

point;
LED lighting devices;
fluorescent lamps;
LED strips;
fiber optic lights.

Spotlights. The popularity of this kind of lighting devices is growing every year. Spot lighting is a set of low power light fixtures.

Main advantages:

if necessary, partial lighting;
uniform lighting of the room;
profitability;
due to their compact dimensions, they will harmoniously fit into the interior;
spotlights scatter light at a small angle;
light quality;
lifetime;
beautiful color palette supply of light;
availability.

Spotlights also have a number of disadvantages:

it is difficult to independently make the necessary design and direct organization;
many types of points lighting fixtures require a special design;
when the spotlight overheats, deformation of the flow is possible.

Fluorescent lamps are used for non-residential premises. The advantage of this kind of lighting fixtures is availability and ease of installation, long service life, cost-effectiveness.

Fiber optic lamps are an innovation in the world of lighting products. Thanks to them, it is possible to realize the bold design ideas: starry sky, moving overflows. The device of overlapping with such lamps is expensive and time-consuming.

LED strips are a common method of decorating a ceiling. The device of the LED strip provides for the installation of a niche from GKL. A niche is a kind of ledge on which lighting fixtures are mounted.

There are two types of LED strip:

monochrome;
full color.

LED strip has a number of positive aspects:

is divided into segments;

Important! When cutting the tape, the functionality remains unchanged.

reliability;
profitability;
durability;
environmental friendliness;
ease of operation and installation. The sticky layer fixes the tape on the surface.

How to choose the right LED strip?

The tape is used both indoors and outdoors: sealed and non-sealed LED strips are provided for this.

Important! By mounting this kind of lighting device in a room with a high percentage humidity, choose sealed material. When such a tape is used for the purpose of decoration, a leaky one will do.

When choosing an LED strip, pay attention to whether it is waterproof or not.

Protrusion from drywall sheets

Floor equipment suspended structure from the GKL provides for work on lighting and illumination.

The overlap of sheets of drywall with illumination has a number of positive points:

The thermal radiation of devices does not play a special role. Since the drywall and the profile used to create the skeleton are heat resistant.
The stability of the structure allows you to install lighting fixtures to the profile of the frame.
Thanks to the plasterboard coating, you can hide all the shortcomings of the room.

Important! Before installing the GKL coating, find out the exact location of all lighting fixtures.

Backlight location

Before installation, consider the location of the LED backlight power supply. Since this element has rather large dimensions, it is worth considering its heating. Based on this, it is necessary to fix the power supply in an easily accessible place.

Consider the desired nuance - heat dissipation. Before starting work, bring all electric wires to the power source.

Installation rules

The base ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard.

A second level is being constructed of the desired design for direct mounting of the backlight.

The second tier is fastened to the guides through drywall. This nuance cannot be skipped, since the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Since drywall will not hold the second level of the structure without insurance.

Make a mark on the wall. It is necessary for fastening a metal special profile. Deviate from the ceiling is relative to the size of the future building. If the markup is done correctly, you will end up with a regular rectangle.

Important! For marking, it is necessary to use a level and a tape measure in order to correctly outline the lines for the special profile from which the skeleton will be formed - the base for the ledge.

Work on installing a frame for drywall must begin with a guide (ceiling) special profile. The profile is fastened with screws (step 30 - 40 cm). The profile shelves are guided from the floor down and parallel to the floor on the wall.

Strictly observing the desired format, segments and racks are cut and fixed horizontally. For these purposes, a CD profile is used.
Pieces of the main profile are attached to the starting special profile on the coating after 40-50 cm. When carrying out such work, it is worthwhile to clearly monitor that the footage of the pieces is a uniform distance from the ceiling to the baseline.
The wall special profile must be connected to the hangers from the main profile;
After mounting the necessary ceiling special profiles into the frame, the base will become rigid.

Facing the skeleton of the building with drywall

The lining of the central covering is made with sheets of drywall.

After the skeleton, on which the GKL coating will be attached, is installed, it is necessary to sheathe it with drywall:

sheets are trimmed, acquiring the desired dimensions;
finished drywall is attached to the skeleton with self-tapping screws;
after fixing the GKL, the joints are glued with a special reinforcing tape.
all joints and attachment points are puttied with self-tapping screws.

Important! When the installation is completed, you can proceed to laying the wiring. For safety, electrical wiring must be hidden in plastic boxes. The resulting boxes are fastened with self-tapping screws to the base coat.

After carrying out the necessary manipulations with the wiring, you can proceed to sheathing the protrusion with drywall. Facing begins with the installation of a drywall strip on a niche shelf. For these purposes, you will need self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Base coat cladding is done in most cases whole sheets. The box is finished with narrow strips of drywall, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the vertical part of the structure is sheathed. The required section of the sheet is attached to the racks - hangers and a special profile guide on the ceiling. It is necessary to install drywall so that its joints are on the racks. After that, the horizontal part of the structure is sheathed. The final stage of installation is the installation of a side, the task of which is to hide the backlight. It should be noted that the side (its upper part) must be at least 50 mm from the ceiling.

The final stage of facing the protrusion is the putty of the protrusions and seams formed from self-tapping screws. Existing joints must be sealed with reinforcing mesh. The necessary manipulations with the seams proceed in several stages. First, putty is applied in a small layer. After the putty dries, the surface is sanded. The procedure is repeated, but the finishing (smaller) putty is already applied.

After that, the structure is primed and painted.

Backlight setting

If the choice fell on an open ledge, then it is best to take an LED strip as a backlight. Since the tape is quite flexible and can take any shape.

Before proceeding to work on installing the LED strip, you need to prepare it:

Cut off a piece of tape desired length. It is necessary to cut the tape only in special places, which are marked with additional markings.
Pieces of tape can be connected into a single whole using special connectors. If there is no such device, all manipulations are done with a soldering iron. To do this, solder the tape contacts.

Important! If the sections are more than 7m, it is better to connect the tapes in parallel.

The backlight will be uniform if:

when connecting LED strips, polarity is taken into account;
when connecting a color ribbon, the correct controller is used.

Manufacturers apply self-adhesive backing to light fixtures to make them easier to install. Before purchasing devices, decide on the color, since the color palette is extensive. There are RGB strips. The advantage of such products is the color range, the ability to independently adjust the brightness of the glow. Minus - the cost.

Dimmers are used to transform the brightness of the glow. Dimmers should not be selected individually for the selected type of tape, as they are suitable for all types. Tapes are distinguished by the number of LEDs per meter. The higher the number, the more intense the glow.

Backlight connection

LED strips operate at a voltage of 12 V. If the lighting device is connected to a standard line, it will simply burn out.

To choose wisely desired block supply, do the calculations. The power of one meter of LED strip is indicated by the manufacturer. To calculate the specified power, multiply the footage of the LED strip. The resulting number corresponds to the required power supply.

Important! A correctly selected power supply will allow the lighting device to work for a long time and correctly.

Please note that the length of the LED strip should not exceed 5 m. If the length is longer, in this case, connect segments of 5 m in parallel to each other.

LED illumination of plasterboard ceiling - interesting design technique

Illuminated plasterboard ceiling coverings can be made independently. To do this, study the questions about the installation and installation of the backlight. A skillfully executed plasterboard ceiling will skillfully emphasize the interior.

Drywall sheets can:

sheathe any surface;
hide those places that spoil the interior for you, especially for toilets and baths;
make drywall shelves and place various objects on them;
install partitions, thereby creating a full-fledged room;
mount niches for a TV or other structural elements.

For craftsmen who like to make their own hands and create comfort in their own home, drywall in combination with a metal profile has become simply an indispensable material, as it has amazing qualities:

Ecologicaly clean.
It makes it possible to change the space without the use of "wet" processes and quickly enough.
Durable.
Mounted on a frame made of wood or metal.
Frameless installation available.
Suitable for any facing material.
Cuts easily.
The design of plasterboard walls provides the opportunity to use various configurations in the interior.
The cost of the material is low.

So, if you have a passionate desire to create a cozy atmosphere in your home, then step-by-step instructions for installing certain structural elements will certainly come in handy.

The device of the box of drywall and metal profile

Many of us want to close the pipes in the bathroom, hide the sewer in the toilet or get rid of the risers, which spoil the interior of the room with their appearance. The drywall construction, which is called the box, will cope well with this task.

This element makes it possible to get rid of the unattractive appearance of communication systems. Nobody sees a boner with a hot or cold water, and it continues to perform its direct functions.

Depending on the wishes, potential and location of the highways, the riser can be closed:

All over the wall.
Only pipes.

In the first case, sewing up the entire plane, we shorten usable area, although you can mount shelves or niches for storage various items and things. In the second, we close only those sections where the pipes pass. This option is the most acceptable, since the installation takes place quite quickly and makes it possible to save money on the purchase of material.

Thinking about how to visually clean the system Maintenance communications, you must remember - in the event of a breakdown, you will have to break, if not the entire structure, then at least a part. And this will spoil the decoration of the room and you will have to redo the repair.

You can build a box in the toilet collapsible, this option is not used so often, or install small doors (hatches) for access to communication elements (valves, counter, fittings).

Remember that most often problems occur at the joints - the smaller their number, the easier it is to operate the pipeline. Before starting work, conduct a thorough inspection of the line. If there are defects, eliminate them, get rid of rust (if any).

You can not be afraid of leaks and calmly close soldered or welded joints. BUT threaded connections should be left open.

Materials and tools

If you need to close unattractive places yourself, you need to know how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and choose the right material. Since the bathroom is always high humidity, not all materials are suitable for work. They must meet the following requirements:

be resistant to moisture;
have a small weight;
made from environmentally friendly components.

Let's say paper wallpaper in the bathroom you will have to change it after a couple of months, which means that tiles are best suited for cladding. And where to fix it, if there is no reason. It is best to use a metal profile, and not wooden blocks. The latter will begin to deteriorate over time, especially if they are in a humid environment. In this option, it is necessary to choose a rock that is resistant to decay and treat the surface with an antiseptic.

But with metal, nothing will happen. It will last a long time. Read more from technical specifications profiles can be found in the article "". Select fasteners according to the article "", they are produced according to GOST 11652-80, 10619-80.

For work, you will need products that are shown in the figure.

Prepare from tools and fixtures.

Structural sizing

It is necessary to determine the place in the room where the pipe box will be installed. All measurements are taken with a tape measure. First, we will make a drawing on paper, which will show the future design with all the elements and technological hatches. You need to know that in the places of their junction, you need to make reinforcements from the profiles. The future design must be reliable and strong.

box drawing

If you have to close the pipes that are located in the corner of the room, then the box will have two faces, and if the riser is sewn up in the middle of the wall - three.

On the drawing, mark all types of connections, indicate the scheme for mounting profiles. Now you can definitely buy necessary elements and correctly calculate the material for the job.

The distance between the pipe and the box should not be less than 30 mm.

markup

Before you make a drywall box, you need to find the most protruding places of the riser, which will set the boundary of the future structure, and mark them. From the base point on the ceiling, using a square, we draw perpendiculars to the walls. The resulting rectangle should cover all the protrusions of the riser. Further from the point we lower the plumb line and the touch mark shows the base mark on the floor. From it we draw perpendiculars to the walls.

Now let's connect the lines along the wall and get a straight line on which we will install the rack profile.

Frame installation

The profiles must be mounted to the wall, taking into account the finishing materials, so that they do not closely adhere to the pipes.

We drill holes with a drill, where we then hammer plastic dowels with a hammer. We fasten the rack profile (27x28) to the wall with screws, and the guide (27x60) to the ceiling and floor. Install the front edge of the box. It is obtained at the intersection of guide profiles along the ceiling and floor. This is done with a cutter or self-tapping screws.

If the width of the box is more than 250 mm or its height is more than 1500 mm, it is necessary to install transverse jumpers between the vertical posts. They are installed at a distance of no more than 1000 mm and serve as stiffeners for the structure. In addition, drywall sheets are then mounted on them.

All attachment points should be located on one straight line with the formation of a solid continuous plane for the edges of the structure, otherwise distortions are likely to occur.

A drywall box in the bathroom and toilet is assembled according to the same principle. Its installation is fast, the structure is compact, the distance from the profile to the pipe is not less than 50-60 mm.

Drywall installation

Before closing the pipes with drywall, it is necessary to cut the sheet so that the box is covered with strips, not pieces. Pre-cut off the side faces, their width is equal to the width of the frame. The sheet cannot protrude beyond the edge of the rack. To do this, you can use a peeling planer.

Now we measure the exact size of the remaining face and cut off the drywall strip so that it is on the edges of the side strips. We fasten drywall to the profile with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) every 150-250 mm to the main racks. Just don't forget about inspection hatches. You can buy them in the store, manufacturers offer big choice various sizes. And how to cut holes in drywall, you will learn in another section of the same article. This completes the installation of the box.

After you have made a drywall box with your own hands, you can start puttingtying it. And what Decoration Materials you use to create a pleasant interior - tiles, paint or plaster - you choose.

We make drywall shelves

When working with a drywall sheet, it is not always possible to avoid waste: they made a mistake in calculating the volumes or changed the project during the repair. Different reasons can be. Some stores are ready to accept large pieces, but not everyone is so lucky, this is rather an exception to the rule.

If you are a craftsman, do not rush to take the leftovers to the garage, but decorate the interior of your home. Make the environment more comfortable and get rid of old furniture. Believe me, a plasterboard shelf will definitely find its application in the living room, bedroom or hallway and can:

be an element of decor in the room;
a place to store things, books, interior accessories;
pedestal for collectibles;

A plasterboard TV shelf is not a dream, but a reality. You just need to choose the right profile and use the sheet in two layers. However, modern TVs are not so heavy, and a beautiful shelf can be an ideal place for a plasma panel.

We will tell you about how to make drywall shelves with your own hands in this section. The whole process consists of certain stages.

We need tools.

From the materials you will need:

Drywall, preferably 12.5 mm thick. If you are planning to install a shelf in a room with high humidity, then you should take moisture resistant - GKLV (moisture resistant drywall).
Metal profiles - guides and rack.
Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, wedge anchors, special fasteners.

Drawing

Before starting work, you need to know exactly what functions the shelf will have to perform, whether it is worth reinforcing it with additional jumpers or not. If heavy objects stand on it, then the frame must be strong enough. Next, imagine how it will look like, and transfer your wishes to paper. Don't forget the exact dimensions.

This determines the amount of material used.

You need to start with more simple designs- from the manufacture of straight shelves. And in the future, already experiment with more complex configurations and projects.

markup

Having determined the place where the drywall shelf should be, we begin the markup. In work, use a tape measure, a square. Do not forget about the thickness of the lining of the finished product.

Unfortunately, modern apartments can't brag flat surfaces walls, horizontal floors and ceilings, perfect angles. Therefore, the building level should be with you all the time.

The dimensions are set aside strictly according to the drawing. The quality of the future structure, its appearance and strength depend on how the horizontal and vertical lines are drawn correctly.

Shelf installation

According to the planned marking grid, you can already set the profile. The process itself depends on the design configuration. First mount horizontal or vertical parts. According to the plan, which is shown in the "Drawing" subsection, we begin to work with a vertical rack.

To do this, we drill a hole for the dowels, with their help we will fasten the rack profile (27x28) to the wall. There must be three or more of them per item. We check the position with a level and hammer the part with a 6x40 wedge anchor. We combine with each other with self-tapping screws or a cutter with a guide profile (27x60). On the right side, we fasten a strip of drywall in increments of 150-250 mm. The second sidewall, like all subsequent ones, is assembled in exactly the same way.

Next, we mount the frame between the vertical posts, for this we fasten the rack profile along the marked lines, and fix the guide, which is adjacent to the drywall sheet, with self-tapping screws along the edges, scrolling the gypsum and the back profile through to the profile. At the same time, in the frame of the part on which the sheet is fixed (namely, to which these screws are twisted), the profile must be laid in a horizontal position - as on the partition, but in this case it is used as the main part load-bearing structure shelves. So the shelves will hold securely and firmly, this will be facilitated by plasterboard blanks screwed to the frame from the second side.

In the end, the process of installing a drywall shelf will end with a design that you can see in the photo, or another that you come up with yourself.

Then you can putty the seams, close up the holes from the caps of the screws, prime the surface and veneer the shelf. If desired, it is ennobled with mirror panels, other materials are used, or simply covered with paint to match. colors premises.

Screw profiles to brick, concrete and plastered surfaces using dowel nails or anchor wedges if it is a hard surface. If the wall is made of aerated concrete, then you need to use special fasteners, and if the surface is made of drywall, use other hardware, which can be found in the article "". When you have a wooden base, then for work you need to take wood screws.

Drywall shelves can be mounted in a room where repairs have already been made. True, in this case you have to work more carefully, especially with the markup, because corrections are fraught with the fact that the marks will be visible on the lining. Work is performed in the same order, only cutting drywall and profiles is better not in a renovated room. Much it will be easier the installation process if the work will be carried out during the repair. In this option, you can follow all the rules of design, and the new element will harmoniously and effectively fit into the interior.

How and how to cut drywall

1. Gypsum core

2. Cardboard shell

As you can see in the picture, this is a sandwich consisting of a gypsum core and two layers of cardboard. Gypsum itself is a fragile material. But thanks to special additives and reinforcement on both sides with cardboard, which is impregnated with a special composition, the sheet is able to withstand sufficient loads. It is produced according to GOST 6266-97, with its characteristics and technical indicators can be found in the article "".

Working with this material is easy and interesting. Can:

independently make a shelf or niche for a drywall TV;
install a curly partition;
hide what you don't really want to see;
put on display the things you are proud of.

To create masterpieces that will decorate any home, you just need to have imagination, information on manufacturing and be able to handle drywall. As for the latter, the skill lies in knowing how and with what to cut it. Indeed, in the process of repair, you need to cut out broken lines, cut the sheet in a straight line or make holes.

To cut drywall, you need:

pencil,
roulette,
ruler-corner,
preferably reyshina,
if there is a large amount of work to be done - a peeling planer.

With this material, it is better to use not a marker or a pen, but a pencil, its traces are not visible after puttying, which cannot be said about the listed items. A planer is needed to align the curved edges of the plasterboard. The surface for working with plasterboard should be flat - most often it is a stack of sheets, a floor, and ideally a large table.

Now about the tools. The blades must be sharp, they must be held perpendicular to the sheet, only in this case you will get a straight and smooth cut.

In a straight line

For this purpose, a special drywall knife or a regular construction knife (clerical) is useful. These tools are good because they have adjustable blade length. And this is required in order not to cut through the second layer of cardboard.

Before cutting the sheet, carefully measure with a tape measure or ruler. We put marks on the sheet with a pencil and connect them with a common line. Immediately, without removing the ruler, we draw a knife along the intended line. The depth of the cut should be such that the knife blade does not reach the second layer of cardboard.

It is enough to cut through only the cardboard, and the plaster will break along the cut line without effort.

Now we shift the sheet to the edge of the table and lightly tap the cut line with our fist. Gently bend, it breaks along the notch line, and the halves of the sheet are held by a whole layer of cardboard. On the back side of the sheet, we cut it with a knife, and with a peeling planer we clean the cut.

Curvilinear shapes

by the most practical tool for these works can be called a jigsaw. True, you can use a hacksaw or a knife, but the cuts will be rough, you will have to spend a lot of time to put them in order. The jigsaw will cope with any curvilinear shapes.

Preliminarily, the sheet is laid in such a way that the cut-out place is located on the weight or between two objects at a slight distance from each other.

When working, the blade of the tool should not interfere with anything.

We draw the contour of the figure with a pencil and, having previously put on the means personal protection, since there will be a lot of dust in the process, we start cutting the sheet. The cut lines are high-quality, even and smooth.

round shapes

Often you have to cut a circle in drywall. Of course, they can be cut with a jigsaw or a construction knife. But final result is unlikely to please, and a lot of time and nerves will be spent on work. It is more convenient to make holes for sockets or light bulbs using a crown that is attached to an electric drill chuck. Such sets are sold at any hardware store and have different diameters.

First, we make the necessary markings on the sheet - the location of the future hole - and outline the center. We choose the size of the crown, fix it in the drill chuck. We place the drill in the center of the hole and start drilling.

To get a quality job, you should cut at medium speed, slowly, gently pressing on the drill. With strong pressure, the nozzle will get stuck in the plaster.

Rectangular shapes

Often, when working with drywall, you have to cut rectangular holes in the sheet (for sockets, technical hatches). This is especially often necessary in the manufacture of boxes that cover risers and pipes. For this you will need a hacksaw.

Please note that to work with sheets of drywall, you need to take a sheet for metal. It has smaller teeth, so the work will be done faster and better.

We put the sheet on a support, we make necessary measurements and along the intended line, where it is required to cut drywall, we make cuts with a hacksaw. We start work from any angle and then cut out the desired shape.

No matter how hard we try, it is not always possible to make the edges of drywall smooth. This defect affects not only aesthetic appearance but also on the quality of the work performed. Parts do not fit tightly to each other, violating the integrity of the structure.

For work with drywall, a peeling planer is useful. This professional tool worth buying for everyone who works with this material. It is inexpensive and is needed for high-quality processing of cut edges. It is carried out according to GOST 21445-84.

It is quite easy for them to work. It is necessary to put the sheet so that it is convenient to process its edge - end up, you can put it on its side. Set the planer on the cut of the sheet and draw it along the entire length. It is not worth pressing the handle much, because with strong pressure the tool will go deep into the drywall and you will have to remove a large cut or you will end up with an uneven end.

Movements should be as light as possible, in two or three passes. The surface of the planer must often be cleaned of plaster - turn the tool over and lightly tap the body with the palm of your hand.

We make a niche in the wall of drywall

Well-designed and well-installed niches in a drywall wall can replace a furniture set. They are performed:

in horizontal or vertical execution;
in floor version where it is possible to place decorative fireplace, a vase with flowers, decorative details over 1 m high;
on the entire wall or only a small area;
with and without illumination;
closed or open.

This structural element can be different, its configuration depends on your imagination and wishes, and the design can be complemented by plastic or mirror material with decorative lamps.

In addition, a drywall niche is not only an element of decor, but also makes it possible to hide electrical wiring, engineering Communication or remove objects from prying eyes that others do not need to know about. Sometimes the owners so skillfully use this privilege that they can safely recover on vacation without worrying about their jewelry. Or skillfully disguise technical systems life support at home.

Tools

In order to build a niche, you need to have the following tools to work.

Drawing

It is clear that not everyone graduated from a construction university or has experience working with drawings. But any drywall constructions that you plan to make with your own hands mean that they will be made strictly in size. So a drawing to scale is required. No need to master computer programs or call a draftsman from an architectural office. It is enough to sketch a diagram by hand, indicate all dimensions and design features. It is impossible to make a niche without a scheme. Let it be a simple drawing, but here the size of the wall, the location of the radiators, furniture, electrical sockets if necessary for the intended project. With a properly drawn up drawing, all cases of alteration of the structure are excluded.

Sketching thoughts on paper or "drawing"

Without effective lighting the niche will give the impression of a dark hole. So you need to create a special background around it (mirrors, glossy ceramics) or install a backlight that will visually expand the niche space.

Think about the location of the lighting fixtures. All this must be taken into account in the drawing and when calculating the volume of materials. Specify the dimensions and depth of the niche. Be sure to consider the location of the furniture so that it does not block the opening.

When drawing up a drawing, be sure to consider the thickness of the profile. After all, its dimensions are an integral part of the dimensions of the future structure in height and width.

Are you planning to install in a niche household appliances- pay attention to the dimensions of the structure. Design the space of such a niche a little more sizes devices - for cooling equipment with air and access to communications.

markup

It is carried out strictly in size and with the help of a building level. We mark the middle with a pencil on the wall and draw the entire drawing symmetrically from it with the length and width of the structure.

If you want to place a niche in the center of the wall, then strictly ensure that there is an equal distance along the edges. If the symmetry is broken, the niche will not fit into the interior of the room.

Having outlined the contours of the erected structure on the wall, you already know which lines you need to mount the profile guides.

The most detailed markup should be provided. On the wall, indicate all the marks for fastening the frame from a metal profile.

On the this stage think about the wiring and installation of sockets. Planning shelves with lighting - provide additional equipment.

Frame installation

Having cut the profiles to size, we begin to assemble the frame.

We check each installed profile with a level, because the slightest discrepancy will spoil the entire structure.

We fasten the guide profile with dowels along the perimeter of the drawing transferred to the wall, along the depth of our niche, on the floor and ceiling - 300-400 mm, strictly perpendicular to the wall. The pitch is 400-600 mm.

self-tapping screws or cutter. In places of future shelves, we install jumpers from the rack profile. Our do-it-yourself drywall niche should turn out with wide shelves, on which additional and basic equipment that we plan to place there can easily fit. The frame is strong enough, and the profile is reliable.

Drywall installation

Now you need to attach the sheets to the profile. We do this with self-tapping screws (35-45 mm) with a step of 250 mm. We embed the head of the fastener in the sheet by 1 mm. Less is impossible, because it will interfere with puttying, and more is also not recommended - the sheet may crack. edge drywall sheet should be flush with the profile, the excess is removed.

The result is a drywall niche with backlight. The cost of beauty and comfort is always justified, because they are a long-term investment. Money. Therefore, we do not spare money. After sheathing the frame with drywall, putty and primer, the surface is ready for further finishing work.

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is modern solution, which will give the room a style, make it interesting. Such a ceiling has its undeniable advantages. It hides all the differences in the plates and irregularities, makes the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the plates, so there is no need to make strobes in the walls for electrical wiring and air-discharging elements of air conditioners. And if under the ceiling you place modern, light insulating materials, this will additionally warm the room and improve sound insulation. Such a ceiling can be given the most refined and elegant forms. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spot and pendant.

Work materials

Drywall is an environmentally friendly and non-combustible material. Comprises gypsum board covered with a layer of cardboard. Ceiling drywall with a thickness of 8 mm, flexible and light enough, it is easy to cut with a construction knife. Even beginners can install a two-level ceiling with their own hands.

For work, you will need metal profiles on which drywall plates are fixed. They are of two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special screws.

Choose a form

The drywall construction will "eat" the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level on which curly drywall ledges can be fixed.

Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict geometric lines will also fit in quite harmoniously, for example, a protruding threshold around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle. Drywall is easy to work with, and even a simple ledge can be rounded off at the corners, making it more attractive. For such a threshold, you can hide the cornice, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a number of spotlights over certain areas or around the entire perimeter.

The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, apart from geometric figure it is necessary to note the location of the vertical racks, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In the rounded corners, the racks should be located more tightly. After the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

The installation of the frame starts from a lower level. From the guide profiles make the contours of the future ceiling. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by cutting the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guide profiles that define the shape are connected with racks with stiffeners of such a length that the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface along a given contour on special hangers for drywall "crabs", with which you can adjust the height. Suspensions are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners, the structure is fixed rigidly, additional supports can be added. The frame during installation must be measured by level. After fixing the main structure that defines the contour of our future ceiling, install rack profiles at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also with a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes the transverse jumpers are not fixed, so that they can be moved, fitting drywall joints under the fastening.

Suspensions are attached to the ceiling using two dowels with a screw 8 * 80. The profiles are interconnected with self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 * 11.

Sheet installation

Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass, or foam sheets and the electrical wiring can be routed. Then the ceiling is mounted. Sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.

It is better to cut and remove the excess on the spot than to get an unwanted gap between the plates. To make it easier to bend drywall during installation, covering smooth and rounded elements, the part can be cut with reverse side transverse slots and break the material along them. Some advise for this purpose to simply pre-moisten the sheets a little.

We proceed to the installation of plates, using self-tapping screws with fine threads, you can take the size 3.5 * 25 and 3.5 * 32. The operation is best performed with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly sinking the hat into the surface.

It is unacceptable for it to pass through the sheet completely, if this happens, you need to step back a few centimeters and redo the mount.

The fastening pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by fixing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets in order to get neat joints and cut the material less. If two trimmed slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front part needs to be slightly scraped obliquely with a knife in order to perfectly align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main array of the ceiling is fixed, the threshold sheathing begins. First, the elements of the side part are attached, and only then the lower plates.

When all the plates are installed, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are glued with a sickle mounting tape, and all external corners are fixed and leveled with special corners. For straight lines use metal corners, and for smooth and rounded - a special flexible plastic corner. The technique of its fastening is simple, a layer of plaster is smeared on the corner of the structure, into which the corner is sunk, and the excess solution that protrudes through the holes is removed with a spatula. After drying with a second layer of plaster, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the hats of the screws. Pre-check if there are any speakers, and twist them manually.

Plaster all seams flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster have dried, putty the entire surface of the ceiling, you can immediately use the finishing mortar. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned of unevenness and sagging of the plaster with a construction grinding fine-grained float. If holes for spotlights were not previously made in the slabs, they can be cut out with a special drill-glass of the required diameter, electrical wiring wires are pulled into the holes.

At this stage, glue ceiling baguette on special glue or plaster. After that, the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Painting different levels of the ceiling in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with a special paper adhesive tape, which will eliminate paint smudges. First, the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After completion of work, spotlights are mounted, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or drywall mounts.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.