Preparation of beds in the fall under the foliage. Autumn work to prepare the garden for winter. Mulching the garden in autumn

Save so you don't lose!

Many novice gardeners calm down from worries by the end of autumn and leave the beds until spring without special attention. Those who have been taking care of the land for more than a year know that the next year's harvest will largely depend on the state in which the garden leaves in the winter.
In autumn, it is necessary to make a number of techniques that will become the basis for the good development and fruiting of vegetable crops, as well as less hassle next year.

The main rule for a high yield with minimal cost labor is neatness. It is precisely how scrupulously we approach the cleanliness of our beds that largely determines their infestation with diseases and pests. Most of these enemies of the gardener not only infect plants during the season, but, remaining on plant debris, successfully overwinter and infect crops of subsequent seasons.

We clean the garden from plant residues. Therefore, even if the crop of the current year was harvested with attention, the beds could accumulate the remains of cultivated crops, weeds, wind-blown debris. By winter, they must be carefully collected and laid in compost heap, and parts of plants affected by diseases should be completely removed from the site or burned.

There are several rules:

Autumn digging, as the basis for preparing for spring plantings surface cleaning, the earth also needs autumn digging. Today, many gardeners are arguing on this issue, but if you look at the advantages of this agricultural technique, it still turns out that doing it is more useful than harmful. Why?

The dug up earth freezes better - this is a good prevention against fungal, viral, bacterial infections and insect pests wintering in it. Saturated with oxygen. Acquires a looser structure. Holds snow well. It is better saturated with spring moisture. Part of the seeds of weeds that have fallen on its surface during the growing season fall to a depth from which they cannot rise. And in the spring, it is even easier to take care of a garden bed that has been treated since autumn.

In addition, it is for autumn digging that it is recommended to apply the main fertilizer, lime, clay and other components aimed at improving the soil. Only in autumn it is possible to deepen the arable layer by cultivating the land. Thus, it will not be possible to replace autumn digging, especially for heavy clay and acidic soils, with spring digging, since they have different tasks and advantages. Only on light soils can this agricultural method be abandoned in favor of spring work, replacing autumn digging with surface loosening.

How to properly dig the soil in the fall

To achieve the greatest effect, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the autumn digging:

the first stage is the cleaning of the beds from the plants cultivated on it;
the second - surface loosening of the earth in order to provoke a new wave of weed growth;
the third is the pre-winter digging itself.

Usually, autumn digging is carried out at the end of September (where winter begins earlier) and up to the end of October (where autumn is characterized by a measured decrease in temperatures). The main thing is to guess the moment before the onset of prolonged rains.

The soil coming out from under the shovel is not loosened, but left in clods. In this state, it freezes better, accumulates more snow, and in areas with a slight slope it retains spring melt water.

The depth of digging is chosen depending on the cultivated layer. Usually it is about 20 cm, but in general from 15 to 35 cm. On lands that need to increase the fertile layer once every three years, the digging depth is increased by 3-5 cm with the obligatory turning over of the layer and fertilizing.

We prepare the beds.
On well-cultivated soils, during autumn digging, the earth layer is not turned over.

Disinfection

It happens that the crops in the beds were very badly damaged by diseases and therefore the soil after them must be disinfected. Here good decision there is not only deep digging with a turnover of the reservoir, but also the sowing of green manure (for example, white mustard), the introduction of semi-rotted cow manure, the spreading of ash, the cultivation of the soil with any microbiological preparation, and the scalding of the earth with boiling water. If possible, you can plant the vegetative mass of marigolds into the soil. In cases where none of the above is at hand, spread the straw over the bed and burn it.

When making organic fertilizers the best choice is cow dung. It is scattered over the surface of the beds in the amount of 3 - 6 kg per 1 sq. m, and carefully dug up, planting in the soil on the same day, to a depth of 15 cm. The result of manure application is observed within 4-7 years (depending on the type of soil), so it is not necessary to apply it annually, but should be applied every 3 - 4 years. In addition, not all crops respond well to it, therefore, it is introduced under the most responsive of them - potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes.
An even more effective option is the combination of organic matter with mineral fertilizers. But here it is necessary to remember that it does not make sense to introduce nitrogen for autumn digging, but only the phosphorus-potassium group. Here great choice potassium sulphate can become - it has calcium, magnesium and no chlorine, and it can be used on any soil. For light sandy and sandy loamy soils - kalimag. From phosphate fertilizers - superphosphate, phosphate rock.

We build warm beds.

Highly good option for late autumn application, narrowly targeted complex fertilizers marked "autumn". Today they can be found on sale not only with recommendations for use for a particular crop, but also in packages labeled “for strawberries”, “for grapes”. This facilitates the selection and ensures the literacy of the application.

Warm beds

A good owner does not waste anything. Therefore, at the time of collecting plant residues, many gardeners form warm beds. Plant debris, fallen leaves, cut branches just go into the dug trenches. During the winter, all this rots and becomes an excellent food for plants.

The earth must not be empty

In areas with high winds, on slopes, and even where the land already needs to be updated, planting green manure for the winter is a very good agronomic technique. It can be rapeseed, winter rye, winter vetch or oats. In addition to the fact that their roots will loosen the soil, and the vegetative mass will become an excellent organic fertilizer, these crops will bring other benefits: they will retain snow on the soil surface, protect the earth from leaching and weathering, and protect plantings (for example, strawberries) from spring return frosts.

Green manure can be sown in several stages: already in August, then the planting will have to be repeated later, or in September. If the crops were postponed to a later date - it does not matter either - they will sprout in the spring and still have time to fulfill their function. Podzimnye planting It will not be superfluous to think about winter plantings before winter. Crops planted in autumn will sprout two weeks earlier, give hardened, disease-resistant seedlings, save spring time work and allow re-sowing. Most often, carrots, beets, salads, dill and parsley are sown before winter, planted winter garlic and onion sets.

We carry out winter landings.

It is necessary to start winter crops no earlier than with stable thermometer readings around 0 ° C and continue until the first stable frosts on pre-prepared beds.

Crop rotation.

And finally, crop rotation. The condition of the soil, the contamination of the garden with weeds, the prevalence of insect pests, the mass reproduction of bacterial and fungal diseases, and the need to apply certain fertilizers depend on how well it is thought out and observed. Therefore, if it is not there, it is precisely in the autumn period, when the beds are empty, that you need to be patient, pick up a pencil, study the characteristics of crops and draw up a plan for their alternation.

In autumn, you can take care of the beds for the next year, because in the spring there is always so little time.

To dig or not to dig
Exist different ways tillage. The traditional farming system recommends an annual fall digging. But is it necessary to do so?

Supporters organic farming it is not recommended to carry out this procedure, because when digging, the soil layer turns over, and the microorganisms that live on top do not take root well in deeper layers (and vice versa). In the absence of a sufficient amount of organic matter, the soil is gradually depleted, and its restoration is required.

The best ways to restore the soil are the use of green manure and mulching.

Sowing green manure
A common way to prepare and restore the soil is to sow green manure (mustard, oats, rye, phacelia, vetch). But this should be done immediately after harvesting and vacating the beds (in August) or in early spring.

Mulching
it the best way soil preparation and restoration. And it is not too late to mulch even in October. Mulching performs many functions at once: it preserves soil moisture, prevents overheating in the heat, reduces the number of weeds and freezing of the soil in winter, keeps it loose and prevents the formation of a soil crust.

The soil under a layer of mulch is moistened, acquires a loose structure. In her in in large numbers get divorced earthworms create favorable conditions for the work of soil microorganisms.

Where to get mulch
As a mulching material, you can use a variety of organic matter: weeds weeded in the garden (before the seeds ripen), mowed grass, compost, fallen leaves or ready-made leaf humus, needles, sawdust, straw, peat, medium-sized wood chips, crushed tree bark, seed husks, chaff.
It is also possible to use inorganic mulch - roofing material, expanded clay, cardboard.

Preparing a bed for tomatoes
In the fall, you can prepare a bed for tomatoes for next year. It is best if it is fenced. After harvesting the previous crop, the ground can be slightly loosened with a flat cutter and mulch can be laid on it with a layer of 10–15 cm. It is good if it is semi-rotted compost, leaf litter, straw.

The laid mulch should be watered with a solution of an EM preparation (for example, Baikal) for the fastest decomposition. Big choice biological preparations for the soil are available on the website https://argo-geser.ru/. The next year, the land at the place of processing will be loose and nutritious and ready for planting seedlings.

When you can not do without digging
If the site has a slope, during autumn digging, small ridges of earth are raked across the slope to retain rainwater in autumn and melt water in spring.

If organic fertilizers (manure or compost), as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and mineral additives (sand or clay) are applied to the soil, this also requires digging the earth.

Acidic soils require liming, which is usually carried out during autumn digging, once every 5–6 years. The introduction of lime not only deoxidizes the soil, but also increases fertility.

If you still have to dig up the beds, it is better to do it with a pitchfork in order to less destroy the soil structure and save earthworms.

Garden beds after harvesting need to be properly prepared for the spring sowing season, the best time for this is autumn. In addition to preparing the beds, it is necessary to remove and burn the vegetable tops left after harvesting, to carry out a set of necessary measures for the arrangement of warm beds. In this article - all the necessary activities on how to prepare the garden for winter. Proper preparation of the garden for the winter is a guarantee of a rich harvest.

autumn garden plot plant debris must be collected.

To ensure the harvest of vegetables next year, preparing the beds in the fall is a necessary and important event. Work in the garden should begin with the cleaning of tops and weeds from the beds. Old grass is a favorite wintering place for garden pests and rodents, so preparing the beds for winter begins with their thorough cleaning.

The tops of vegetable plants, plant debris and weeds can be destroyed in two ways:

Burn - when plant residues are burned, pathogens are destroyed infectious diseases and pests. Ash can be used to fertilize garden beds and garden trees.
Prepare compost - this method of weed disposal is longer than burning, but the resulting nutrient substrate will help to inexpensively and qualitatively increase the fertility of garden beds.

How to properly prepare compost

Winter compost should be prepared a little differently than summer compost. Plant residues are suitable for composting, which are not removed from suburban area, including not only vegetable tops, but also branches of trees and shrubs, weeds, household waste, animal manure, bird droppings.

It is very important that in winter the compost heap does not freeze, is not eroded by precipitation and is not exposed to wind, so it must be done according to all the rules.

It is very important to ensure the decomposition of the ingredients in winter period, for which it is necessary to prepare a rectangular shallow hole in the ground, on the bottom of which the cut branches of shrubs and trees are laid. Then, weeds and waste are layered, layered with manure and bird droppings.

It is useful to add double superphosphate, potash fertilizers, ash, lime or dolomite flour. For better air exchange side and end walls are laid with narrow poles. The height of the compost heap should not exceed 1.2 meters from the bottom of the trench, while the penetration into the soil is assumed to be 0.5 - 0.8 m. The pile is shed with infusion of weeds diluted with slurry. Soil is laid on top with a layer of 30 cm, the dock sides are covered with a thinner layer of soil and sheltered from rain.

The components put into the compost rot by the beginning of summer, allowing you to get a nutrient supplement to the soil that doubles fertility, and also get rid of debris and weeds along the way.

Bed preparation

Tool for digging and loosening beds.

Preparing the garden for wintering includes digging the beds, which can be done the classic way, radically dug up the beds. In this case, large clods are not broken, leaving them until spring. With such an autumn digging, moisture is well preserved in large clods of garden soil, therefore, when leveling the soil in spring, the percentage of moisture remains high.

The second option for processing the garden in the fall is to loosen the soil surface to a depth of no more than 5 cm, for which Fokin's flat cutter is used. It is useful to mulch the loosened soil with sawdust and ash, sometimes it is practiced to sow green manure herbs, the seedlings of which are embedded in the ground when digging in the spring.

Preparing the soil for winter involves creating a balanced ecological system in the garden that is closest to natural natural conditions using mulch and sowing green manure.

Siderates for winter sowing

Green manure roots penetrate deep into the soil, loosening it.

A reliable way to restore soil fertility is the sowing of green manure, which does not require large expenditures during planting. Green manure - one or more annual crops (mixture) that quickly increase their green mass and develop a powerful root system. The root system of grasses penetrates into the deep layers of the soil, loosening and enriching its composition. The ground part of the plants serves for snow retention, is used as mulch when mowing, is embedded in the ground (green manure).

Siderates are used based on the purpose and the desired end result:

Loosening the soil - ideally loosen heavy soil on garden beds rye, mustard, oats, rapeseed.
Soil disinfection from pathogenic diseases of vegetable crops - winter sowing of a mixture of crops is used, which includes rapeseed, mustard, marigolds, calendula and oats.
Improving soil fertility - a mixture of vetch with oats or rye, mustard with legumes, alfalfa, sweet clover.
Mulching - phacelia, vetch, alfalfa.

Sowing green manure grasses can be done randomly or in rows in prepared beds after the autumn harvest of vegetable crops. A properly prepared garden can provide a high yield next year.

Sowing vegetables before winter

For early ripening of some vegetable crops, their seeds can be sown in beds in the fall. The harvest of winter vegetables is characterized by early ripening and high vitamin value.

In autumn, you can sow many horticultural crops, good yields can be obtained when growing carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, dill, root parsley, celery, spinach.

The beds for the winter planting of vegetables are chosen in a dry open area, where the wetting of the beds with groundwater and melt water is excluded. It is useful to protect crops from the directed north wind, as well as to mulch the beds with compost or peat. Seeds will be able to successfully winter under a reliable shelter, and in early spring give the first shoots.

It should be remembered that seed consumption during the winter sowing of vegetables can double.

The volume and sequence of autumn work in the garden depends on many factors: from the size of the plot to the mood of the gardener. However, it is important to be aware mandatory list work on preparing the beds in autumn for winter, otherwise next year may not please with a rich harvest.

Certain types of plants are especially demanding on the quality of the soil and its composition. For their growth and fruiting, it is necessary to prepare the site in advance.

Raspberries quickly deplete the soil, remaining in one place for many years. Before planting young plants in the soil, it is necessary to fertilize it. To do this, organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, mixing them with ash and compost. In autumn, the soil is dug up, removing the roots of weeds, then a layer of fertilizer is distributed over its surface and the site is dug up again.

To obtain good harvest potatoes, it is necessary to loosen the ground as much as possible. This can be achieved not only by adding sawdust, compost and sand, but also by deep digging the site.

When preparing the soil for growing cucumbers, you must first disinfect the ground blue vitriol. A week after processing, compost is introduced into the soil and closed up to a shallow depth.

Autumn fertilizers for the garden

Fertilizers that are used in the garden in the fall contain a minimal amount of nitrogen. Agronomists advise paying attention to the packaging with the drug: the manufacturer indicates the seasonality of use on it. Autumn fertilizers contain potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Exceeding the dosage of the introduction of drugs is unacceptable.

A popular autumn fertilizer is superphosphate. It decomposes slowly and is suitable for use in rainy autumn weather. The drug is applied in the amount of 40-50 g per 1 sq.m.

The classic autumn fertilizer is potassium chloride. Its dosage is small and amounts to 10-20 g of the drug per 1 sq.m. It is necessary to work with potassium chloride in a respirator.

You can also fertilize the soil with organic compounds. It is recommended to make rotted manure or compost 1 time in 3-4 years. This will require 3-4 kg of organic matter per 1 sq.m of beds. If bird droppings are used as a fertilizer, the amount of the applied composition is reduced due to its high concentration. It is enough to take 2 kg of litter per 1 sq.m of land.

For a bed on which cabbage will grow, the best fertilizer will become ash. It is also suitable for potatoes, carrots, beets and other vegetable crops. Wood ash is rich in minerals, it reduces the acidity of the soil. With annual top dressing of the soil with ash, it is enough to use 1 glass of fertilizer per 1 sq.m of beds.

What is planted in the autumn before winter in the garden?

traditional culture for autumn planting- onion sets. It is recommended to plant it before the first hard frost, so that the plants have time to take root. Seed material is chosen small, not more than 1 cm in diameter. The depth of planting onions before winter is minimal - about 1 cm.
In the first half of October, garlic is planted before winter. Unlike onions, garlic cloves are buried 5-10 cm into the ground so that the plant does not freeze. After planting, the bed is mulched with fallen leaves, needles or covered with spruce branches.

Spicy plants get along well on the same bed and are suitable for autumn planting. Dill, cilantro and parsley can be planted after the first night frost. A bed with sown furrows is covered with slightly frozen soil and mulched.

For autumn planting, you can use a salad. So that its greens appear on the table as early as possible, the seeds are sown in a greenhouse. At the same time, they do not need special covering material or mulching.

In regions with cold and long winters, beets are planted before winter. Cold-resistant varieties are suitable for such planting. Winter stratification ensures early spring shoots. If not all seeds have overwintered, beets can be planted in the spring.

How to treat the garden in the fall from pests and diseases?

The first stage of pest control is cleaning the garden from organic residues. Pests and bacteria can breed in rotting fruits and diseased foliage, so healthy carrion and leaves are used to make compost, and diseased and rotten ones are destroyed.

You can spray the trees in the garden with special preparations. A solution of vitriol helps fight pests and rot. Bordeaux liquid destroys pathogens of powdery mildew and scab on apple or pear trees. Fruit-bearing shrubs are treated with a solution of soap and soda ash to avoid powdery mildew damage. Spraying with a solution of urea prevents damage to trees by leafworms, aphids, and flower beetles.

Soil preparation in the open field

Proper soil preparation allows it to rest in winter, get rid of pests and prepare for spring planting plants. The garden must be dug up in the fall, improve the structure of the soil, prepare the soil in greenhouses and greenhouses.

Soil structure improvement

The minimum required amount of work in preparing the beds in autumn for winter is the introduction of organic and complex mineral fertilizers enriched with phosphorus and potassium into the soil. If a plot of land is not used for planting garden crops every year, you can feed the soil every few years. For intensively sown beds, an annual top dressing is needed.

For areas with severe clay soil make sand, compost or leaf humus with a small amount of wood ash. This allows you to make the soil more loose, improve its saturation with air and moisture. A good additive for sandy soils will be sawdust mixed with humus or compost. These components retain moisture in the soil. If the soil in the area is acidic, it can be neutralized by adding lime, chalk or dolomite flour to the soil.

Digging the soil in autumn

There are 2 ways to dig a garden and a vegetable garden in the fall:

Non-moldboard - when an earthen lump raised with a shovel does not need to be turned over and broken. This method of cultivating the land allows you to preserve its natural microflora.
The second method is dumping, when the raised clod of earth must be turned over and its upper layer embedded in the ground on the bayonet of a shovel. In this case, weed seeds will be deep in the ground and will not be able to germinate to the surface. The larvae of pests, on the contrary, will be directly on the surface of the earth and freeze.

You can dig up the ground with a bayonet shovel or a pitchfork. The recommended machining depth is per shovel bayonet. Beds that are being prepared for early cultures, it is better to dig to a shallower depth. In this case, they will dry out faster in the spring.

With any method of autumn tillage, agronomists do not recommend breaking the ground, otherwise the soil will freeze. By spring, large clods will be saturated with moisture and become crumbly.

Tillage in a greenhouse

The best option for autumn soil preparation in a greenhouse or greenhouse is complete replacement fertile soil layer. To do this, a layer of soil about 10 cm thick is removed and replaced with fresh turf. Pest larvae live in the upper layer of the earth, pathogenic microorganisms and spores of various fungi remain here, so this operation heals the microclimate of the greenhouse.

It must be remembered that simple garden soil is not suitable for a greenhouse. Plant pests also live in it. The soil can be prepared independently by mixing humus, sand and sawdust. It is evenly laid out on the beds in the greenhouse and is additionally processed with copper sulphate or potassium permanganate. After cultivation, the soil is mulched, and the closed greenhouse awaits the start of the new gardening season.

The land that is removed from the greenhouse should not fall into the garden, as it is rich in pathogenic microflora. For its disinfection, it is necessary to select separate plot and treat the soil with lime. Next summer it is carefully dug up and after a season returns to the greenhouse or garden beds.

Mulching

Soil mulching provides plants Better conditions for wintering. Sheltered soil retains more moisture and heat, while it continues to breathe. These works are carried out in late October or early November, when the autumn garden is already ready to meet winter.

Various materials are used for soil mulching:

fallen leaves, which will rot during the winter and enrich the soil with minerals;
needles, which prevent soil freezing and retain enough moisture in it;
bark and wood shavings;
stems of garden plants;
partially rotted sawdust;
hay.

You can mulch like mature plants ( fruit bushes, flowers, perennial shoots), and beds with vegetable crops planted before winter. The mulch is laid out on the soil in an even layer and left until spring. Additional uses covering materials in this case is not required.

Sowing green manure

Green manures are an effective organic fertilizer and good care garden in autumn. Most often, they are planted on the beds in the fall, when the crop is harvested. Siderates not only enrich the soil with useful trace elements, but also protect it from weeds. To do this, use plants that have a powerful root system and quickly gain green mass.

As green manure plants are often planted from the legume family: lentils, lupins, alfalfa. It can also be winter rye or wheat, mustard, amaranth, buckwheat, etc. Plants planted as green manure not only increase soil fertility and make it loose, but also protect the earth from scab, various rot and insects living in the soil.

After mowing, the plants can be used as mulching material.

Winter siderates allow you to hold snow on the beds, which provides the soil with the necessary moisture.

When landing green manure on autumn garden it is necessary to remember the main principle of choosing crops: the same bed cannot be used several times to grow plants belonging to the same family. This means that rapeseed, which belongs to the cruciferous family, cannot be planted in the garden after or before cabbage.

When green manure grows up to 20-25 cm, they are mowed. This must be done before the seeds appear, otherwise useful plants next season will become uncontrollable weeds. Green stems close up in the soil. When decomposed, they, like the roots remaining in the ground, will enrich the soil with useful substances.

Green manure planted in the garden before winter and mowed in spring can be left in the beds for several weeks. Such soil mulching will accelerate the decomposition of the root system remaining in the soil.

Composting

In autumn, a lot of foliage remains in the garden, and ripened leaf compost - the best remedy to saturate the soil with humic compounds and essential trace elements. It restores the fertility of mail and improves its structure.

Compost made from fallen leaves is suitable for any type of soil. It makes sandy soil more moisture-intensive, adds breathability to clay soil. Partially rotted foliage can be used for mulching shrubs, perennial flowers or plants planted before winter: garlic, onions, herbs.

To get fresh compost every season, agronomists recommend preparing 3 compost bins on the site. The first is used to lay a new batch of leaves, grass and plant residues. In the second compost bin, last year's mixture of leaves, grass and earth ripens. In the third container, a portion of fully matured compost is formed, which can be used to fertilize the beds and feed garden plants during the season.

The device of warm and high beds

The decay of organic matter, which is used in the construction of warm and high beds, provides plants nutrients and warmth. Since the process of decay of plant residues lasts for several years, all this time you can get a rich harvest of early vegetables from the garden: cucumbers, zucchini, etc. After the lower layers rot, the soil can be transferred to the garden, and new layers can be poured into the beds.

Winterizing the beds in the fall is a good time to build a warm bed, as there is a lot of organic matter left in the garden. The type of beds is chosen, focusing on the depth of occurrence ground water. If they are low, the construction of a warm bed is buried in the soil. When the groundwater level in the area is high, equip a high bed. In both cases, the structure requires a fence. It can be made from boards, slate, plastic.

Large organic matter is laid at the bottom of the future warm bed: uprooted stumps, trimmed boards, sawn branches. The larger these components are, the longer the life of the beds will be.

The next layer is fine organics. For these purposes, the tops of vegetable plants, branches of shrubs, fallen leaves, mowed grass, straw, paper, etc.

A layer of immature compost or manure is laid on top of fine organic matter. It will stimulate the decomposition of the lower organic layers.

The top layer is a layer of turf cut and turned upside down along with grass. Ready compost is laid out on top of it.

Each layer of a warm bed is spilled with water. Moisture accelerates the process of decay of organic matter and increases the temperature inside a warm bed. To speed up decomposition warm bed can be watered with a biologically active preparation, however, the regular use of such products reduces its service life.

Protecting the trunks of fruit trees

One of the stages of caring for the garden in the fall is the autumn whitewashing of the trunks. It is held in October. Covered with white lime, tree trunks will be protected from the impact sun rays, which in frosty weather provoke cracking of the bark. To give the solution of lime bactericidal properties, special preparations are added to it, for example, Farmayod. When sulfur is added to lime, the whitewashing compound provides trees with protection from hares, which in winter time feed on the bark of garden plants.

Another effective way protect the garden from representatives of the rodent family - tying trunks with spruce branches. It allows the bark of the tree to breathe, but repels animals. You can tie stems of wormwood to the trunks. Its smell repels both hares and mice.

autumn pruning

autumn pruning fruit trees involves 2 ways: shortening and thinning. These activities not only help the garden grow and bear fruit, but also protect the trees from branches broken under the weight of snow. Pruning the garden in the fall also has a sanitary focus. It is necessary to remove dried or diseased branches in order to maintain the health of the entire tree or shrub.

Thinning the crown will provide the plant good ventilation and the ability to get enough ultraviolet light. Young trees are thinned out every year until their crown is fully formed. To do this, only a few main branches are left on the trunk, cutting off all the young shoots. After thinning, the seedlings are watered and fed with mineral fertilizers so that the plant recovers from stress faster. The crown of mature trees is thinned out no more than 1 time in 2 years. When pruning, it is necessary to remove all improperly growing shoots.

They resort to shortening the branches so that the crown of the trees has correct form and growing in the right direction. Branches are shortened to a bud, which will ensure the growth of the shoot in the right direction. Agronomists recommend forming the crown of trees so that their branches are parallel to the ground. This makes it easier to harvest and further care behind the plant.

All diseased and lichen-covered branches are subject to removal at the end of September or October. It is worth pruning them in the autumn, as diseased shoots are sensitive to cold. This can affect the health of the entire tree. After trimming, sections with a diameter exceeding 10 mm are treated with garden pitch.

Autumn pruning of trees is carried out only in regions with temperate climate. It is not recommended to carry out it in the cold zone: the trees do not have time to recover before the onset of winter, and the bark on the cuts freezes. In the future, this leads to drying and death of the entire tree.

Cleaning of tools and inventory

When the preparation of the beds for winter is completed and there is no work left in the garden, it is necessary to drain the water from the barrels, and turn the containers themselves upside down. Thorough cleaning and washing requires all garden equipment, from shovels to buckets and secateurs. In autumn, you can sharpen a working tool: bayonet shovels, flat cutters, scissors, etc. Then in the spring, at the height of the garden season, you will not need to spend time on preparatory work.

After cleaning and revision, you should make a list of necessary purchases: garden tools, seeds, fertilizers, biological products. Buying the little things and tools necessary for the garden in stages, you can save money and prepare in advance for the new summer and garden season.

Fighting weeds

Twice-time tillage and its continuous loosening in the summer in no way contribute to its improvement. Autumn tillage under vegetable crops should be made before the onset of stable cold weather and the rainy season. best time for a similar task, the second half of September - the first decade of October is considered.

It is advisable to start soil preparation with light loosening of the topmost soil layer and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, it is easiest to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting with

harrowing. Professionals recommend using Fokin's flat cutter, which simultaneously destroys weeds and loosens the soil. Even if later on the beds a shoot of young weeds appears, they will be destroyed during the spring loosening of the soil. Regular carrying out of this work leads to the destruction of such weeds as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.

Working as a cultivator and walk-behind tractor

Most landowners prefer machining soil, which significantly increases the yield, and on overgrown with perennial grasses and uncultivated soils, it is simply an indispensable agricultural technique.

When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the cutter creates a finely cloddy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm, which is considered the most suitable for these jobs.

Among other things, the motor cultivator allows loosening row spacings, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, it should be immediately taken into account that the cultivator is able to work only on previously plowed soil. That is, if the site is sodden, then the walk-behind tractor will be most welcome. At the same time, all the green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.

Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft that allows you to use a variety of attachments. When using a cutter on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of vegetable seeds and favorable for growing young seedlings. Such tillage is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. AT open ground the number of factors affecting the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and “downy” land is simply unacceptable for it.

Usually, cultivated plants need abundant food. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues, the formation of humus. Soil tillage stimulates root growth

plant systems and allows it to penetrate into the depths with less effort.

Once every five years, deep tillage may be required. For this, walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a set of mounted implements are suitable. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. Such work is of particular benefit when growing table root vegetables.

Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.

About the benefits of fertilizers

In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. In the process of loosening, they are evenly mixed with the fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for a good quality product.

During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to the plots of cucumber and cabbage seedlings planned for next year (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except nitrogen, can be applied to all crops. The depth of digging should be at least 20 cm.

If you want to deepen the arable horizon, then keep in mind that in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On acidic soil, liming will be a prerequisite. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), tops and plant residues (except for stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. On such ridges you can not only sow ahead of time, but the soil on them warms up better.

How to treat a plot on which nothing has grown for a long time

In the first spring, the soddy area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In autumn, the site is again dug up, but already to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the sod is at a depth and no longer germinates. It remains only to fertilize and level the surface with a rake.

In autumn, the area treated in spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.

The next autumn, after harvesting, the site is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the sod will decompose, and the weed will die. Subsequently, the soil is processed as mastered.

Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t feel like digging up the site, when all the work can fit into light tillage with a rake!

Autumn is a responsible time of the year for a beginner gardener. The foundation for the future harvest is being laid right now.

In autumn, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The lumps will freeze, and with them the wintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug-up layer, and moisture can seep into the depths without hindrance.

Cleaning the garden is a good reason to organize a compost heap. You can dump plant residues into it. But only not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can partially survive in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. It is impossible to throw into the compost and weeds with already formed seeds, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.

autumn sowing

In order to carry out the autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is required for winter crops).

Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But only not in those places where the soil does not dry out for a long time in the spring or flooding occurs. Crops with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature becomes close to 2-3 ° C. In the central regions of the Non-Chernozem zone, this happens in the second half of October - the first ten days of November. If sown too early, seedlings may die from autumn frosts.

About root crops

If the weather is dry and non-frosty, then you can not rush to harvest root crops. Indeed, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further keeping quality.

Carrots and other root crops intended for storage should be ideal: even, without mechanical damage and signs of disease. All "freaks" are used for canning and processing.

OUR ADVICE
Onion sets less than 1 cm in diameter room conditions poorly preserved, dries quickly. It is better to plant it before winter.
For winter sowing of small seedlings, ridges are made and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs -15-20 cm.
Plantings are mulched with peat with a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.
Medium and late varieties white cabbage more often removed in one go. Cabbage intended for fresh storage is harvested in late dates(But don't let her freeze). Short-term frosts (4-5 ° C) will not damage the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.

Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.

For planting, the largest cloves are selected, which are located with outer side bulbs. Those in the center should not be used for planting. They are planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. A clove from a clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Aisles are wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. And yes, it's easier to take care of.

IMPORTANT!
On the small areas can be sown in frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.
In this case, it is necessary to sprinkle the seeds with dry earth, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.
The rate of sowing seeds before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.
The sowing depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).

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