Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a Russian bathhouse. How to insulate the ceiling in the bath: modern materials and work technology. Video - Manual application of ecowool

Bath is an outbuilding of a special category.

Due to the increased temperature regime and excessive moisture, approach to the process of warming and choice of materials should be special.

Even now, with huge selection thermal insulation materials are widely used folk, proven for centuries thermal insulation methods.

This method - most common method insulation in the bath building. It allows you to carry out the process quickly and comfortably. At the same time, the useful volume of the room does not decrease, and the thermal insulation performs its functions more efficiently.

Important: before insulating the ceiling in the bath, regardless of the type of material used, it is necessary to carefully process all wooden structures antifungal solutions.

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Classically used for insulation of rooms, especially floors and ceilings. Due to its high hygroscopicity, the use for insulation in the bath is associated with increased vapor and waterproofing. First of all, a vapor barrier is laid on the wooden ceiling. It is advisable to lay two layers, perpendicular to each other. The overlap of the strips of material on each other should be 10-15 cm.

Seams are carefully sealed putty or tape. Fixing is done with construction stapler. The edges of the vapor barrier should protrude along the perimeter by 40-50 cm onto the roof.

A layer of expanded clay is poured onto the fixed vapor barrier membrane, 20-30 cm thick, depending on the climatic conditions this locality. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to lay a crate of wooden bars, with a section of 50 * 50 mm.

This frame fits waterproofing membrane. It might be tight polyethylene film or roofing felt. All seams must also be carefully sealed. The waterproofing is fixed with the help of a counter-lattice of 5 x 20 mm laths.

Important: when insulating the ceiling in the bath as a vapor barrier, regardless of the material of the insulation, it is recommended to use films with foil on one side. This side of the insulation is laid inside the room, which creates an additional heat-repellent effect inside the bath.

Insulation with sawdust

Are folk classic material to insulate the ceiling in the bath. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the plank surface of the ceiling. In extreme cases, it can be roofing material or thick polyethylene.

Seams are sealed, the margin around the perimeter on the roof of the building is 30-40 cm. A mixture of clay and sawdust in proportions of 2 to 3 is thoroughly mixed and laid on top of the vapor barrier with a layer of 10-15 cm.

After that, you need to wait for the material to dry thoroughly, this can be up to 30 days. For the first few days, the surface must be sprinkled with a little water to avoid cracking. If they do appear, you need to fill them with liquid clay.

After the clay dries, another 10 cm layer of sawdust can be poured on it to improve the thermal insulation properties. The whole "pie" is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, for example, roofing material, always with sealing of the seams.

Warming with mineral wool

Use is a more modern way of warming and at the same time one of the most effective.

Wherein must be remembered, what mineral wool it is very hygroscopic and, as in the case of expanded clay, its thorough isolation from moisture is necessary.

The wooden ceiling is covered from above with two layers of vapor barrier, while the bottom layer is with foil side, upper, perpendicular to the lower, without it. The material is fixed with a stapler, the seams are glued with metallic tape. The overlap of the strips is 10 cm. A margin of 40 cm on the roof along the perimeter is also fixed to the roof with brackets using a stapler.

mineral wool boards, 10 cm thick are placed between the beams right next to them directly on the vapor barrier. At the same time, it is necessary that they fit tightly into the inter-beam space. In this case, additional fixing of the material is not necessary.

If plates are used 5 cm thick, they need to be laid in two layers in a cross way. Such a coating will be even more effective due to the absence of cold bridges. From above, on top of the insulation, waterproofing is laid directly on the floor beams in 2 layers. It can be roofing material, thick polyethylene, or more modern roll materials.

Between insulation and insulation it is necessary to provide air layer 3-5 cm. If the thickness of the beams is 15 cm or more, then the necessary gap will be present. If the thickness is less and the insulation plates are on the same level with the beams, it is required to build a crate from 5 x 5 cm bars. The waterproofing is fixed with a construction stapler to the beams or crate.

Important: if necessary, on top of the "pie" of insulation on the ceiling of the bath, you can make a wooden flooring from boards, 2.5 cm thick, fixing them to the beams or crate with nails.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside with your own hands?

In some cases, it is advisable to carry out the insulation of the ceiling in the bath building from the inside. Wherein commonly used mineral wool, slabs 8 cm thick.

Polyfoam and others polymer materials use Not recommended, due to their tendency to smolder and release harmful substances at high temperatures.

In this case 2 options are possible:

1. Warming flat ceiling . In this case, first the entire surface of the ceiling is covered with waterproofing. To install the insulation, it is necessary to fix the support bars to the ceiling, with a section of 5 * 10 cm, which are installed on the edge and fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws directly on the waterproofing. In the gaps between the bars, mineral wool slabs are tightly laid flush with the lower plane of the bars. At the same time, between the insulation and waterproofing on the ceiling there should be an air gap of 2 cm. From below, from the side of the room, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is covered with a layer of foil vapor barrier, which is fixed to the bars with a construction stapler. Elements are attached directly to the vapor barrier interior decoration ceiling, usually wooden slats or lining.
2. The process of insulating the ceiling in a bath with beams pointing inward is similar to the situation when the ceiling is flat. The difference is that the waterproofing is attached to the ceiling in a single layer, hugging the beams, if it was not installed when laying the boards in the attic. The insulation is placed in the space between the beams and insulated with a vapor barrier as in the situation described above.

Roof insulation in the bath

For better heat retention in the bath, it would be advisable to insulate the roof as well. To do this, you can use foam and mineral wool.

When using mineral wool, waterproofing layer required, which is placed on the outer crate under the elements of the roofing material. Mineral wool slabs, 5 cm thick, fit tightly into the space between the rafters and are fixed with self-tapping screws with mushroom caps to the elements of the crate.

From the side of the attic, a layer of vapor barrier is fixed along the rafters. The process is carried out using a stapler, while the staples are hammered directly into the rafters. Elements are mounted on top of the vapor barrier to the rafters inner lining such as sheets of plywood.

If roof insulation is carried out using, the process does not require vapor barrier installation. The thickness of the insulation layer must be at least 5 cm. The sheets are attached between the rafters with glue or self-tapping screws with fungi. Slots are filled with mounting foam.

– a necessary process for comfortable operation this room. With due observance of the technology of insulation and vapor and waterproofing, do this job on your own won't be a big deal.

For better insulation baths, it is recommended to make roof insulation, in this case thermal energy will be even better preserved indoors, which will ultimately have a positive effect on fuel consumption.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in the mineral wool bath from the inside with your own hands, see the video:

It is an essential rule for arranging a comfortable steam room. Until now, the old ones have not lost their relevance. folk methods, which provide an optimal microclimate in a room with a high temperature regime.

Along with them, excellent insulating performance is demonstrated by new materials and technologies. To do it right insulation work with your own hands, you need to consider all the available options and choose the most acceptable for yourself.

Popular ways of warming

Based on the experience of professionals, mineral wool, clay, expanded clay and earth can be distinguished from all materials. A bathhouse, a steam room and a washing room can be insulated in several ways and various materials suitable for such a procedure can be used in work.

Folk methods are known for inexpensive components, environmental friendliness and fire safety, but their implementation will require more time and effort. Modern ways, on the contrary, are simpler in terms of installation, but the materials will entail certain costs.

What cannot be applied?

If a decision is made to opt for modern materials, it is worth remembering that foam plastic should never be used in such work. This affordable and popular thermal insulation, when heated, emits chemicals that poison the air in the room, and in places where it touches a hot pipe, it can completely melt.

Layered construction

A properly executed insulation technology consists of several layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where the materials are arranged in the following order:

• waterproofing ( membrane film);
• protective foil.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer averages from 20 centimeters and depends on the type of roof (the presence of an attic), functional purpose premises and climate in the region in which the building was erected.

As a rule, in the steam room these parameters are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.

Mineral wool

Baths with mineral wool are equally suitable for rooms with and without an attic. The main thing is to provide the ceiling with floor beams, on which the insulation cake will be fixed.

This method is quite simple to implement and does not entail large financial costs. Before the thermal insulation is installed, all wooden elements processed antiseptics. Further, the whole work consists of stages.

The vapor barrier material is divided into several types: ordinary, aluminum foil and membrane film. For bath room aluminum-coated insulation or foil isol is best suited. Along with protection from moisture, it provides heat reflection inside the steam room, which allows you to save on heating by two or three times.

canvases vapor barrier film fixed with an overlap on a wooden beam with a construction stapler. Using foil tape, carefully glue all joints. This is the most effective method provide the bath with thermal insulation correctly and efficiently.

Lathing installation

FROM inside rooms perpendicular wooden beams a crate is nailed, which fixes the insulation and is sheathed on top with facing material.

At one end, a gap is left between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative cladding, which will reflect heat, and the insulation layer will tightly settle on the foil insulation.

The selected type of insulation is pressed into the resulting space between the ceiling beams of the steam room. There should be no gaps between the sheets of mineral wool; for this, the material is compressed and installed on the seats with little effort.

In order for this process to pass without difficulty, the beams are fixed from each other at a distance less than 1 - 1.5 cm from the width of the wool.

Waterproofing pad

For reliable protection insulation from moisture and contaminants from the outside, it is covered with polyethylene or thermal film.

As in the case of a vapor barrier, the film is fixed to load-bearing structure with a construction stapler. For natural circulation air between the heat-insulating and waterproofing layer provide a ventilation gap.

Installation of decorative cladding

The warming pie is complete decorative trim bath ceiling. Cladding panels nailed to ceiling beams finishing nails. A stainless steel screen is usually hung above the heater (at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling). This will protect the roof area from overheating and, as a result, deformation.

To protect the heat-insulating structure from mechanical damage, it is recommended to equip a subfloor in baths with an attic.

The most popular and high-quality cladding for the ceiling of the steam room is lining made of linden wood, larch or aspen.

These types of wood tolerate high temperatures and create a healthy microclimate in the room.

folk materials

In baths with an attic, heat loss is reduced by sawdust, sand and clay. At the beginning of the process attic floor covered with vapor barrier (roofing material, isolon) overlap. From above fall asleep with a twenty-centimeter layer of sawdust, on which earth is poured (a layer of 5 cm).

To increase the thermal insulation effect, sawdust can be mixed with sand or clay mass.

There is an old reliable recipe that meets all the requirements in the baths and you can easily cook it yourself. To do this, a composition is applied to the boards from the side of the attic, 2 cm thick, prepared from cement, clay, sawdust and water in a ratio of 1: 2: 3: 0.7.

After complete drying, a monolithic thermal insulation board and also fire resistant.

Sawdust

It is better to buy sawdust in carpentry shops - they work with well-dried material there, and shavings and sawdust are dry and lightweight.

In ancient times, sawdust was sprinkled with ash on top, but now membrane film serves as an alternative to it. In the event that it is planned to use the attic space, then a plank flooring is installed with a ventilation gap.

Expanded clay

If there are no sawdust, do not despair, since you can insulate the ceiling of the bath with the help of common expanded clay. It is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, but it absorbs moisture, because of this, a vapor barrier device will be required from the side of the steam room.

Expanded clay is poured onto it (a layer of 30 cm) and the layers are completed waterproofing material. Flooring is installed upon request.

» Insulation of the ceiling in the bath

The ceiling can rightly be called the most important, in terms of insulation, construction. And anyone who is familiar with the laws of physics will understand why it is so. After all, warm air is lighter than cold air, which means that it rushes up, when cold air - down. That is why the most heated air and steam are collected under the ceiling of the bath.

It is easy to guess what will happen if it comes into contact with an uninsulated ceiling, which has good thermal conductivity. In addition, the greater the temperature difference, the faster the cooling. (You should not conclude from this that the floor does not need insulation - this is what requires it. Do not forget about, the thermal insulation process of which depends on the material:: or, especially in demand)

That is why we will consider here in detail the insulation of the ceiling of the bath from all sides.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath: what?

How to insulate

The bath ceiling is usually insulated during the construction phase. Therefore, insulation is usually associated with the type of ceiling:

• flat;
• hemmed;
• panel.

Mineral wool(=basalt wool for baths, because it is the most environmentally friendly) can be used in any type, but flooring is considered the most budgetary, so cheaper materials are often chosen for it. Thermal insulation of the bath ceiling with mineral wool is a popular solution.

In any case, mineral wool needs to be isolated from water and steam, for which it is isolated on the one hand with a film or membrane, and on the other - with foil (as the best vapor barrier).

It should only be remembered that the vapor barrier is laid closer to the hot room (steam room, washing room), and the waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation from the side of the attic. For a better understanding, here is a sequence of layers of two "pies".

Hemming consists of:

1. ceiling beams;
2. cranial bars;
3. boards;
4. vapor barrier;
5. insulation;
6. finishing ceiling (eg lining).

Video

The flooring consists of:

1. floor boards;
2. vapor barrier;
3. insulation;
4. at the request of waterproofing (not at all necessary, except when dry sawdust is used, in which case a layer of clay or earth is needed on top for fire safety).

Video

Look at the explanation of the picture above:

Most often, in place of the insulation is mineral wool or glass wool (the latter should not be used only above the steam room).

Expanded clay - a great way to insulate a cheap deck ceiling for baths with a cold attic. You just need to make sure that the walls can withstand the weight of a 30-centimeter layer of this material.

The insulation technology is simple for them: when boards are laid on the wall piping (! About wall insulation) (and there are no floor beams in the project), wax paper is placed on top of them, and expanded clay of different fractions is scattered on top of it, leveled with a rake.

Then a foil is sewn to the boards from below with a stapler, rails for the ventilation gap are attached to it, after which the finishing ceiling is attached. Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay is a time-tested solution.

Styrofoam - the most undesirable material for the ceiling of the bath, because it does not withstand high temperatures, is combustible, and when burned, it also emits smoke with toxic substances. However, it begins to release harmful substances even when heated. However, many people ignore the danger and use it for thermal insulation of the ceiling, because it does not make the structure too heavy and is among the inexpensive and available materials. Well, everyone is the blacksmith of his own happiness. We advise you at least not to put it above the steam room and next to the stove. And check the certificates: sanitary and hygienic and fire.

Styrofoam sheets are stacked with outside the ceiling of the bath on a pre-laid vapor barrier, for example, on a foil isolon. Or, instead of sheets, filling with foam chips is used.

Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room of the bath

The steam room is a special room in the bath, because it is here that any material is subjected to the greatest tests due to the combination of high temperature and humidity.

One of the consequences of exposure to these factors may be the release of volatile compounds, such as phenols or formaldehydes contained in some species. Therefore, the warming of the steam room has to be approached with more care than other rooms.

In addition, next to the chimney, everything literally heats up, and the stove is the main source of sauna fires, so refractory materials will come in handy here.

1. The draft ceiling is covered with waxed paper with a wide overlap at the joints.
2. Bars of 5x5 cm are attached on top of the paper, between which a heater is then placed.
3. The heater is installed.
4. It is closed with a layer of vapor barrier - foil - with careful sealing of all joints and fastening holes with metal tape.
5. Over the foil, slats are stuffed, with the help of which the necessary ventilation gap is formed between the foil and the fine finish of the ceiling.
6. Decorative finishing - finishing ceiling.

You should also familiarize yourself with the features, in particular, those used for external thermal insulation.

Proper insulation of the ceiling of a steam room Russian bath

The temperature in a Russian bath should not rise as high as in a Finnish one. After all, the Russians go to the bathhouse for the sake of steam, while the Finns are satisfied with the dry heat. The optimum upper temperature limit is 90 degrees. It follows from this that in the Russian steam room, materials are subjected to aggression not so much heat as steam.

That is why it is better to refuse to finish the ceiling of the steam room with a clapboard - it is suitable for a Finnish bath, and in a Russian one it is better to take a massive aspen or linden board. The thickness of the tree first gains, then gently gives off heat.

The ventilation gap between the board and the vapor barrier is required; here it is also created by slats stuffed on foil.

Foil is also used in the Russian bath, there are no changes here. It is also better to lay it here in two layers and overlap. In addition to foil, you can use foil kraft paper or Penotherm, for other materials - see their temperature limits. The foil is cast from the ceiling onto the walls - 10-20 cm, and glued at the junction silicone sealant and closed with slats. But this is if the walls are without foil, and if with foil, then the ceiling is fastened with wall metal tape.

The foil is separated from the insulation by a draft ceiling, with a thickness of 25 mm or more. The insulation is taken in three layers of 50 mm (mineral wool) and placed with a shift in the joints so that cold bridges are not created. He does not need any substrate, immediately on the boards.

On top of the insulation, if desired, a membrane is spread in the attic so that the insulation breathes and does not get wet from above.

Insulation of the ceiling of the bath depends on the roof

It has already been said above that there are three ways to install a bath ceiling. In fact, there are two of them - the panel is rarely used. And the rest are distributed between the baths with a cold attic, where they usually make a simple and cheap deck ceiling, and baths with an attic, where hemming technology is used.

The difference between them is, first of all, that the floor is not intended for walking on it, so they don’t even strengthen it with beams, they just put boards on the walls, cover them with paper and put a layer of thermal insulation, often the cheapest, but we have already talked about this.

vapor barrier

Is it possible to do in the bath without a vapor barrier? Of course not, if the tree is a pity. If you don’t tend to spend money on wind and rot and your bath, ceiling, vapor barrier are expensive, this is something you can’t do without. Another thing is that there is a lot of controversy about whether to use foil as a vapor barrier. But this is a matter of faith. In fact, those who cope with such work themselves can find their own answer - having a steam bath with and without foil. By the way, its advantages include high heat resistance, which means that if you put something else for steam protection, then with a temperature range corresponding to a particular bath - Russian or Finnish.

We went through the popular YouTube channels, which talk about baths authoritatively, with knowledge of the matter, people whose opinion we listen to ourselves. But that's just bad luck - they talk a lot about something, but the problem of insulating ceilings, and also does not attract public attention for some reason.

Therefore, do not blame me, an example of expert advice on ceiling insulation will be the video below, made by the Hot Master company - we simply could not find anything more significant.

But interestingly, you will not hear in it standard descriptions. On the contrary, the authors of the video refer to the experience of previous generations and offer the most budgetary, simplest option for organizing both the ceiling itself and insulation to it - this is a completely ingenious floor ceiling, insulated with ... sawdust and clay. Easier nowhere.

You don’t even need to bother with lining - you can make flooring boards finishing ceiling if pre-cut and polished.

Of course, any opinion will be controversial, and you have the right to question it or not consider it expert.

Now, when it is already clear why a ceiling without insulation is warm in the wind, it remains only to wish each owner that in any weather his bathhouse is regularly warmed up and kept warm for the second day.

Where to order or buy

Insulation of the bath ceiling is an important component of construction. Therefore, companies separately indicate the implementation in the list of services provided.

Some craftsmen prefer to perform thermal insulation work on their own. available for them.

In contact with

High-quality thermal insulation is the key to the most comfortable and long-term use of the bath, as well as a guarantee of the absence of additional costs associated with heating this room from the inside. Therefore, how to insulate the bath, namely, the walls, ceiling and floor in it, is one of the most important issues. 4 main surfaces are insulated: roof, floor, ceiling and walls.

As part of this publication, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the nuances of the process during which the thermal insulation of the bath ceiling is performed.

How walls are insulated is discussed in another article of our project. Consider the most important information about the insulation process, the properties of the available heat-insulating materials and instructions for performing the relevant work aimed at insulating the ceiling in the bath with your own hands.

1. There are basically three reasons for the escape of such precious heat from the room:
2. The presence of cracks in the ceiling structures;
3. The transfer of heat to cold objects of the environment;
4. The passage of heated air masses through different kind homogeneous/monolithic barriers.

To eliminate all of the above reasons, the bath is insulated by installing a multilayer structure on the floor, walls and ceiling, which includes, in addition to all other elements, an insulating layer thermal insulation material. For a bath, the ceiling insulation is very important, and if you do not lay such material or lay it incorrectly, on the ceiling, or rather, on its floors (the material for which maple timber can serve), condensation will begin to fall out, it will take much more time to warm up the room , and this, in turn, will cause an increase in the cost of consumed energy resources.

Note: the laying of each subsequent insulating layer must be carried out perpendicular to the previous one. This technique allows you to make the design as reliable as possible and practically avoid deformation changes in the future.

Depending on the design feature buildings, baths are divided into 2 groups: baths with an attic / attic and baths without them. Considering the question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, we will not describe this process for baths with an attic / attic floor because of its high cost. Regardless of whether the bath has a second floor or an attic or there is none, each of them requires high-quality and competent insulation from the inside, and the question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath is the same for any bath configurations.

Insulation and other materials

Regardless of the design of the bath roof, in addition to the installation of insulating material, vapor barrier of the bath ceiling is also performed.

The vapor barrier layer will not allow the formed wet vapors to settle on the surface of the heat-insulating material.

This is all the more important, since the evaporation of vapors on the heat insulator, followed by their condensation, provokes the accumulation of moisture from the inside of the insulation, and this has the worst possible effect on its service life and its quality.

Nowadays, it is possible to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands using relatively budget materials. The same applies to vapor barriers. Here short list how to insulate the ceiling in the bath:

• Wax paper;
• Clay (clay 20 mm layer is superimposed on the ceiling boards from the roof side);
• Mineral wool;
• Compacted cardboard, pre-impregnated with natural drying oil;
• Aluminum foil.

Now, let's take a brief look at the process of insulating a bath ceiling with two of the above materials.

Clay

Clay, as a heater, has such undeniable advantages as ease of preparation and installation of the material, low cost (or even free of charge, since clay can be found in nature), low thermal conductivity, absolute unattractiveness to insects and rodents, high environmental friendliness.

As you can see, clay itself is already an excellent insulation for baths and saunas. And in combination with sawdust, which gives it porosity, while lowering the already very low thermal conductivity, clay takes the lead in all respects among inexpensive heaters.

Red clay is considered the most popular as a heater.

It is plastic and hygroscopic. The laying of the clay-sawdust mixture itself takes very, very little time. However, such a moistened material needs to dry for about a month at a positive temperature.

To prepare a mixture of clay with sawdust, it is better to take the latter of coniferous or oak species, and before use they must certainly be thoroughly dried and treated with a flame retardant and antiseptic.

The resulting clay mortar should have a thick consistency. The approximate ratio of sawdust and clay should be 3:2.

When the ceiling of the bath is insulated with clay and sawdust, it should be done in the following order:

1. Using a construction stapler, waterproofing is attached to the ceiling ceiling;
2. On top of the waterproofing with a step of 300-400 millimeters, laths with a width of about 100 millimeters are stuffed;
3. Clay is moistened and mixed with processed oak or coniferous sawdust. Mixing is carried out until a homogeneous consistency is obtained.
4. The resulting mixture is placed in the cells formed by the slats until they are completely filled, leveled with a spatula and left until completely dry.

Mineral wool

Quite often, those who plan to insulate a bath room have a question: how to insulate the bath ceiling with mineral wool? Let's look at this question and try to answer it.

Mineral wool having a thickness of up to 50-100 millimeters is produced in rolls. Installation is carried out by unwinding these rolls, cutting sheets of mineral wool with an ordinary knife into segments of the required length and laying the resulting pieces in place of insulation. If the thickness of mineral wool is more than 100 millimeters, it is produced in the format of mats, which, if necessary, are simply cut off and placed in spacers between rafters, joists or batten elements. In this case, it is quite possible to do without any additional fasteners. Mineral wool, among other things, is an excellent insulation for a frame bath.

If you can’t do without additional fastening, it can be done either with a lath crate, or with a strong nylon mesh, or with the help of a construction stapler.

You can, of course, use basalt insulation for a bath, which is based on either basalt wool or the so-called basalt cardboard. However, the efficiency of these materials is an order of magnitude lower than that of mineral wool. Basalt wool is also less environmentally friendly.

If you need a better and more reliable vapor barrier for a bath, then here you should pay attention to modern factory materials. Here are the most popular options for such vapor barriers:

• Polyethylene film. Excellent waterproofing insulation for a bath, in the absence of other available options also used as a vapor barrier. In order for the condensate to be able to evaporate, when fixing the plastic film, it is imperative to allow ventilation gaps;
• Steam insulation with villi. The basis of such an insulator is the same polyethylene film. The purpose of the villi is to retain condensed moisture. This has a good effect not on the level of the heat-insulating effect;
• Membrane vapor barrier.

In addition to the above, there are universal and therefore more expensive hydro vapor barriers. Although the cost of these materials is an order of magnitude higher, however, insulating the ceiling of the steam room with them will provide more effective protection.

Film waterproofing is most appropriate when we insulate the ceiling with expanded clay or mineral wool. The film laid on top of these heaters takes on the function of a moisture-proof coating, providing high level protection against moisture coming from the roof.

Using mineral foil wool as an insulating material, the installation of a ceiling in a bath can be performed without laying a vapor and waterproofing layer.

When deciding how to insulate a bath ceiling, floor or walls, you should definitely remember about fire safety. So, the distance between the chimney and flammable elements (for example, a crate made of wooden slats) should be at least 200-300 millimeters.

As an additional measure to prevent fire, a box should be built around the chimney pipe made of metal or some other non-combustible material to your taste. The internal cavity of the box must be filled with expanded clay or other non-combustible material.

With regards to the thickness of the thermal insulation layer: here everything is decided by climatic conditions on the one hand and the characteristics of the insulation material itself on the other. On average, this parameter varies within 150-200 millimeters, and varies according to the above two factors.

How to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath, or, more precisely, how to do it? There are several answers to this difficult but very important question. You can use the "old-fashioned" methods, which involve the use of practically free, that is, improvised (or pasture - clay, red moss, and so on) materials. But it is possible to use the achievements of our time, which are more effective, but also more expensive.

So that insulating the ceiling of the bath with your own hands does not become an impossible task for you due to ignorance, we suggest considering a short list of insulation materials.

The so-called "folk" thermal insulation. A very outdated but still occasionally used method, in which warming the ceiling of the bath with clay and sawdust or with dry leaves, not from the inside, but from the outside, it is performed in the following sequence: crumpled clay is laid with a layer of 2-2.5 centimeters; the previous layer is covered with sawdust and it is they who play the role of the main heat insulator. This method is quite popular, because using such, in fact, improvised materials, it allows you to perform insulation very, very inexpensively.

The thickness of the sawdust layer is selected depending on the climatic conditions at the location of the bath itself (usually it is 100-150 millimeters); The topmost layer of such a "sandwich" is a 100-150 mm mound of dry earth. Efficiency this method quite high and not expensive. However, its service life is an order of magnitude inferior to other available methods. It is for this reason that the insulation of the bath ceiling with sawdust will need to be repeated every few years.

Ceiling insulation in the bath cold roof expanded clay. Expanded clay is not a very expensive material with which you can easily insulate the ceiling of the bath with your own hands. It is especially convenient in cases where the bath ceiling is insulated with a large coverage area, and in order to save the money spent, you have to decide how to fill the ceiling in the bath. In order to achieve an improved effect, the thickness of the expanded clay layer should be 300 millimeters or more. Can it be made thinner? This is acceptable, but then the warming effect will not be so noticeable. Only then the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay will be complete.

Expanded clay It is not quite friendly to moisture, so serious waterproofing is necessary for it. For proper protection of the expanded clay layer from moisture, it is recommended to lay a pair of waterproofing layers on top of it.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof with mineral wool. Being a very popular heater for the sauna steam room, mineral wool also has a number of clearly undeniable advantages. Fireproof, durable, high thermal insulation properties- it, like no other material, is better suited for insulating the ceiling, for example, in a rest room, in a steam room or other bath room. That is why the insulation of the ceiling in the mineral wool bath is the most commonly used move.

Insulation with growing aerated concrete. Probably the most modern and so far rarely used method of ceiling insulation, for example, in a steam room, dressing room, etc. It has a low thermal conductivity, is relatively inexpensive, environmentally absolutely safe, fire resistant and durable, this material is also very quickly installed, thereby reducing the time for performing insulation work.

Each of the above methods, which performs the insulation of the bath ceiling with your own hands from the inside, requires separate instruction on execution. It is not possible within the scope of this publication to provide such instructions. Therefore, the choice of how best to insulate the ceiling in the bath is left to the reader.

This, as well as other methods with detailed instructions will be devoted to a separate article or several of those. It was then that we will try to fully reveal the topic and answer to the end the question of how to insulate the ceiling of the bath and the better to insulate the ceiling of the bath.

It's cold outside, but it's warm inside. The temperature in the steam room is under 80 °. How to create optimal conditions heat conservation, because it is known that hot air tends to rise. Up to 40% of heat escapes through the ceiling, so its insulation is a fundamental moment in the construction of an effective bath. Especially important is the arrangement of the ceiling of the steam room and the sealing of the chimney.

The choice of insulation

What is important to consider when insulating the ceilings of the bath. It is necessary to exclude the presence of cracks and gaps, perform vapor barrier, choose the right material for thermal insulation. All this is necessary to create a reliable barrier to heat loss and prevent the formation of condensate.

Important! The condensate formed in the insulation layer destroys it, significantly reduces its service life, the quality of the interior finish and the service life of the entire structure. Vapor barrier materials well-chosen will exclude similar phenomena. Insulation is useless without proper ventilation and vapor barrier.

The use of natural insulation is the main condition for safety, environmental safety, not to mention the discomfort that occurs when chemicals evaporate.

Styrofoam, polystyrenes, mineral wool based on phenols are not suitable for warming the bath. But mineral wool made from dolomite fibers is quite suitable for these purposes. We choose from those materials that can withstand heating within 100 °. The best choice:

• glass wool, without any impurities, pure glass wool is not suitable, the one used in heating mains;
• vermiculite, made as a result of high-temperature processing of crystals;
• felt, natural not synthetic without binding threads, its resistance to high temperatures record;
• expanded clay, bulk material, its disadvantage is its impressive weight.
• linen material is one of the most environmentally friendly, is a natural antiseptic, has a special strength, is durable;
• ecowool, a material made from recycled cellulose and wood fiber, to which antiseptic materials are added, is absolutely non-flammable.
• basalt wool, it does not burn, goes to the chimney lining.

The list will not be complete without mentioning the good old grandfather methods, including:

• sawdust, clean without debris and rot, medium-sized fractions, in order to exclude rotting, it is useful to mix them with ash;
• clay, environmentally friendly, rot-proof mixed with straw perfect option thermal insulation, one of the shortcomings - perhaps in a month, one and a half, cracks may form in it, and the coating will have to be restored;
• moss, an ideal option, except that it is difficult to find such material.

It is better to build a bath with an attic space, it is convenient to mount the ceiling cake from below and above, available natural ventilation finally summer net the best room for drying brooms, in a bath with flat roof deprived of all this.

Important for installation brick bath should be given Special attention sealing beams, no matter how the cake is mounted ceiling, residual condensation will occur, in order to save the beams, good sealing is needed.

Ceiling technology

A large temperature difference requires a certain thickness of the insulation layer. For middle lane the thickness of glass wool, vermiculite should be at least 35 cm, expanded clay should be poured 60 cm thick, optimum thickness felt 45 cm.

It is necessary to lay out the insulation in a continuous layer, excluding gaps, poorly joined edges. Compliance with the recommendations on the thickness of the insulation layer will lead to the fact that the logs will be completely closed, which is correct.

How to make a ceiling pie.

1. First, a vapor barrier is laid, its layer should hug the logs, it is better to fasten the fabric with a stapler, it is impossible to completely close the logs. Foil or material with a foil layer is attached to the ceiling boards, here it is important to monitor the overlap of 10 cm, which is fixed aluminum tape.
2. A heater is placed on top of the vapor barrier layer, as a rule, the gaps between the logs are closed with layers of material,
3. Next, they put waterproofing and if walking is supposed to attic space, arrange a flooring, a counter-lattice with a ventilation gap.

The ceiling is then sheathed with clapboard, the boards are attached to the logs.

Important! Glass wool is covered with a special membrane to prevent the scattering of fibers, expanded clay is covered with newspapers and sprinkled with sand on top so that cold bridges do not form inside.

The technology of warming guarantees the duration of the operation of the bath, reduces fuel consumption, reduces the time of heating, heating the premises.

ceiling in the steam room

The principle of arranging the ceiling in the steam room is the same.

1. Lay down first aluminum foil, you can not use foil materials based on foamed polypropylene.
2. Then you should carefully seal all the joints, eliminate the existing gaps, tape will help.
3. The next element of insulation is basalt wool, glass wool, which is laid in three layers between the beams.
4. then steam protection is laid, it absorbs moisture, does not let it through the insulation layer
5. The last step will be the installation of boards from the side of the attic and lining with clapboard, which should be sewn onto the rails, which will provide a gap of 5-10 cm for air exchange.

Important! It is good to check how well the ceiling is insulated in winter. Climbing up to the attic you can see trickles warm air. Check these places. The absence of such streams indicates high-quality insulation ceiling and, accordingly, the work of the steam room.

When designing a bath, it will be useful to lay the height of the ceilings from 2.1 to 2.3 meters. it optimal height the higher, the more difficult it is to warm up and keep warm.

How to properly isolate the space around the pipe?

wooden ceilings are highly flammable, so the pipe should be placed between the beams, preferably in the middle. Good to know the rules fire safety, proceeding to the arrangement of the chimney. The distance from the pipe to the tree must be at least 380mm.

So that the chimney opening is not too large, an element such as a ceiling assembly is used, which creates an air gap between heat-insulating material and iron pipes.

Next, a heat-reflecting screen is installed, this is a stainless steel sheet, in the inner part of which there is a layer of refractory insulation, stone basalt wool. All this looks like a box around the pipe. They make a box of non-combustible materials, heat-resistant magnesite plates.

After installing the box, the space around the chimney is filled basalt wool. Then they mount the sandwich pipe, the part of the chimney that goes to the roof.

Important! Use a sandwich tube equipped with a spark arrestor. This design is somewhat more expensive, but it guarantees a wooden bath from a fire.

In general, from the pipe to the insulation should be at least 25 cm. You can close the gaps with clay or cement, because tightness is the main condition for heat saving.