Scheme of shelves in the sauna dimensions. Shelves in the bath: dimensions in height and width for different types of baths and design options. The specifics of applying protective compounds

On this page, we decided to collect all the information about how bath shelves are arranged, what varieties - not only popular, but also rare - can be found in modern baths.

Correct design

And how many people who put up a bathhouse in their yard think that the correct design of the shelves is associated primarily with features of soaring, as well as the regime of moisture and temperature characteristic of a particular national bathing tradition?

We dare to assure you - everything is exactly so, so let's distinguish between the arrangement of shelves in a bathhouse and a sauna.

For Finnish sauna

Finns soar sitting. What happens in a dry air bath? Oxygenated cold air is fed down to a red-hot metal stove, where it almost instantly heats up and rises. The ventilation device in the sauna is such that the air exchange occurs quite quickly - the entire volume changes up to 5 times per hour! Wherein the hottest air, as it should be, is at the top.

Shelves in the bath: a design typical of a sauna

Steaming in such a sauna occurs without the participation of steam 🙂 Humidity usually does not exceed 5-15%, but the temperature is around 90 degrees. In such an atmosphere, you can only sweat- the body tries to cope with overheating by sweating, which cools it. Of course, it is better to sweat while sitting.

That's why the Finns do enough narrow shelves - their width does not exceed 50-60 cm, which is convenient for a person to sit, and the design of the shelves in the bath is most often three-tiered, so that lovers high temperature could climb higher, where it is highest of all.

For Russian steam room

In the Russian steam room, the principles are completely different. The temperature is lower, and the steam is much larger (at 45-60 degrees, humidity is 50-60%). Precisely due to the special superheated steam, the structure of which is different from what you see above a boiling kettle, soaring occurs.

Superheated steam from the stones rises to the ceiling, forming the so-called "steam cake". From there it is scooped up with a broom and lowered onto the body. It's best when the one being steamed lies on the shelf, and another person soars it.

So, the Russian shelves in the bath are designed in such a way that the person who is steamed on them can lie, and the one who soars does not experience inconvenience.

IMPORTANT! The sailor needs the following: so that the broom does not touch the ceiling, so that it is not necessary to bend over (the body must be held vertically), so that the height of the shelf is sufficient.

Therefore, with regard to Russian shelves in the bath, their correct design involves one or two levels (but not three!), A large width, height, with the calculation of the comfort of the steamer.

For example, in the video of the Kuban Bath Association, Konstantin Bely says that the height of the shelf should be 10 centimeters higher than the level of the stove. Here is the video:

Of course, it is better to build on the growth of a particular person. And if you need to focus on several people, then take the arithmetic mean (the sum of all measured heights divided by the number of people).

One way or another, this value is somewhere in the region of 70-90 cm. As mentioned above, it is quite acceptable if there is single-tier shelves. Footstools are usually attached to it.

Scheme

It's time to get down to specifics. So, what, in fact, does any shelf consist of? It contains two main structural element: frame and flooring.

Above it was said about the fundamental difference between the width of the shelves and the number of tiers for the Russian and Finnish steam rooms, so we will give the diagrams of the shelves in the bath for each case. Since the difference is only in the frame, flooring describe it separately same for both types.

An important point about any frame: among experienced bath attendants, disputes do not subside over whether the frame can be attached directly to the wall or must it be freestanding?

The main argument of those in favor of a free-standing framework is that when attached to the wall, the joint begins to rot soon.

However, we know a compromise option, in which the wall is mounted with a gap - put bushings, for example, ceramic, which are used for the same separation of thermal insulation plates from the wall.

Frame in the Finnish sauna

The frame of the shelves in the Finnish bath looks like this:

As you can see, in this case, it is proposed to build on the specific height of the ceiling in the steam room, because the countdown is from it. At the same time, it is this height that suggests a very common mixed form- this is when both steam is catching up and the temperature is high, as in a dry-air bath.

CAREFULLY! The combination of high temperature and humidity is difficult for the human cardiovascular system!

Generally, the schemes of the shelves in the bath can be easily distinguished precisely by their height and width. The height of the step, if it is intended for sitting, will be about 45 cm. And for the approach of the steamer, you need 70-90 cm. Therefore, either one of the steps will be narrow / folding / portable, or this is a sauna option that is not intended to one person was lying, and the other was hovering over him.

Another characteristic a sign of the sauna regiment in the bath: the frame is sewn in height with clapboard. This is done because the Finns do not need to leave space for the free setting of the soaring legs - his feet with toes go inward a little, under the shelves, while achieving the very correct vertical position of the soaring body.

BY THE WAY! It is widely believed that if you sew up the shelves with clapboard in height, this is essential will reduce the volume of the steam room, which heats the stove (respectively, it will increase its power). There is truth in this, but only in the case of hermetic clogging of the space under the shelves. And this is bad - how to ventilate? And if you ventilate, then there will be no “volume reduction”.

The scheme in the Russian bath

frame

There is one interesting point here: two-tier Russian regiments may look like three-tier ones! This is due to the deceptive footstool, which is placed at the high shelf. This bench can be mobile or stationary. But mobile is better.

An ordinary two-tier shelf consists of an upper shelf intended for soaring and a lower one, on which the soaring person stands with his feet. At other times, the lower one can be used as a seat.

Below we give a few more options for the shelves in the bath, showing their possible location (having one stationary shelf and two sliding, or all three sliding, we get the following options):

Flooring

Let's briefly talk about flooring. Despite the fact that the most common option is a machined rail laid along or across the long side of the seat with a smooth edge and gap from 1 to 5 cm between the elements, you can find options without any gaps at all or made from boards with irregular geometry (unedged sanded board or slab).

A log shelf looks exotic, but how long will it dry out?

ADVICE! Whatever you are guided by when choosing a flooring design, take into account the fact that you will dry it after each procedure. And the gaps are not made for the sake of beauty, but for the sake of ventilation and speeding up the drying process.

railing

Useful, though not required element for regiments. Generally, railing in a steam room are used in two cases: as oven guard- so that visitors do not accidentally approach it at a dangerous distance and do not touch it. This applies to couples metal furnaces without lining with brick or stone.

The second use case for railings is regimental equipment. They create additional comfort for those who soar during ascent and descent, and also make staying on the top shelf safer. And also, if they are placed parallel to the shelf, then sitting on the shelf you can put your feet on them, this adds convenience and your legs get bigger. warm air and couple.

These railings look like this:

Regiment options

In addition to the above variations in height and number of tiers, the location of the shelves relative to the walls can also be varied. Possibly parallel and corner arrangement, as well as several options for fastening the deck, which make it removable, folding or retractable. Let's take a look at all of the above.

Angular

A commonly used design. Allows perpendicular alignment at least one seating and one reclining place.

When you watch videos that describe the installation of a corner shelf frame in a bath, pay attention to how the joint is created in each case.

Useful video

The options may be different, but we draw your attention to the fact that flooring can be done either cut at 45 degrees, which gives a beautiful angular combination of boards, but is quite demanding on accuracy. Or you can not bother and do it simply - bring the rails of one seat to the wall, and bring the perpendicular ones to the intersection. It turns out like this like you put one bench on top of another.

However, today's masters do just about anything. Both for the flooring and for the parts that cover the height of the shelf, they have relatively complex patterns that play on, say, different colour wood. You can try something similar if you wish.

hinged

One of the ways to free up space, make it easier to clean the floor after procedures, speed up the drying of the shelves is to make the seats folding. At the same time, they will inevitably be attached to metal hinges.

IMPORTANT! Since in this embodiment it is impossible to refuse metal parts, it is necessary to make sure that they are somehow closed, that is, to make it impossible for them to contact the human body.

We can offer you some own options of how it would be possible to implement a folding shelf in the bath. Look at the picture - you see that the legs can also be fixed with the help of loops, you just need to cover the edge with a ledge. Such a shelf rises up and is fixed on the wall in one way or another, for example, with a latch or a hook somewhere on the edge.

retractable

"Retractable" can be understood in different ways. A bench that can be pulled out and pushed under the top shelf can also be considered as such. Moreover, we would say that this is even the most acceptable option. (See diagrams above)

The fact is that it is still not worth using any materials other than wood in the steam room. And if you came up with the idea to make guides, for example, in the form of a regular connection " tenon-groove"with free sliding, then discard it immediately 🙂

The fact is that the tree in the steam room will not have the same dimensions all the time. It either swells with moisture, then shrinks back. Therefore, wooden guides are not a solution. Although ... here the linden changes its dimensions to a minimum when wet. But she has another drawback - it is too soft breed.

The solution could be furniture rail. Finding it and adapting it for the promotion of the regiment is not an easy task. If only because you need stainless and at the same time durable metal. You are still going to sit on this shelf, right?

ON A NOTE! Therefore, if you take duralumin, then do not forget to ask the seller about how much weight this rail is designed for.

Of course, there are rails for safes, and they may be suitable for your task. But think for a second: maybe you shouldn't fence the garden when the simplest option will require neither searches, nor the strain of engineering thought. Is it enough just to make a bench, a bench that would fit under the top shelf, and then just push it in and out at will?

Folding

Shelves in the bath folding happens only if the bath itself is mobile. And yes, it is quite possible to buy such a structure in any online store selling goods for mobile baths. There are both one- and two-level models.

Is it possible to put something like this in stationary bath? And everything happens. For example, someone puts mobile bath on the site for a while, until he puts the normal one. So it kind of turns into a stationary one.

On the other hand there is no reason to buy folding shelves in regular bath - they will cost more than usual from improvised lumber.

However, it is possible that someone will call folding shelves something from what we just described above - folding or retractable variety. In this case, everything has already been said, it remains only to apply.

Removable

But this variety is common, she is loved by many bath attendants. Because the removable shelves in the bath provide both normal drying (and hence the durability of the shelves), and all the same freeing up space for cleaning. In general, a practical thing.

In order to prevent the removable floor from moving, grooves or projections are usually made in the frame and fastening of the floor, which fix the floor. Let's take the following diagram as an example:

ATTENTION! Fixation should be thought out in such a way that displacement becomes impossible both in the longitudinal and in the transverse direction.

Without stands / without legs

Well, here whoever calls it - “without racks”, “without legs” - but the meaning is the same. Supposed fixing the shelf on a triangular bracket, which in this case is better to do also from wood.

In another article on our website, we already talked about how to make a shop in a similar way. The technology for making a shelf in a bath without racks is no different from making a bench. You may need to slightly adjust the drawings to fit your dimensions. Here are the drawings, and if you need instructions, take a look.

Sketches of brackets for the shelf “without legs”

Concluding the review, we turn to readers who have experience in choosing or self-manufacturing regiments - comment on which design you consider the most and least successful. Reasoned opinions are welcome!

In contact with

First of all, it should be noted that the shelves in the Russian bath are called differently. I have seen such accents: shelves, shelves, shelves, shelves. Personally, I prefer to say regiments.

As I wrote in my article "", most of the baths in our country are far from Russian baths, but are essentially dry-air steam rooms or saunas. Therefore, the shelves in these baths have a device far from the regiments of the Russian bath. In most baths, shelves are arranged in steps at two or three levels. The width of the shelves usually does not exceed 500-600mm. This design of the shelves is due to the fact that in saunas and dry-air steam rooms it is not customary to lie on the shelves, but it is customary to sit. In this article, I will only talk about the correct shelves in the Russian bath. And I highly do not recommend the widespread shelves in the form of steps at several levels in steam Russian baths.

In the steam room of the Russian bath, on the contrary, it is customary to lie down, and not sit. Moreover, the width of the shelves is usually selected from 850mm to 1200mm. On such wide shelves you can lie spread out, and not huddle in narrow spaces. In the Russian bath, it makes no sense to climb under the ceiling, as in saunas or dry-air steam rooms. Because the principle of soaring in Russian baths is completely different. Therefore, shelves in such baths are located on one, maximum two, levels.

What parameters should a canopy in a steam room in a Russian bath have? First of all, it should be wide from 850mm to 1200mm. This allows you to comfortably sit on it lying down. Highly recommend, don't skimp on shelf width! The length of the shelf should be at least 2 m, and preferably 2.2-2.5 m. An adult should fit freely on it lying down, without resting his feet against the wall.

The thickness of the shelf board is selected according to the principle "the thicker the better." Optimal Thickness it's 60-80mm. This is significantly thicker than the standard shelf boards sold around the world. And they are sold because in saunas and dry-air steam rooms the thickness of the shelf board does not have special significance. But in the Russian bath, the thickness of the shelf has great importance. The thicker the canopy, the more heat it can accumulate, and then gently give it to the person lying on it. There is no need to lay anything on the shelves in the steam room of the Russian bath. The shelves are always pleasantly warm, but not scalding, like everyone else. wooden surfaces in the steam rooms of the Russian bath.

Highly important point is the shelf height. Many people think that it is better to make the canopy higher. But this is far from always correct and justified. The height of the shelf is measured from the surface on which the bather stands. If he stands directly on the floor of the steam room, then from the floor. If a wooden ladder is provided in the steam room, then from the surface of the ladder. I consider the correct height of the shelf to be the one that will correspond to the height from the floor or a wooden ladder to the level of the knuckles of the palm gathered into a fist with the bather's hand completely lowered. Usually it is 70-90 cm, depending on the height of the bather. Many novice lovers of the Russian bath are afraid of such a small height of the shelf from the floor. But you don't have to be afraid. Do not think that there will be no steam on such a low shelf. AT right bath, with the right bather, he will bring steam to the steamer as much as necessary. And it's very good that the steamer is below the level of the steam cake under the ceiling. An indescribable pleasure when the steamer is in a soft zone with a relatively low temperature and where it is easy to breathe, and the steamer wraps him in a blanket of velvety and fluffy steam. When you need steam, you can catch up more, you can completely remove all the steam from the steaming zone. Such contrasts and different methods of working with the steam of good bathers make vaping an unforgettable experience. If the canopy is made higher than the size recommended by me, then it will be extremely difficult for the bather to soar with high quality. You will have to stretch to get all parts of the body with a broom, hold your hands high with brooms, and this contributes to the rapid fatigue of the bather and poor-quality steaming. Correct Height the shelf allows the steamer to correctly move the brooms without overloading the muscles of the arms and back and, accordingly, get less tired.

The canopy should be located so that it is comfortable for the bather to soar on it, there is free access along the entire length of the shelf and the distance from it should be at least 500mm.

Shelves are made from hardwood. The most popular tree for a regiment in the Russian bath is linden and aspen. It is impossible to make shelves from the newfangled now abash. This tree has a porous structure and practically does not heat up, which is contrary to the quality standards of the Russian bath. Also, wood is not used on the shelves. conifers due to the risk of resin emission.

Many people ask what protective compounds should cover the shelves. Personally, I am against any coating of shelves in the Russian bath, especially newfangled impregnations for saunas. The tree must be alive and this is very important. Yes, the shelves darken quickly. But this is a noble color, indicating that they really use the bathhouse, and do not go there like a museum. Maximum, you can cover the shelves with hot natural linseed oil. The technology of such impregnation can be found on the Internet. This coating needs to be updated periodically. But I personally do not see any sense in it, especially if the bath is a family one.

It is very important to keep the shelves clean. Otherwise, they will settle in the steam room unpleasant odors from which it will then be difficult to get rid of. If we are talking not about a public, but about a family bath, I strongly do not recommend washing the shelves with any chemical detergents. After each bath, it is enough to thoroughly wipe the shelves with a specially allocated terry towel soaked in hot water. To wash the shelves efficiently, it is necessary to press the towel firmly enough during wiping and wipe with wide sweeping movements. Attention! This procedure must be carried out after each bath! Don't be lazy. It is enough not to wash the shelves a couple of times and bad smell in the steam room is provided. It is better to wash the shelves while they are still warm.

Many
they sew how to properly make a support frame for shelves, what kind of wood to make it from, whether to make supports on the floor. I answer. The frame of the shelves can be made from any wood, you can rest on the floor, you need to design the framedo what is safer and more convenient. There are no universal and correct frame schemes. Some make folding shelves, for ease of cleaning or saving space in the steam room. Many people ask whether it is necessary to sew up the frame of the shelves from below, thinking that this reduces the cubic capacity of the steam room and it is easier to warm it up. I am against sheathing a frame for shelves from below with a board. This makes cleaning under the shelves impossible. And if we consider that lying on the shelves we emit sweat that drips onto the floor and accumulates there, it is necessary to wash the floors under the shelves after each bath.

It is very important to follow a number of rules when designing a shelf in terms of its adjoining to the walls of the steam room. There must be a gap of 3-5 cm between the wall and the shelf board. In no case should the shelf board be adjacent to the wall closely! This contributes to the rapid decay of the wall in the area of ​​​​the junction of the shelf. Also, there must be a gap of 3-5 cm between the boards of the shelf.

The supporting frame of the shelf and the ends of the boards of the shelf itself should in no case be adjacent to the wall. If the shelf boards are 60mm or more thick, they can be fixed to the wall without any frame or floor supports. Boards of this thickness do not bend under the weight of steamers. A support bar is attached to the wall and shelf boards are already attached to it. Since the support bar cannot be fixed close to the wall, it is fixed through spacers. Spacers are usually metal washers or nuts. If a support frame is used for a shelf, then its racks and supporting surfaces are also attached to the wall through spacers. This is necessary so that the air passes freely through the structure of the shelf and the wall, and the wood of the wall at the junction of the shelf does not rot.

The shelf board is attached to the supporting surface only from below! You should not screw the self-tapping screw through the shelf board, as its head can heat up and create unpleasant sensations upon contact with the body of the steamers.

Location
The division of regiments in the steam room is most often done with the letter "G". A working canopy is selected, on which they will soar. This is usually the longest shelf with the most convenient approach to it for the bather. The second canopy is usually calledheating. There, during soaring, you can place another person who will warm up while the steamer is working with another visitor steam room on the working shelf. The heating canopy can be made higher than the working one. But this is not always advisable, especially if space in the steam room does not allow. If there is enough space in the steam roomoh, then you can organize auxiliary shelves for tubs and brooms, children's, lower shelves, and so on. If the shelves are arranged in two tiers, then steps or stable benches should be provided for the convenience of climbing and descending from them.

And here we are ripe to write a step-by-step guide for those who want to make shelves in the bath with their own hands. This is not so easy, because one has to take into account a variety of experiences, often contradictory in specific points. We will highlight these points in particular so that you get the opportunity to make an independent decision in the manufacture of the shelf.

By the way, part of the material will not be repeated, as you can find it in expanded form on other pages of our site (follow the links in the text). This will allow more useful to tell in a step-by-step guide.

Device, manufacture and equipment

To begin with, after all, a little theory and even linguistics. It's not certain that you'll read x, so let's repeat:

ON A NOTE! It's best to say: singular“Shelves”, not “shelf” and not “canopy” (the shelf is in our room, but the canopy above the bed), in the plural - “shelves” (shelves in the closet, shelves - in the steam room, but in the army).

Shelf device can be described as a wooden platform, lounger or even a conditional perch, consisting of one or more tiers, which, in turn, may consist of separate parts , but can form monolithic fixed structure.

Furthermore, parts can be both separate tiers and their components. In the latter case, it is one-piece frame and removable decks.

The simplest shelves is a high sunbed with a step for easy climbing on it. An excellent solution for lovers of the Russian bath, who are visited by professional bathers.

But prevalence saunas in Russia led to the fact that the shelves in the bathhouse, in the steam room began to be made multi-tiered, under the ceiling and sew up tightly the vertical parts of the "steps". All this is correct and appropriate, but only for the Finnish bath.

This is not the place and time to discuss the advantage (or loss) of the bath option, in which the owner is trying to combine two modes, for this you can read something from where a lot was said about the modes and their compatibility. But, as a fact, many make shelves in the bath with their own hands for both types.

IMPORTANT! In the Russian bath, the preferred position is lying down, but you can also sit. In the sauna, it is preferable to sit higher and sweat profusely, but it is not forbidden to lie down.

Of course, the difference between a sunbed and a seat is only in width. You can’t lie down on a narrow shelf, on a too wide one it’s inconvenient to lean on the back, it turns out to be far away.

Arrangement of shelves in the bath: it is more convenient to lie on this

And sit on such

As for how to build shelves in the bath with your own hands, more on this later, but now we can say that the work is not too difficult, especially if you don't bother, put everything on self-tapping screws with a screwdriver and not worry too much about the future, in which the metal joints in the tree are sure to loosen.

BY THE WAY! Here is an important point of self-determination - to fix to the wall or to make a separate structure? The price of the issue is rot, which forms in a poorly drying joint with the wall.

Dimensions

Despite the fact that we have already published about how to make the right shelves in the bath, picking up optimal size, let's briefly go through the most significant points.

So, the dimensions of the shelf in width and height are determined solely its type of use.

If it is intended exclusively for sitting, then you will have enough width from 45 to 60 cm, with a height of 35 to 50 cm.

If it is supposed to steam on the shelf lying, the minimum width will be 60 cm, and there is simply no maximum- a sunbed can be a meter or two wide. The best thing is to measure the desired width of the material at hand and lie down on these boards or something similar, trying on for convenience.

Ordinary Russian shelf- 70-90 cm wide. In height - 80-110 cm. And you can measure by the knuckle thumb or the first phalanx of the middle one (from them to the floor or the plane of the lower tier, on which the pair will stand).

What to do better: choose the material

What is better to do? It is clear that from a tree, to which, in fact, there is no alternative, but which species are most suitable? We, therefore, now very briefly.

conifers categorically should not be used in a sauna, where temperatures are high, in a Russian bath - if desired, in mixed modes it is also not worth it at all.

Cheap aspen and linden- worthy competitors of expensive abasha, because in addition to low thermal conductivity, it does not differ high resistance to the action of water, fungi, etc.

You can experiment with others. deciduous, taking into account their thermal conductivity (the higher the density, the higher the thermal conductivity - the easiest way to determine "by eye"), resistance to decay and other characteristics. For example, oak dense, but does not deteriorate in water. Like larch, which, by the way, does not emit resin.

How to independently and correctly make shelves in the steam room

Well, we got to the instructions. We bring to your attention three options how to make shelves in the bath in the steam room with your own hands - corner, folding and removable.

Angular: Walkthrough

So, corner shelf bath with your own hands. This means that you will stretch it along two adjacent walls. At what length - you decide according to the dimensions of the steam room. As you understand, we cannot try on your specifics, so we will give one example of how to make shelves in the bath, and you will act by analogy.

The first thing to do is to build drawing. To do this, we measure the room and determine the size and number of tiers of the future shelf.

In our case, the shelves corner, three-tier, with dimensions of 280 by 220 cm. It has three tiers on the short side, and two on the longer side. The first two tiers are the L-shaped structure itself, one-piece, to be done. Fans of the Russian bath may not bother about the third tier - it is needed only in the sauna.

The figure shows a plan with a top view and with drawings of supports on one side and on the other side of the L-shaped structure. Your task is to make a drawing yourself according to the dimensions of your steam room. Focus on the following:

ATTENTION! Tongue-and-groove joints add rigidity. It is enough to make a cut in the beam 20 mm deep to make the connection much stronger. After the spike-groove is additionally attached to the screws.

Depth grooves everywhere 20 mm. Used board 75 by 50 mm, processed, that is, its linear dimensions could decrease during the alignment process.

Please note that the design is being done autonomous from the wall. When installing in a steam room, you do not need to mount the shelf in the bath on the wall, they will stand autonomously, only pointwise fastened to the wall with corners with a gap of 1 cm.

The first stage after drawing the drawing is the calculation of the amount of material. Assume that there will be 5 large supports, 4 small ones. Or proceed from the ratio of one support to half a meter.

The next step is the preparation of lumber. On the frame you can even get cheap spruce or pine. For flooring better linden.

IMPORTANT! Sawing lumber is best done as follows: first the longest parts, then those that are shorter. And to take, on the contrary, first from the shortest available pieces. You can get confused and find out in the store how long the timber is sold in order to calculate with the least waste output.

When the parts are ready, grooves are made in them. For this it is worth making pattern and go through it with a milling cutter in the right places. Ideally, the inserted part should go in quite easily, but sit tight so that the joint can be lifted by hand and it does not fall apart.

ADVICE! Distinguish between details where defects are acceptable and where they are unacceptable. It is clear that the first refers to parts invisible from the outside, and the second - to the seats, flooring, lining.

It is better to take galvanized, not rusty

The bars inserted into the groove are attached with outside self-tapping screws - directly on the connection. Fastening the remaining parts of the shelves in the bath is done end to end and also for self-tapping screws. However, some may prefer corners.

The finished support should be sanded, after which it is covered everywhere impregnation for saunas (you can read more about impregnations suitable for steam rooms). It is advisable to do this: soaked, dried, slightly sanded, soaked again.

Note that for now, we are just collecting supports, each separately. We have not yet reached how to assemble the shelves, because we will do it directly in the bath. In the meantime, work can be carried out in the workshop outside.

The next stage is frame assembly without flooring. You will need a plumb line and a level so that everything is level. In this case, the supports are assembled on connecting crossbars, which will later become a support for the flooring.

Difficult moment - jibs, which are needed for future flooring at the junction of two shelves at an angle of 90 degrees. Through this jib from below, the boards chamfered at 45 degrees should later be fastened to the shelves in the bath.

The finished frame can be sheathed with boards, but first it should be installed in the bath, the corners should be installed between the wall and the structure. Only then can you start flooring equipment.

The first step is to mount visors- these are boards that will be under the knee of the person sitting on the shelf. The visor is made from an ordinary linden board rounded on both sides for a shelf, which is cut off on one side to flat surface. Then, from below, a bar 40 mm long is glued to such a board, also straight on one side and rounded on the other. See the picture below.

In the same picture you see chamfered after the visor has dried. It should be removed so that there is nothing digging under the knees.

Next, you screw all the other floorboards onto the screws from below, not forgetting about gaps, which are best exposed using inserts of the desired thickness. All flooring boards are also prepared in advance - they are sawn, sanded, impregnated with the same composition for baths or saunas - as described above.

Since in this design each tier forms a kind of niche, you can safely sew gaps between layers- this is done with a clapboard or shelf board.

IMPORTANT! Do not forget about the gaps, and leave them wider in the vertical panels so that the air passes through more easily, so that there are no "pockets" where the steam does not enter, and therefore they do not warm up.

hinged

The only thing difference folding shelf from the design described above is that you you will not screw the flooring with screws to the transverse bars of the frame.

Folding shelf

Instead, the drop shelf deck will be assembled as a stand-alone structure - boards are attached to transverse bars that are not connected to the frame. Since protrusions are formed in this case, it is easiest to do in the frame under them grooves, which, moreover, will increase the rigidity of the structure and will prevent its displacement.

ADVICE! For a bath, it is better to take stainless parts - both hinges and screws.

Below we give a drawing of fastening the hinges to the timber and the flooring. With this method of installation, you have no chance of getting burned on the heated hinges, unless, of course, you stick your hands yourself 🙂

We hope the instructions are clear: connections flooring boards are made between the crossbars of the frame, they are cut out under them grooves- a milling cutter, an electric jigsaw, whatever is available. Screwed to the wall beam. Beam and flooring are connected loops.

IMPORTANT! Think about how exactly the shelves will hold upright. It's easiest to do either hook, or some other simple device for this.

how to build removable wooden shelves

So removable shelves the matter is even simpler - see the manual above, but do not put it on hinges. A removable shelf is a flooring that not connected to the frame. The grooves in the frame for the crossbars that hold the flooring together further help hold the structure in place.

However, if you have single wall-mounted triangular supports instead of a floor-mounted frame, you can use the following scheme:

Installation - how to assemble the frame and how to fix the boards

We were based, among other things, in creating instructions for making shelves in a bathhouse on the video of the famous master Ivan Baev. For a better understanding of the process, we recommend watching the videos themselves:

Some more helpful videos

Here we make shelves in the bath with our own hands according to Finnish patterns:

This video shows how to make very budget folding shelves with your own hands:

And if you have read everything and still tend to believe that direct mounting on the wall is not so scary, then you can learn from the next video useful information about such shelves in the bath: how to mount the structure directly on the wall:

Now you know a lot about the shelves in the bath: what to make better, what designs are suitable for different types, and most importantly, you have detailed guide how to do it yourself nice shelves. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments.

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A bath in the country is the same essential attribute and a source of pride for our person on vacation as a barbecue. You can build it yourself, insert windows and doors made with your own hands, put a wooden font. And the last chord will be the manufacture of bath furniture.

Why bathroom furniture is always wooden

The Russian bath has always been built of wood, but now, with a wide variety of materials, it can be any: brick, foam concrete, expanded clay blocks. The main thing is to provide in it good thermal insulation and moisture resistance. Doors and a font can be made of glass, plastic, concrete, but the furniture is only wooden. Because only this material perceives long jumps in temperature and humidity without burning the body.

A bath can be built from a variety of materials, but the furniture for it must be wooden.

Types of bath furniture

Depending on the place of use, there are different types furniture:

The choice of wood for bathroom furniture

The material should be easy to process and maintain, moisture resistant, not prone to cracking, not releasing resin. And if conifers are suitable for the walls and doors of a Russian steam room, in which the temperature is lower than in a sauna, then only hardwoods are suitable for benches and a shelf:

• rare exotic breeds wood - Malaysian red meranti, African oak, Canadian hemlock fir, South American cedrella, bamboo, West African ofram - are suitable for a bath, but are rare and expensive, therefore they are most often used for headrests;
• linden is ideal for humid and hot rooms - a light, elastic, very fragrant material, releases phytohormones, promotes strong sweating, is easy to process, heats up little and does not darken from long-term use;
• aspen - soft and pliable for processing, smells pleasantly of something bitter when exposed to high temperatures, resistant to moisture, does not deform, but has a fibrous structure that cannot be smoothed out by any planer;
• birch - a tree that releases mass useful substances, but inconvenient for processing, poorly resists moisture and cracks, and also slowly heats up and cools down, darkens with long use;
• oak is dense and durable, does not warp or crack, perfectly resists moisture and temperature, but is expensive and gets very hot;
• maple - dense tree, but needs to be dried for a long time before use;
• poplar is easy to process, beautiful and inexpensive, but short-lived;
• cedar is a high-quality and useful wood species; when heated, it oozes little resin due to its high density, highly resistant to mold, but expensive and difficult to process;
• pine - beautiful soft durable tree conifers, the bath smells good essential oil, but when heated, it releases resin, although not in such quantities as larch and cedar, therefore it is suitable only for furniture for the dressing room and rest rooms.

Photo gallery: materials for bath furniture

Pine emits resin, so it is undesirable to make shelves from it Cedar oozes a little resin when heated, but with good workmanship, it can be used to make bath furniture, such as headrests. Poplar wood is easy to process, but short-lived Maple needs high-quality and long drying before use Oak furniture does not warp or crack, but it gets very hot Birch darkens with prolonged use Aspen is resistant to moisture and temperature changes, does not deform Linden - best material for furniture to be used in damp and hot rooms Meranti - wood of deciduous trees from the genus Shorea - beautiful, high-quality, but expensive material

Regiment construction

This type of furniture has many names, such as beds or benches. It can be high or low, as well as wide or narrow, semicircular, occupying all the walls of the bath or only one.

Design, functions and types of bath shelves

According to the number of steps, products can be of two types.

The device of the shelf is simple. It is made of a frame and narrow, smoothly planed rails - flooring.

Preparation for work

Shelf construction includes preliminary calculations, drawing drawings, purchasing wood and fittings, preparing tools.

Shelf size calculation

There are design traditions that allow you to calculate minimum size shelf for a person of average height and build. It is customary to increase the estimated dimensions to comfortable.

The width of the furniture also depends on the area of ​​the bath. In a small steam room, often the only way to put a normal shelf is to make it narrow.

The height of the shelf is a variable value. It depends on the height of the steam room and your habits. It is calculated from the ceiling, not from the floor: the minimum distance is 110 cm, the average is 120 cm. You won't overheat on the top bunk, you'll have plenty of room to sit and lie down with your feet up, and you'll have plenty of room to swing when brooming. The lower tier is traditionally located no lower than 30 cm from the floor of the steam room. Accordingly, the middle tier (if any) is located in the middle. If the shelves allow you to make many tiers, then their usual height is 40–60 cm.

It is advisable to make the lower tier of the shelf not stationary, but in the form of an ordinary bench. Then you can move and take it out to clean the floor under the structure.

Material selection and calculation

Since the shelves periodically experience changes in temperature and humidity, optimal material for its construction, in terms of cost and performance, there will be a linden. The supports can be made from pine, and the flooring can only be made from linden. Having determined the height and width of the product, we draw a drawing of the steam room and choose the optimal configuration and location of the shelf. We settled on a simple stepped narrow structure in two tiers. If necessary, it will be possible to complete a portable bench and use it as a lower tier.

We draw a diagram on graph paper with the specified dimensions and detailing of each board.

Table: dimensions of each part of the shelf

The width of the lime board for decking should ideally be 4 times the thickness so that the board dries well. But we can't take more thin board, it will bend. According to the board thickness of 25 mm, we estimate the number of supports. It turns out that three jumpers will be sufficient. The gaps between the linden boards are about 1 cm, so that the water drains and is good ventilation for timely drying.

Table: materials for building a pine and linden shelf

Tools

For work you will need:

• electric saw or jigsaw;
• grinder with discs for metal;
• planer and jointer;
• drill with drills for metal and wood and a set of grinding nozzles;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• square;
• pliers;
• a hammer;
• hydraulic level.

Photo gallery: tools for making a shelf

It is important to adhere to the dimensions according to the drawing so that the structure is stable and reliable. A circular saw is used to cut lumber A hydraulic level with a long hose length will help control the horizontal and vertical fastening of parts. Holes for fasteners drilled with a drill An electric planer will help achieve the required roughness of wooden parts Pliers, square, hammer - the tools necessary for most construction and repair work With the help of a grinder metal corner cut into parts according to the shelf drawing To bring the beam in ideal condition, use jointer

Shelf assembly

When the drawings and materials are ready, we get to work:

1. We cut all the harvested lumber and the corner into parts according to the drawing using an electric saw and a grinder.
2. We mount the frame on the corners with self-tapping screws.
3. We process the frame and flooring boards with impregnation, let it dry.

   The assembled karks must be treated with impregnation

4. We collect the flooring, cut it exactly to size. We drill holes in the boards and supports.
5. We sheathe the frame with a linden board according to the drawing using wooden pins. If this is not possible, then the heads of the self-tapping screws must be sunk into the board, then closing the holes with wooden plugs, otherwise burns may occur during the operation of the furniture.
6. On the legs of the frame, you need to strengthen the rubber anti-slip pads. Our shelf is ready.

Video: how to make a simple bath shelf

Headrest manufacturing

These products usually lie on the lower tier or in the dressing room. They are taken with them to the bath and placed under the head like a pillow, and they should not be hot at this moment. Headrests are made from different materials and differ in shape.

Photo gallery: types of headrests for a bath

The anatomical elastic headrest is comfortable for a person Headrests are most often made from linden wood. The simplest oak headrest is easy to make yourself Anatomical headrest allows you to lie in the bath with your head up A funny headrest made of pine under the neck will make your stay in the bathhouse even more pleasant. The use of a massage headrest made of cedar will help to enhance the beneficial effect of bath procedures. For comfortable lying in the bath, you can use a bamboo wicker headrest

The choice of material and design of the headrest

For headrests, it is better to choose linden - cheap, easy to process and high-quality material. Even a beginner will be able to make a model that is light in weight, convenient in shape and easy to manufacture with his own hands. The most difficult action will be cutting curved surfaces with a jigsaw.

The dimensions should be such that the product fits on the shelf with a margin, is small and convenient for putting under the head, for example, 340x353 mm.

Table: headrest materials

Headrest assembly step by step

For work, you will need the same tools as for making a shelf.

1. We draw the side supports on the scraps of the board and cut them out with an electric jigsaw according to the scheme.
2. We fix them in a clamp, process grinding wheels until complete smoothness.
3. We cover with impregnation for shelves and walls and dry.
4. Then we cut the strips and process their edges. We also cover them with impregnation for shelves and walls and dry them.

   Planks also need to be coated with impregnation for shelves and walls and dried

5. Preparing pins. We count and check for smoothness.
6. We make non-through holes with a diameter of 6 mm on the underside of the planks with a wood drill.
7. We try on the slats to the support. We drill the same holes on the upper side of the supports according to the scheme, but not through.
8. We insert the pins there, knock them out with a hammer. They should enter with effort and sit tight.
9. We connect the strips with support on the pins. We start with the center bar to set the correct distance. We knock them on top with a felt hammer so as not to damage the appearance of the tree, or with an ordinary hammer through a rag.
10. The headrest is ready. Connections will not be visible from either the top or bottom side.

How to make a bath bench

The dressing room needs a complete set of furniture, including benches and benches for sitting and relaxing. But in the bath, they have two specific functions: they are used as the lower tier or for sitting next to the shelf. It is very convenient to keep bowls and brooms on the bench.

Photo gallery: product design and drawing

It is easy to make a concave bench for a bath on your own Making a bench frame is easier than making shelves Not the easiest but interesting option benches - design with a concave seat

Tools and materials

The tools needed are the same as for previous products. Additionally, you will need a flexible ruler to draw a curve on the seat supports. The principles of manufacturing and subsequent processing of materials also do not differ.

Table: bench materials

Manufacturing procedure

We start work immediately after the preparation of all materials.

1. We cut boards and timber according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
2. We draw a curve on all supports for the seat: we retreat on them from the bottom edge of the board 75 mm from the edge and 45 mm in the middle, connect the curve with a flexible plastic ruler.
3. We cut out the supports with an electric jigsaw.
4. We remove chamfers on the boards intended for the seat, the lower sides and the timber.
5. We process all the details with a grinding wheel using a drill.
6. Assemble the seat box. All self-tapping screws are recessed.
7. We insert the rest of the supports into it and fix them.
8. We mount the boards on all six supports. Do not forget to drill holes for deep recessing of the self-tapping screws into the seat. We close the holes with wooden plugs.
9. Then, in the resulting structure, we put the legs from the timber and fix it with self-tapping screws.
10. We strengthen them with lower tsargs with four sides by sinking self-tapping screws. We make it easier for ourselves by placing a piece of wood under each side. The bench is ready.

Video: do-it-yourself bath bench

Fans of the ecological lifestyle claim that wooden surfaces in the bath are not only unnecessary, but also harmful: impregnation, paints and varnishes, when heated, give a sharp chemical smell and emit harmful volatile substances. This is true if you use conventional means. But if you leave the tree in its original form, after a while the furniture, headrests, wall and ceiling sheathing will darken, become porous, dirt will eat into them, and a fungus will grow in micropores and cracks.

In the village baths, wood used to be looked after in the same way as the floors in the hut: they were regularly scraped with a knife, removing the top, dirty layer. But this is a very laborious task, which does not give a full result.

For a modern busy person who does not want to use impregnation, there are only two ways:

If you don’t want to treat wood with special impregnations, every two to three years you will have to completely change the furniture, walls and ceiling sheathing

The use of impregnations

The only full-fledged way out is to use modern compositions that can withstand high temperature and humidity without harm to humans, protecting against fungus and rot even at the construction stage. They are different. Those that are suitable for the ceiling can not always be used for furniture.

Manufacturers of varnishes and paints produce many such products - Senezh, Rogneda, Dulux, Tikkurila, etc. They are of two types: for surfaces that we do not touch with the body (ceiling) and others. The requirements for the latter are much higher, since they should not form a burning varnish film. For bath furniture, products with water-repellent natural substances (paraffin, wax, oil) are used, which perfectly protect furniture and are harmless to humans.

Table: purpose and features of wood impregnations

The specifics of applying protective compounds

The selected tool must be used correctly.

1. The first application is made immediately after the manufacture of furniture on a dry and clean surface or even on wooden blanks.
2. The product must be evenly distributed with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Due to the thick consistency, the spray gun will not work.
3. After the first layer has dried, those places that will be subjected to maximum stress - seats, headrests, walls in the shelf area - need to be treated again.
A habitable dressing room makes the bath cozy Furniture for a simple rustic log bath is easy to do with your own hands A large bath for a lot of people is equipped with three-tier shelves Curved lines make bath furniture stylish and original For convenience, you can equip the shelves with lighting Polati in a Russian bath can be made of any width

You can make bath furniture with your own hands. The described recommendations and instructions will make the process quick and easy.

The level of comfort in the steam room largely depends on functional characteristics shelf - its height, design features and material of manufacture. Convenient shelves for a bath, you can do it yourself, if you follow the basic rules.

Choosing the Right Material

For the manufacture of shelves and benches, it is recommended to use hardwood, and here's why: when it is heated, resin is not released, which can burn and stick to the skin.

It is important to choose wood that is resistant to high temperatures and moisture, in which case the shelves can last long years. But the key criterion is the thermal conductivity of the material:

Wood with low thermal conductivity - the best choice, since such a shelf does not overheat and does not burn the skin, allowing the soaring person to lie directly on the boards without the use of a sheet.

The most popular types of wood for the manufacture of the shelf are aspen, linden and African oak abash.

Aspen is the most affordable material

In addition to the low price, aspen has certain healing properties. Traditionally, aspen is considered a tree that absorbs "negative energy".

Shelves made of aspen are quite durable and practical to use. But carefully select aspen - without internal rot.

Linden - the best in terms of price / quality ratio

It is ideal for making shelves and benches, and here's why:

• This wood is easy to process, looks aesthetically pleasing, exudes a light pleasant aroma when heated, creating a microclimate that is favorable for health.
• Even at high temperatures, the wood does not burn, it does not leave sweat stains.
• Linden shelves for a bath are quite durable - the material does not crack or rot over time, but it can darken.

Abash (African oak) - good, but expensive

It has high resistance to temperature and moisture, resistance to stress. Due to the low thermal conductivity, the abash heats up very slowly, so you can use the shelf without fear at any temperature in the steam room.

On sale you can find light and dark abasha wood. During operation, the material retains its original appearance, if it is pre-treated. But abash oak is an expensive material, alas.

The correct dimensions of the bath shelf

Often many attendants make shelves in several tiers, because "it's beautiful" or seen from others. But two or three tiered shelves with steps came from saunas, where they sit, not lie.

In a Russian bath, such options are not suitable - they interfere with the bather. It is desirable to carry out shelves in one level.

To make comfortable seats for sitting and lying, you should focus on the following proportions:

The height of the shelf in the Russian bath

The height of the shelf should correspond to the height of the soaring. So that the steamer does not have to bend down or, on the contrary, work with his hands at an uncomfortable height, the shelves should be located at the level of the thumb bone of the lowered hand. On average, this is a height of 70-80 cm.

It is advisable to leave a distance of at least 110 cm between the shelf and the ceiling of the steam room, in this case you can not only lie on the shelf, but also sit comfortably.

Length and width

The shelf should be comfortable for lying, so the length is at least 220 cm, so as not to rest your head against the wall and your legs do not hang down. Width - about 90 cm.

Shelves and benches in the steam room are located along the walls without windows, for the entire width of the wall. The number of shelves depends on the size of the steam room. If space permits, the width of the main shelf can be made for two - these will already be wards.

If space is limited, the “compartment” option is used - the bench and shelves are adjacent to the same wall, the shelf leans back and is fixed for the convenience of sitting on the bench. If necessary, the shelves return to their original position. Another option: the lower bench is retractable, and the shelves are fixed permanently.

Important design features of the shelf

1. It is preferable to install structures that are open from the bottom so that they are well ventilated from below, do not interfere with the ventilation of the room and make it easy to clean the floor.
2. In order for water to drain faster from the shelf, it is performed with a slight slope.
3. Between the floor and the vertical racks of the shelf, plastic or dense rubber linings should be mounted - this will prevent the decay of the wood of the racks and extend the life of the structure.
4. Bath shelves should look aesthetically pleasing, have a smooth surface and rounded corners of the boards. Structural elements must be tightly adjusted to each other so that the shelves do not stagger or creak.

Methods for fastening boards

Particular attention is paid to fastening the shelf boards and other external elements - it is important to exclude the possibility of accidental contact with the metal of screws or nails while using the steam room.

There are several mounting methods:

• The easiest and fastest way is to deeply sink the heads of self-tapping screws into the wood.
• Self-tapping screws can be attached to the back of the structures.
• The most time-consuming, but the most safe and environmentally friendly option is the use of oak wedges, which are hammered into pre-made holes.

If desired, a back is mounted on the wall to which the shelf is attached - usually these are three boards stuffed onto vertical racks of bars. The back allows you to comfortably sit on a shelf without fear of burning your back on the lining of the steam room. The back is made from the same material as the shelves. Between the boards should leave gaps for ventilation.

To increase comfort on the end wall, you can fill the blocks to support the legs: it is recommended that you lie on the shelf and raise your legs above your head so that they warm up faster.

The process of manufacturing a shelf with a retractable bench-lounger

This option is suitable for those who have a small steam room. Steam room height 220 cm, width 180 cm, length 210 cm. compact system shelves fit on an area of ​​​​110x210x220 cm. The rest of the space is for the stove and for the steamer.

Costs For this shelf with a lounger, 16 lime boards of 210 cm each, bars for the frame, self-tapping screws, corners, impregnation for Tikkurila wood were used - all together costing about 6,000 rubles. Everything is made by hand.

The top shelf is mounted at a height of 113 cm. It is 69 cm wide and 210 cm long. The pull-out lounger is 49 cm wide and also takes up wall-to-wall space. The distance between the shelf and the lounger is 49 cm, thanks to which it is convenient to use the lounger as a footstool while sitting on the shelf.

Since the upper stationary shelf is located much higher than required by the standards, for the convenience of the soaring person, a bench of 3 boards, 36 cm wide, was additionally made. The distance between it and the shelf is 70 cm - this is quite a comfortable value.

Shelves for a steam room consist of two main elements: a supporting structure made of timber and flooring. The support is made of two bearing beams: they are installed along the width of the shelf and connected to each other by jumpers with a step of 50 cm:

One of the beams and the extreme transverse beams are attached to the corresponding walls by the entire plane, the second beam - by the ends. To fix the jumpers, grooves of the required size are made in the beams.

To support the second beam, in this case, special racks were used, based on the wall. To ensure a tight fit, the ends of the racks are sawn under required angle. The structure is fastened with screws, two fasteners for each rack.

Thin, well-planed boards with rounded edges are stuffed onto the frame made. Between the boards, gaps 1-2 cm wide should be left to ensure rapid drainage of water and necessary ventilation when drying.

The frame was covered with boards, leaving gaps for water to drain (there is also a bench in the photo)

It is important to use boards whose width does not exceed four times their thickness - such material dries well and is not subject to cracking during operation.

In order to save space in the project under consideration, the width of the lounger is 69 cm, but it is recommended to make shelves at least 90 cm wide, for which you will need to use 7 boards.

The principle of manufacturing a retractable lounger is the same as that of a shelf - the frame consists of two longitudinal bars with transverse struts. 5 boards were used for flooring.

Retractable device

The design of the retractable "walking" mechanism requires special attention. How to make a folding shelf so that the lower lounger slides under the upper one? Bars are mounted to the end walls of the steam room. To them, and to the sides of the lounger with inside, axles are attached, which are worn wooden planks- levers. At the slats, the corners should be filed (at least in the upper part) so that they do not interfere with the operation of the mechanism.

The thickness of the bars fixed on the wall must correspond to the thickness of the end elements of the lounger. In order for the planks to sit tightly on the axis and move without play, wooden washers are installed.

The mechanism allows you to effortlessly push the sunbed to a strictly defined distance, which in this case is 0.8 of the lever length. The lounger rests on legs in a fully extended or fully retracted position.

Such retractable design most suitable for steam rooms, in which the shelves and the lounger in length completely occupy the wall.

Protective wood treatment

Before using the steam room, it is necessary to process the wood from which the shelves are made. Frequent contact with hot moist air leads to the rapid destruction of the material, deterioration of its appearance. Competent prevention will help to avoid the appearance of mold and rot.

Attention! In no case should the shelf be used for processing chemicals, including the usual drying oil and varnish. Otherwise, when the temperature in the room rises, substances that have an unpleasant pungent odor and can cause an allergic reaction will be intensively released into the air.

It is recommended to use an impregnation specially designed for bath shelves and benches. It is made on the basis of natural oils and allows you to create protective film on the outer surface wooden structures without worsening natural properties wood. Such a product is odorless and does not emit harmful fumes when heated.

Cheaper and more affordable option - food linseed oil which can be purchased at the grocery store. Hot oil is applied with a brush to the wood, it is recommended to rub it well.

It is advisable to process the shelves by warming up the stove in the steam room well - the oil polymerizes under the influence of high temperature. With another method of processing, cold oil is rubbed in, and then the surface is heated with a building hair dryer.