Encyclopedia of fire safety

How is the attic built? Do-it-yourself attic - we will give ourselves additional square meters of living space! Design and materials

Attic device in individual house is a fairly common occurrence. This method of construction allows you to reduce the cost per square meter and create a rather interesting room in the under-roof space. To perform the device correctly attic floor, it is necessary to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.

What is an attic

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof, which is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. At the same time, the height of the outer walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.

A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during construction and during the operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.

An attic is an under-roof space that can be equipped as a separate room for living.

In operation, cost savings can be as follows:

  1. Decreased space to be heated, consequently, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item in the cost of utilities.
  2. After the construction is completed, the house must be measured by specialists from the BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is on the basis of the area values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in it that taxes are charged and utility bills are paid (provided that they are connected to centralized systems and there are no metering devices, which is now practically not found). The area of ​​the attic floor is included in the area of ​​the whole house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8 depending on the height outer wall and the angle of inclination of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.

Preparatory stage

It is worth starting construction with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is gable, but it is also possible to use a hip four-pitched roof. double slope design allows you to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.


In the case of using a hip to illuminate the premises, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option can become more time consuming in terms of installing roof elements and designing interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (especially the savings will be noticeable in a brick house, where the cost of materials and the installation of wall fences themselves is quite high).

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. Earlier it was already said about the choice of the type of rafter system at home (gable, hip), after which it will be necessary to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken structure has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.

At the design stage, determine optimal slope roofs. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the roofing material used, which imposes limitations.

Before you make an attic, you must also calculate all of it load-bearing elements for strength and bending, choose the composition of the roof cake, perform thermotechnical calculations and decide on materials. More on this later.

Main bearing elements

The design includes the following components:

  1. rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight roofing and wall on the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, step and design load. A professional can correctly perform a detailed calculation. For private construction, approximate values ​​\u200b\u200bcan be used, while it is best to provide a small margin.
  2. Narozhniki- these are rafter legs, which, on one or both sides, are supported by slanted ones. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
  3. Slanted legs- the design used in hip roof. This element serves as a support for the sprigs. The cross section is taken depending on the load and the span, in any case it should be larger than that of the rafter legs.
  4. Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the stops and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, evenly distributing it. It will be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Mounting of the Mauerlat is not carried out during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case we play the upper crown of the walls or the strapping in its role.
  5. Rigel- a beam, which is also a support for the rafters, but already in the upper part. The crossbar is installed in the ridge of the roof or at the break of the slope, in case of a broken structure. The cross section should be taken depending on the conditions, as a recommended value, dimensions of 200 by 200 mm can be given.
  6. Struts, racks, fightsadditional elements to unfasten elements. They are used to reduce the cross section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. At the same time, it is important to take into account the convenience of making connections.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof should be built starting from the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:

  • wood should be conifers(pine, spruce, larch);
  • material grade - first or second;
  • humidity not more than 15%.

Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.

Thermal engineering calculations


To keep the heat in the house, you will need to choose the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic rooms (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the heat-insulating layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It must always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, it will also be necessary to provide a 50 mm ventilation gap between the upper surface of the heat insulator and the roofing. If the cross section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.

Before you build a mansard roof with your own hands, you can calculate it according to heat engineering manually, guided by the Joint Venture "Thermal Protection of Buildings". But it's better to ask for help special programs. In order to correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (freely available on the network), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bconstruction of the house, the program will find the rest itself.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof differs from a conventional pitched roof only in the presence of thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. The step-by-step instructions below will allow you to correctly install the elements of the mansard roof.

The procedure is as follows:

  • fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
  • installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
  • installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
  • crate;
  • roofing;
  • warming;
  • bottom trim.

Assembling the roof frame

Installation begins with a Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:

  • on staples;
  • on studs;
  • on the anchor.



For fragile materials of the walls of the house, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, along the edge, perform monolithic belt, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. For wooden and frame houses Mauerlat is not provided.

Next, you need to install the crossbars, if any. After the supporting structures are laid, the rafter legs are laid out. The fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat can be rigid and articulated. It is better to do it with the use of cutting and fixing with metal corners on both sides.


This is a fairly old album, so nails are used as fasteners in all the drawings in it. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document is shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.

Before starting the installation of insulation in the house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative impacts environment. To do this, a moisture-windproof membrane is spread over the surface and the crate is fixed. After that, the roofing is mounted, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, for shingles you need continuous crate, which is most often made of moisture resistant plywood.


Installation of thermal insulation

To perform the insulation of the house, you need to install a heater without gaps and cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm clean. This will allow you to lay the material with a slight expansion, which will prevent cracks.

When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the plates and rafters is filled with sealant or mounting foam.

After laying the insulation, you need to fix the vapor barrier to it from below. After that, the lower crate and ceiling lining are mounted. For the attic, sheathing with two layers of drywall 12.5 mm thick along the frame is best suited, followed by finishing.

Attic called the roof, under which the living rooms are equipped. The shape of the mansard roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. Most rational decision, allowing you to get the maximum usable area of ​​\u200b\u200ba residential attic, is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

  • Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
  • Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
  • Racks - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
  • Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
  • Rigel - transverse horizontal elements that pull the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
  • Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
  • Suspension - a suspension rack that supports puffs and redistributes the load between the rafters;
  • Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing over them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
  • Filly - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross section of the roof elements is determined by calculation, the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

The device of a broken mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple one. gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume is significantly increased attic space. The lower part of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame of the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks resting on floor beams, purlins and puffs connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, to strengthen the truss and eliminate the sagging of the crossbars, hanging supports - grandmas are installed. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with racks using contractions. The elements are fastened with nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the mansard roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic device is the height of the ceilings - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the mansard roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and the construction of the roof, it is necessary to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate dimensions houses, the line of slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - mansard roof dimensions

The technology of erecting a broken mansard roof

  1. Install the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the upper beam or log serves as the Mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - structures, the Mauerlat beam is attached to studs or anchors fixed in the walls during masonry at a distance of no more than 2 meters. Align the Mauerlat along the inner plane of the wall, the wall remaining outside is later laid decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber from dry softwood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw off a bar desired length, straighten the anchor studs if necessary and lay the timber on top of them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. Dents from the studs remain on the beam, a hole of the required diameter is drilled through them. You can also mark the beam with a tape measure, but the probability of error in this case is higher. Laid on the wall roll waterproofing, you can use the usual roofing material in two layers. Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

  2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. Floor beams are placed either on top of the Mauerlat with an exit beyond the plane of the walls by 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme ones in level, then, pulling the cord, they align the intermediate ones along them. The step of the floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation boards without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are hemmed or board linings are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be processed coated waterproofing and wrapped with ruberoid. Align them in the same way.
  3. Racks are installed on the extreme floor beams. The end posts are made of timber 100x150 mm, the height and installation line of the posts is determined according to a previously prepared drawing. Racks are leveled using a level and a plumb line and temporarily fixed with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviations in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A cord is pulled between the extreme drains and the rest of the racks are set along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, for each beam. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. You should end up with two rows of uprights of the same height, running parallel to each other.

  4. Runs from a board 50x150 mm are laid and fixed on racks, runs are fixed on nails 150 mm and on corners using self-tapping screws. Crossbars from a 50x200 mm board are placed on the runs with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbar during operation, this section of the board is quite enough, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase reliability during installation, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports from the board are placed under them no thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, they are fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, before the installation of the rafters. At the same time, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the puff - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, girders and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits interior spaces attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and contractions.
  5. Installed from a board 50x150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper run, washed down the shape directly on the board and cut out. A template is applied to the run at the installation sites of the rafters, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws and on nails.

  6. To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, a template is prepared from a 25x150 mm board, applying it to the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
  7. According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is performed. The rafters are installed on the girders and connected in the upper part with the help of overhead metal plates or board scraps for self-tapping screws. In the run, the rafters rest on the cuts and are fixed on the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are fixed with the help of struts installed with the lower end on puffs. So put all the rafters. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the puff.
  8. They put struts under the lower rafters from a board of 50x150 mm, resting them with their lower oblique cut against the floor beam and fixing them on the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side of the rafter leg, nailed to one or two nails, after which a through hole is drilled and fixed to a bolt or stud . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and racks.
  9. Gables are sewn up, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in the pockets of the walls, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form a roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the Mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillies.
  10. corresponding to the type of roofing - solid or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the crate and the roofing is installed, for example,.

A sloping mansard roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in summer and provides additional thermal insulation in winter. Therefore, when sewing gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for building a mansard roof

Many modern projects private houses provide for the construction of an attic floor in a planned residential building. The attic can also be equipped in an already operated building by constructing an additional superstructure to it or by converting an unused attic space.

Extra square meters won't hurt anyone!

An attic is understood as a residential floor or a small room on the upper tiers of private houses. Such an extension makes it possible to expand the living space of housing construction without excessive costs and hassle. Especially if the attic is equipped with your own hands. This process is not as complicated and time-consuming as it may seem to novice self-taught builders. You just need to understand the technology for the construction of such extensions and clearly follow it.

Attics can have different designs. The specific version of the superstructure is selected so that it is optimally suited to the decor and design of the house. Attics are classified into different categories depending on the type of roof (broken, gable, pitched roofs) and other features. In private construction, the following types of structures are popular:

  1. 1. Single-level superstructure with a gable simple roof. In fact - the usual attic space, which is available to almost any a private house converted into a living room. It is easiest to design and make such an extension yourself. True, the resulting room will be distinguished by a low ceiling and an objectively small space.
  2. 2. Attic in one level with a gable sloping roof. A more complex and expensive construction to implement. In this case, the roof will have slopes located at different angles. The constructed premises due to this will have significantly more useful square meters.
  3. 3. A multi-level construction in which the roof stop is made using a mixed technique. It is almost impossible to design such an additional floor on your own; you have to resort to the help of specialists. And it is not easy to build a multi-level structure without the participation of professionals. Important point! Structures of this type are not built in the old house. They are initially equipped with the main building.
  4. 4. Superstructure with retractable console. Another difficult project to implement. It involves the removal of the frame outside the boundaries of the house. Such designs are suitable for old and new houses. If desired, they can be built with your own hands. But you have to work hard. Key benefits remote attics - the possibility of locating window openings vertically, a large area.

When choosing the right type of additional floor, there are many nuances to consider. We will talk more about them later.

The choice of the type of attic and the subtleties of its device is a must-read!

A private house is built on a foundation, the calculation of which is made taking into account the total weight of the building. In cases where the attic floor is planned initially (the dwelling is being built from scratch), the necessary load from it is taken into account in the project. This means that an additional tier is allowed to be built of any design and from almost all available building materials. If the calculation of the foundation was carried out without taking into account the load from the attic, the task becomes more complicated. It is necessary to choose a suitable roof structure and use materials whose weight cannot damage the main structure.

To expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling through the construction of an attic structure and at the same time not harm the house, you need to take into account the following recommendations:

  • As materials for the construction of the superstructure, light-weight building materials should be used - SIP panels, aerated concrete products, natural wood.
  • In regions with a continental climate (little snow, moderate wind throughout the year), it is allowed to build attic roofs with a slight slope. But in areas with frequent and heavy rains and snowfalls, it is better not to build such structures. Their service life will be minimal.
  • To cover the roof of the superstructure under construction, slate sheets or tiles are usually used. Any other materials with high moisture resistance, fire resistance and relatively low weight are also suitable. AT recent times attics are often covered with metal products. You can stop your choice on such coatings. But then be prepared for the fact that it will be quite cool on the attic floor in frosty weather. Will have to spend additional funds for the arrangement effective thermal insulation extensions.

The ease of use of the attic depends on the design of the staircase that will connect the superstructure with the main floors. If your house has a small area, it is most reasonable to make a ceiling staircase. It requires a minimum of free space. Unfortunately, it is not very convenient to use it. More comfortable to use is a full-fledged internal staircase. But it can be equipped exclusively in large-area dwellings.

Some opt for screw structures installed inside the house. usable space they eat less. But, again, it is inconvenient to use such staircase structures. If you do not want to clutter up the house with an easy-to-use, but occupying too much usable area design, there is one option left - an external staircase. She does not eat precious squares in the dwelling and can be of any type that suits you.

Attic floor design - standard elements and key requirements for them

The superstructure of interest to us is a conventional pitched roof, which uses the wall bearing surfaces of the house as a support. It is clear that the attic different designs have a number of differences from each other. At the same time, all described extensions include the following standard parts:

  1. 1. Roof and lathing made of wood. The latter is of great importance. It is necessary for fixing the roofing system.
  2. 2. The system of rafters. It is carried out in the form of hanging or inclined wooden beams.
  3. 3. Upper section of the roof. The so-called skating run. It is located where the rafters of the structure are joined together.
  4. 4. Special beam - Mauerlat. This element provides fastening of the rafters. It is made in the form of a bar and is fixed along the perimeter (external) of the walls of a residential building.
  5. 5. System of internal supporting parts. It is installed if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic being built is large. Internal supports ensure maximum stability of the entire structure.
  6. 6. Bevels-amplifiers. Such elements connect vertical supports, longitudinal beams and rafters directly into one whole.
  7. 7. Insulation. It is made in the form of a layered "sandwich", which includes steam, noise, heat and hydroprotective components. The insulation cake guarantees the creation of an optimal microclimate in the attic room.

The rafter system is recommended to be built from high-quality, well-dried timber with a section of 0.25x0.25 m (more massive products can also be used). If you take bars with smaller dimensions, there will be problems with laying heat-shielding materials (in most cases they are characterized by a thickness of 0.15 m and more).

Noise-proof and waterproofing layers are mounted on the outer part of the truss system.

Ventilation must be arranged between the roof and the layer of thermal insulation material. Attic insulation is best done with polystyrene foam boards. They are weakly susceptible to external natural influences, retain their initial insulating characteristics for a long time. It is undesirable to use mineral wool and other roll-type heaters in attics. Such products are quickly saturated with moisture, lose their properties, begin to exert additional pressure on the rafter system and on the whole house.

Phased construction of the superstructure - from design to interior decoration

At self erection the attic tier, it is important to act according to a strictly defined plan. The stages of manufacturing the superstructure are as follows:

  1. 1. We draw up a construction project. simple design we develop ourselves, more complex ones - with the help of design engineers. We choose the roof configuration that suits us.
  2. 2. Install Mauerlat.
  3. 3. We build the frame.
  4. 4. We mount the beams.
  5. 5. We carry out the insulation of the structure.

The project is done, all the dimensions of the attic are determined, work can begin. We take wooden beam 10x10 cm (no less). We make a power plate out of it with the required parameters and fix it around the perimeter of the walls. We fix the beam with wire twists. They must first be installed in the walls and securely fastened.

After installing the Mauerlat, we build a frame for an additional room. We use longitudinal beams and support posts of the same section. We put vertical elements at the corners of the structure. We mount bars on them every 150–200 cm. We fix all installed parts with self-tapping screws and metal corners.

Next, we tighten the racks in the upper part of the structure with a jumper made of wood. We take a building cord, check the accuracy of the geometry of the building. Then, if everything is fine, we fix the resulting structure. Now you can install the lower rafters. We need to cut the beam according to the given parameters and make grooves in the bases of the beams. We cut the upper ends of the rafters, focusing on the size of the designed angle. We install the rafters, connect them to the Mauerlat using the cut grooves.

The next step is the placement of the upper rafters. This is where you have to tinker. It is important to ensure that all corners of the structure are observed and correspond to the calculations, and the alignment of the elements is carried out as accurately as possible. If you are not confident in your construction skills, this stage of work is best done together with specialists.

After installing the rafter system, we fix a layer of vapor barrier on it (from above) and equip the crate. We construct the latter from plywood, slats or boards. We fasten them with nails suitable sizes. Nuance. In the crate, we leave free spaces in the areas where it is planned to install windows later.

Basically, the hardest part is over. We proceed to the arrangement of the insulating pie. We mount the vapor barrier from the bottom of the truss structure (from the inside), fix it with brackets using a construction stapler. On top we place a layer of heat-shielding material. Its fastening is carried out by means of another crate. The distance between its individual elements is 0.4–0.5 m. We lay a layer of moisture-proof material on top. It is desirable to use modern membrane products as vapor and water insulators. They are expensive, but the protection of the system from moisture provides a truly flawless.

Now we mount the roof on the waterproofing layer. It is difficult to give advice at this stage. The technology of laying roofing depends on what products will be used (slate, profiled sheets, tiles, and so on). It remains to install the window structures on the planned places and make inner lining constructed premises.

Most often, attic sheathing is made with plasterboard sheets or wooden clapboard. You can use other materials, it all depends on your personal preferences and, of course, on the available budget. Finishing drywall is very simple. First we will sheathe the gables and roof slopes, then the ceiling. The scheme of work is as follows:

  1. 1. We attach horizontally to the rafters wooden blocks. We maintain a step between them of about 100 cm.
  2. 2. In the space between the horizontal bars, we install bars of a more modest section.
  3. 3. We cut drywall sheets to the required dimensions.
  4. 4. Fasten pieces of finishing material.
  5. 5. We close up all the remaining gaps with putty.


Approximately in the same way we work with lining. We cut out the products, nail them to the base with nails. It is desirable to fasten hardware at the joints of the lining. In this case, the nail heads will be visually invisible. Important! After mounting each product with a level, we check the correctness of its placement. If we do not control the process, we will absolutely have a noticeable distortion at the end of the treated surface. We cover the mounted finish with varnish (apply 2-3 layers).

The attic floor is completely ready for operation. Equip in it a quiet and cozy study, a comfortable bedroom or other living room. Good luck!

Modern people try to use the area of ​​their home as efficiently as possible. Therefore, the proposal to equip additional space under the roof is always met with enthusiasm. It is much easier to plan the construction of an attic at the stage of building a house, but you can make an additional superstructure above the old building.

How to make an attic on an old house

The presence of an attic not only increases the living space, but also gives the building a colorful look.

The attic turns a country house into a fabulous building

An old house can be updated by building a superstructure in accordance with existing standards.

The attic superstructure begins with calculations of the strength of the old house

First you need to decide: can they withstand the load of the attic floor and new roof existing foundation and walls. If they have a sufficient margin of safety, then you can start remodeling the house. Otherwise, they should be strengthened.

old brick walls sometimes they seem strong, but with additional load, cracks may appear in the solution over time. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately consider their condition, and, if necessary, tie them with a rigid belt. This is done as follows:

  • metal poles with a section of 10x10 cm are inserted into the foundation with the lower edge, and connected with the armored belt of the first floor with the upper edge. Installed around the perimeter of the house every 2 meters;
  • metal fittings with a cross section of 12 mm are placed in strakes and tie the house along the walls: from the bottom of the window every 2 meters up;
  • lays over the reinforcement metal grid with a cell size of 2x2 cm, which, after completion of all work, is covered with plaster.

Strengthening the foundation is carried out by tying with a reinforcing belt from all sides.

If the old foundation cannot withstand the attic, then it must be sheathed with reinforcement

Having decided on the strengthening of the building, you can proceed to the choice of the project of the future superstructure. It should look harmonious against the background of other buildings and match the style of the whole house.

The type of mansard roof will determine the calculation of the dimensions of the inner upper room and the necessary materials for construction

There are several types of attics:

  • single-level with a gable roof - low ceilings with a small living space;

    A single-level attic with a gable roof is the simplest type of superstructure for small buildings

  • single-level with a sloping gable roof - increased interior space, but serious costs and time for construction;

    A single-level attic with a broken gable roof is usually built on a brick house

  • single-level with cantilever extensions - complex structure, allowing you to get even more space, since the attic frame extends beyond the building, and the windows are installed vertically;

    A single-level attic with cantilever extensions allows you to get a lot of internal space by increasing the upper structure

  • multi-level with mixed roof support - used in the construction of a new house, built only by specialists.

    A multi-level attic with a mixed roof support on old houses is usually not installed due to the complexity and large amount of work.

Video: converting half of the old roof into an attic - an easy way

Alteration of the roof under the attic is a relatively cheap way to increase living space. In a private house is usually placed pitched roof, so you can make an additional spacious and bright room with your own hands.

Internal wood paneling makes the attic warm and bright

And if the house is large enough in length, then the attic can turn into a real floor: with several rooms and even a balcony.

A large attic allows you to divide the area into different residential areas

Advantages of creating an attic:

  • the possibility of establishing one or more new living rooms;

    Attic with low ceilings under a gable roof it is most convenient to furnish low sunbeds

  • low costs compared to the construction of a full-fledged floor or a side extension to the house;
  • renovation of the exterior of the building;

    A house with an attic under construction always attracts the eyes of passers-by and is interested in end result

  • the opportunity to observe a beautiful view from the attic window.

    A lot passes through the windows in the attic sunlight illuminating the room all day long

However, this solution also has certain disadvantages that must also be taken into account:

  • the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling and a new roof, the installation of several double-glazed windows;
  • complexity of conducting additional heating and lighting in the upper part of the old house - will have to be combined with home wiring or use a standalone connection;

    To heat the attic with access to the balcony, you can use a potbelly stove

  • layout of a part of the home space under the stairs leading to the attic;

    The stairs leading to the attic must be fenced for safety.

  • the need to purchase special furniture for a sloping roof or purchase squat models: low cabinets, sofas and tables.

    Low furniture is best suited for attic interiors

The presence of sloping walls makes the room unusual and romantic, but with this decision you will have to take a more responsible approach to design development. You can make furniture for an inclined superstructure yourself or assemble a single complex from existing multi-level models, painting everything in one color.

Furniture that repeats the slope of the attic can be made independently

So, the main disadvantage of converting an attic into an attic is the need to invest, but it's worth it.

Building an attic will cost much less than creating an additional floor, regardless of what materials will be used to build the walls. Indeed, to create them, you will need the main material, insulation and decoration, while for the attic superstructure you only need roof insulation and a new truss system.

The superstructure is made in a symmetrical or asymmetrical shape. Internal walls are designed both inclined and vertical.

Having studied the schemes of single-level attics with different types roofs, it is easier to make a choice when planning

Alteration of the attic into an attic does not require the dismantling of all existing structures. But you need to make sure that ceiling: check its condition, reinforce it with wooden or metal beams, sheathe with a new board. Then it will be able to withstand the weight of furniture and people.

For frequent climbing to the attic, you will need to do comfortable stairs, provide for the installation of ventilation, natural and artificial lighting, perform interior decoration - all this will create a cozy and comfortable room.

The sloping roof superstructure, decorated in light colors, visually enlarges the space, while splashes of color add brightness to the interior.

When building an attic floor, the following conditions must be met:

  • rafters are made of glued timber with a thickness of at least 250 mm so that the required amount of insulation can be laid;
  • foamed polystyrene is used for insulation due to its low weight and high thermal insulation characteristics;
  • between insulation and roofing material a gap is left to allow natural ventilation;
  • a hydro- and sound-proof layer must be laid.

Alteration of the roof under the attic do it yourself

During the construction of a house, there is usually not enough money, so many refuse to build a second floor. Or another situation may arise when an old one-story house of a small area is purchased along with the site. In both cases there is affordable option increasing space for living - do-it-yourself restructuring of the attic space into an attic.

Create a project

Before starting work, you need to draw up a plan and develop a project with accurate drawings. The correct calculation will allow you to get a cozy, durable and reliable room. You can perform all the calculations yourself or entrust it to specialists.

You can draw a plan and develop a draft design yourself by studying various options on the Internet

Reinforcement of walls and foundations may be necessary in case of complete replacement rafters. If the roof is partially redone, then reinforcement may be needed only for overlapping. You also need to immediately decide what types of windows will be used in the attic: the reinforcement in the truss system will depend on this.

The location of all windows in the attic roof must be thought out in advance and this data entered into the project plan

truss system

Rafters can be layered or hanging. The former rest on the inner walls of the house or additional supports, and the latter on the outer walls.

In the attic, layered and hanging rafters are used.

Hanging rafters are best suited for the attic.

Attic with hanging rafters looks prettier and wins in the size of the internal area

The attic usually occupies the entire space of the attic, and its walls are combined with the outer ones.

The best option for creating an attic is a layered truss system.

The rafter system consists of different load-bearing bars. To understand the structure of the entire structure and build it correctly, you need to understand the purpose and operation of its individual elements.

The image of the individual elements of the truss system helps to understand the structure of the entire structure

Refurbishment of the premises

With a sufficient height of the attic, the truss system does not need to be redone. It is enough to inspect the old rafters, identify possible flaws and eliminate them.

If the truss system is in good condition, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor. Insulation is first laid between the lags, after which the surface is sheathed ordinary boards or sheets of OSB, chipboard.

The floor in the attic is insulated and covered with boards

Before laying the insulation, all necessary communications are mounted between the rafters, places are cut in the roof for installing windows. carried out before warming.

All wires and pipes of communications must be placed in special corrugations

Care must be taken to create natural ventilation under-roof space through the vents so that moisture does not accumulate inside the room.

Roof insulation

It is necessary to insulate the roof correctly and efficiently - the microclimate under the roof will depend on this. Typically, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam is used as insulation.

A thick layer of heat insulator is tightly laid and fixed between the rafters so that there are no gaps or gaps anywhere. On the upper part of the roof - between the roof and the insulation - waterproofing is mounted, then heat-insulating material is laid from the side of the room. Then from the inside the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.

For better ventilation a small distance is left between the roofing material and the insulation: this is how air circulates through the holes in the cornice and ridge. If the roof is covered wavy sheets, then the thickness of the gap should be 25 mm, but if it is a flat material, then it is necessary to bring it to 50 mm.

When creating attic thermal insulation, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of layers

When planning an ascent to the attic, you need to take care of the convenience and safety of movement. Therefore, the ladder is usually mounted inside the house. It is constructed from wood or metal: it can be either a screw or a marching structure.

The staircase to the attic can be of different types and designs, which allows it to fit into any interior.

An opening is cut in the ceiling of the first floor, which is reinforced along the perimeter with metal or wooden strapping.

The design of the stairs to the attic must be durable, reliable, safe and beautiful.

Interior decoration

For wall cladding, in most cases, gypsum boards are used, the seams between them are plastered. Wallpaper is glued on top or decorative plaster is applied. Alternative option- lining or natural wood.

If some rafters protrude through the walls into the attic, then they can be designed as decorative elements and even use it as a horizontal bar for hanging a hammock, swing, chandelier and other fixtures.

The design of the visible parts of the rafters in the interior of the attic is an interesting and creative business.

Use heavy Decoration Materials in the attic is not recommended, as they increase the load on the walls, ceiling and foundation of the building.

There are many options for interior decoration of the attic, but it is advisable to use only light materials.

To cover the floor, you can use a laminate or linoleum, and it is better to refuse tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Roof of the attic floor

The roof of a residential superstructure should consist of the following layers (in order - from the street to the interior):


Video: why and how to properly lay layers on the roof of the attic

Mansard roof calculations for a house

Determination of the total weight of the roof

To calculate total weight roofing materials, specific gravity multiply one square meter of coverage by the total area of ​​the mansard roof. To obtain the weight of one square meter, you must add the specific gravity of all the materials that make up roofing cake, and multiply it by the safety factor (1.1).

If the thickness of the crate is 25 mm, then its specific gravity is 15 kg / m 2, a 10 cm thick insulation has a specific gravity of 10 kg / m 2, and ondulin roofing material has a weight of 3 kg / m 2. It turns out: (15 + 10 + 3) x1.1 \u003d 30.8 kg / m 2.

According to existing standards, the load on the ceiling in a residential building should not exceed 50 kg / m 2.

Roof area determination

To calculate the surface of a sloping roof, you need to break it into simple shapes (square, rectangle, trapezium, etc.) and determine their area, and then add everything up. To determine the surface of a gable roof, it is necessary to multiply the length by the width, multiply the resulting value by two.

Table: determination of the attic roof area

When calculating the angle of inclination, the climatic zone in which the house is located is taken into account, and that it is convenient to move in the attic in full growth

It is also necessary to calculate the slope of the roof. Usually the angle is 45-60 degrees, but when determining it, one must take into account climate zone in which the house is located, the type of construction of the attic, snow, wind loads, architectural decoration of the house.

The greater the angle of inclination of the roof, the less will be the load on the truss system, but the consumption of materials will increase.

Calculation of the truss system

When choosing a truss system, you can stop at the following options:

  • hanging rafters;
  • oblique type;
  • skating run;
  • combined design.

If the length of the roof is more than 4.5 m, then for reinforcement can be used support runs and braces. With a length of more than 7 meters, a ridge beam is installed.

For wooden rafters, a bar with a thickness of at least 70 mm is used. The step of their installation should be 50 cm.

On a large area, it is better to fix a metal truss system: due to the increase in the distance between the rafters, the absence of spacers and struts, the weight of such a structure will be less than that of a wooden one, and the strength will increase significantly.

If the attic area is large, then it is better to install metal rafters

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To carry out the calculation, you need to know the following parameters:

  • width, thickness and pitch of the rafters;
  • distance from the edge of the roof to the rafters;
  • the size of the boards for the crate and the step between them;
  • size, type of roofing material and overlap between its sheets;
  • type of steam, hydro and thermal insulation material.

The roof is divided into simple shapes and the required amount of each of the materials is determined. For this, simple mathematical formulas are used.

The results obtained are converted into standard values: for a tree - into Cubic Meters, for roofing materials, steam, hydro and thermal insulation - in square meters. And you can go to the store.

Common Mistakes

Most often when independent calculation errors are obtained during the determination of the required amount of insulation. If the climatic conditions are severe, then its volume will have to be increased, otherwise it will not be possible to create comfortable living conditions in the attic. The insulation is laid on the floor of the house, the walls of the gable and the slopes of the roof. But everywhere the thickness of the insulation can be different.

Video: calculation of a mansard roof with diagrams and loads

The attic floor allows you to get additional living space and gives the private house a modern attractive appearance. It is not difficult to create an attic with your own hands, you just need to correctly draw up a project, perform calculations and carry out quality installation all materials. And the result will please the owners for a long time.














There is only one real opportunity inexpensively increase the living square meters of a private house. It's in attic organize an attic. In this article we will talk about how to properly build an attic so that it is inexpensive. We will analyze two options: when a house with an attic is already in operation, when a house is just being built. Consider the entire technological chain: from the choice of materials to finishing new premises.

Source homerenovates.com

Rules for organizing an attic in an old house

What is an attic. This is under the roof of the house. That is, there is nothing above it, except for the roof structure. Therefore, the attic can be organized in any attic, regardless of what type of roof it is located under. The main task is to create all the conditions for a comfortable stay in the attic room. That is, it should be not only beautiful and comfortable, but warm in winter and cool in summer, not to mention the presence of the necessary communication networks.

To make an attic on an old wooden or brick house, you need to think carefully about everything. Firstly, it is necessary to solve the issue of building a solid floor with laying floor base. Secondly, the issue of roof insulation. These are the two main tasks. After that, you can engage in the laying of heating systems, plumbing and sewerage, install air conditioning, and carry out the finishing of new premises.

Source magima.ru

Floors in the attic

If we are talking about wooden house, then the floors in it are formed by load-bearing beams from timber, on which boards are stuffed. Wooden flooring must be insulated. The same construction is often found in brick houses. But in most cases with brick buildings are used concrete plates ceilings, which are also insulated.

How to quickly make floors in the attic along the floor beams.

    On the laid beams along their lower edges, the so-called tiled bars.

    across at them stacking boards close to each other.

    Laying waterproofing film, which will perform the functions of protecting the insulation from moist air vapor emanating from the rooms of a private house.

    Between the beams on the waterproofing layer lay insulation(mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards).

    over the beams lay the vapor barrier.

    Top across installing plank floor from grooved boards. You can use plywood or OSB boards, on which the flooring (laminate, linoleum, tile, etc.) will subsequently be laid.

The main task of the manufacturer of works is to make the floor even, durable, and heat-resistant.

Source bouw.ru

If the floor of the house is reinforced concrete slabs, then the insulation is carried out in the following order. It all depends on what thermal insulation material will be used. For example, expanded clay:

    overlap leveled with concrete screed small thickness (3-5 cm);

    after drying of the latter, the entire area of ​​​​the floor base closes waterproofing film in the form of strips, which I overlap with each other with an offset of 10-15 cm and are closed with adhesive tape;

    around the perimeter of the attic stack the bars section 70x70 or 100x100 mm, they are attached to concrete floor anchors;

    in the longitudinal or transverse direction stack the same bars with a step of 1-1.5 m;

    into the resulting cellular structure expanded clay falls asleep medium or fine fraction;

    on top the crate is covered vapor barrier membrane;

    on top of the heat-insulating cake along the laid bars boarded floor or slab, sheet material.

If slabs are used as insulation thermal insulation materials, then everything is done in exactly the same way. The only thing you need to pay attention to is the tight pressing of the insulation boards to the elements of the floor crate so that there are no cold bridges.

Source goodnapolka.ru

Roof insulation

If the roof rafter system, the crate and the roofing material itself are in good technical condition, then the issue of building an attic in the country is simplified to a minimum. What do I need to do:

    first of all, all wooden elements of the roof structure processed first antiseptic composition after drying flame retardant;

    on rafter legs vapor barrier film is laid so that it exactly repeats the configuration of the rafter legs, as shown in the photo below;

    then between the rafters lay insulation, in the photo below this is also clearly visible, the main thing is the tight pressing of the material to the ends of the rafter legs;

Source roomester.ru

    over two stacked materials stretch waterproofing film;

    after which the whole structure covered with slab or sheet material, for example, it can be drywall, plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB and so on.

Source stroytvoydom.ru
On our website you can find the most . In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Construction of an attic superstructure

So, if a new house is being built or the roof of the old one does not match modern requirements operation, it is possible to build an attic superstructure, as they say, “from scratch”. What does that require. First of all, the project. You can't just buy building materials and start building. The attic is not a heavy structure, but this does not mean that it should be treated with a lesser degree of responsibility.

It is better to order the project to professionals who will take into account bearing capacity building walls, foundations and other building structures. And on the basis of this, they will create a project that will guarantee that the old or new house with an attic will serve faithfully for more than a dozen years.

Installation of the attic begins with laying the mauerlat on the walls of the house. This is a beam with a section of 150x200 or 200x200 mm. It is attached to the walls with anchors that were previously installed in the reinforcing belt. The last one is poured over outer walls private house. How it turns out in the end result is very clearly visible in the photo below.

Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Attic projects

The first construction work has been completed. It is carried out regardless of what configuration the attic was planned by the project. As mentioned above, living quarters can be organized under any roof. For example, the photo below shows an attic under a pitched roof. It would seem not quite good example, but such projects exist, which means that this confirms that you can live under the roofs of any configuration.

Source houzz.se

And yet there is one design, which is called the attic. She has a broken roof, which you will not confuse with any other.

Source favoritst.ru

Construction of a classic mansard roof

This type of roof has two slopes, divided into two parts. The first upper part is with a small angle of inclination, that is, sloping, the other lower part is with a large inclination, that is, steep. This is the main difficulty in building an attic superstructure on old house or new.

This problem is solved like this:

    The project must have exactly stated fracture site.

    It is in this place that it is laid from wall to wall roof beam. There will be two of them for each kink.

    Along every beam vertical racks are installed, which determine the useful height of the attic room. Usually it is within 2.5-3.0 m. The cross section of the beams is at least 100x100 m, the installation step is within 1.5-2.0 m. Two beams are installed along the Mauerlat between the floor beams.

    Along the top of the beams a strapping is made from a beam section 100x100 mm. Strapping is done not only around the perimeter of the installed racks, but also between them in the transverse direction. The frame of the attic was formed in the form of a box of racks.

    In the middle of the transverse elements of the upper trim install short poles, forming the upper slopes of the roof. The longer the racks, the steeper the slopes.

    Installed on racks horizontal ridge run.

    Mount rafter legs gentle slopes. With their upper edges they abut against a ridge beam, with their lower edges top harness buildings.

    form steep lower attic slopes. Rafters are also installed here, which upper edges rest on the top harness attic construction, lower in Mauerlat.

Video description

The video shows in detail how to build a classic mansard roof:

So, the frame of the attic structure is ready. It remains to form the floors of the room, conduct insulation and cover the roof with roofing material. And then move on to the finishing touches.

How to make insulated floors - has already been described above. How to insulate a mansard roof too. But there is one point here that facilitates the implementation of thermal insulation measures for the roof structure. The thing is that the roof has not yet been covered, which means that laying vapor barrier membrane it is better to spend on top of the truss system.

The photo below shows this very well:

    across the rafters install vapor barrier strips, which are attached to them with small nails or steel staples using a stapler;

    over insulation and rafters mount rails, which will perform the functions of a counter-lattice. Its task is to create a ventilated gap between the heat-insulating cake and the roofing material in order to remove moist air vapors that have leaked through the insulation;

    along the counter-lattice across the rafters lay the crate;

    carry out installation of roofing material.

Other operations: laying insulation and waterproofing is carried out from the inside of the attic.

Scheme of assembly of insulated mansard roof Source valenteshop.ru

Formation of gables

This is an important part of the design of the mansard roof. In fact, two pediments are the walls of the new premises. And they must meet the strict requirements of living rooms. It is in them that windows and doors are installed. The latter only if a balcony or terrace is attached to the attic.

With insulation, everything is simple. It's like in a frame house:

    from the outside install a vapor barrier;

    carry out outer skin leafy or panel materials: lining, plywood, OSB, etc.;

    from within lay insulation;

    close the gables waterproofing membrane;

    carry out inner lining.

Source paslaugos.lt

In principle, the attic is ready. It remains to finish the interior space. There are no strict restrictions here. The attic is a living space, so any design projects and finishing materials are used. In this case, you can build a horizontal ceiling, you can leave everything as it is, that is, with slopes going up. Everything is at the discretion of the customer. As one of the options, a project in modern style in the photo below.

Source stroyportal.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of the attic

The main advantage is to get additional residential square meters for small capital investments. The attic is a frame structure, which means it is not heavy. And if it is erected on an old house, then in most cases this does not affect the strengthening of the foundation and load-bearing walls of the building. If you think well exterior finish of the entire building, it will not be noticeable that the superstructure was built later than the main house.

As for the disadvantages, according to the method of construction, the classic mansard roof is more complicated than a single or gable roof. It uses a large number of different elements that will have to be cut, adjusted to the required dimensions, which leads to the formation a large number waste.

Video description

In the video, the specialist discusses the advantages and disadvantages of houses with attic add-ons:

Conclusion on the topic

So, we tried to deal with the construction of attics on an old house (with attic projects, indicating some important nuances of the structure). Houses with such superstructures today grow like mushrooms after rain. They are popular, they provide an opportunity to save on construction. The main thing is the project, which takes into account all the construction moments in accordance with the rules and regulations.

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